PECO N turnouts poor conductivity at the points

Now that I have converted all of my Atlas turnouts to PECO, to supposedly solve my "picking the points" derailment issues, now I am encountered poor electrical contact issues with the PECO turnouts. Although the closing spring force is better with the PWECO turnouts, several are troublesome. I have seen PECO turnout improvements identified on line and will give them a try. Anybody experiencing the same?
DMK

 

It's not just you, this is a constant bugbear on my local club's layout. Every running session starts with a few rounds of stalling at and cleaning gunked turnouts. And since they're all laid and ballasted, none of the "add a feeder wire to the bottom" solutions are terribly appealing. I wonder if there's something like No-Ox that could be applied to the point contact area to improve reliability.

 

I was thinking of first cleaning the points with a Q-tip and track cleaner, followed with a dab of dielectric grease?
DMK

 

I used to use Peco short Radius turnouts because they were pretty much the only player in that category. Was a constant problem keeping the points clean. Cleaned them with some fine emery paper and everything else in the book. The cleaning might last a day or maybe two before I was back to the same issue. Solved my problem when I built the current layout by switching to Kato who I discovered had a short Radius turnout also. There are a few still in use but on short stubs where the motive power does not have to cross. Nice turnout design by Peco but lousy metal.

 

All good points. I still prefer the PECO over Atlas.

DMK

 

You will be cleaning them as frequently as you used to clean brass track. I stopped using them, as well.

 

Don't use a Q-tip. They leave lint that easily picks up dirt and grime. Scrape the point and track edges very gently with a number 11 Xacto blade then vacuum with a cloth over the suction inlet as a filter. Besides clean it removes the corrosives that impair conductivity.

 

Isopropyl Alcohol is your friend for clean points.

 

I use mineral spirits on a micro brush. No abrasives. If you haven't ballasted yet I highly recomend the alternate wiring suggested above.

 

Alcohol is a polar solvent - see below:

From MRH forums Joe Fugate:

"Polar solvents encourage the buildup of metal oxides on the track more quickly (the "black gunk" we're all familiar with). Non-polar solvents tend to discourage micro-arcing, so the buildup of metal oxides on the track takes longer.

A very thin layer of graphite also inhibits micro-arcing and improves electrical conductivity. But the graphite needs to be very lightly applied. If you can *see* the graphite, you've applied too much and it will cause a loss of traction and inhibit conductivity."

And "It's not that we're saying polar solvents like alcohol won't work, it's that your track will stay cleaner longer when cleaned with non-polar solvents.In other words, you should find you don't need to clean your track as often with non-polar solvents (mineral spirits being a prime example of a non-polar solvent).

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/how-do-you-clean-your-turnouts-points-12208011

A polar solvent commonly used is Isopropyl AlcoholPolar solvents (less ideal for cleaning electronic contacts):

• Isopropyl alcohol
• Ethyl alcohol
• MEK
• Acetone
• Ammonia
• Water

Semi-polar solvent (better than polar solvents)

• Ethyl acetate

Non-polar solvents (best for cleaning electronic contacts)

• Kerosene
• Turpentine
• Mineral spirits
• Toluene

Bottom line, use non-polar solvents like odorless mineral spirits.

 

+1

 

The LOWER the number...the better !

 

That's some handy info. Hard pass on some of those chemicals, though! We have carbon tetrachloride at work and that stuff is nasty

I'll give mineral spirits and a bit of graphite powder a try on the club layout. Seems like that combo will last longer without re-oxidizing than the rubbing alcohol we've been using.

 

Old timers may remember that, back in the day, Wahl Clipper Oil was touted as being useful to keeping track clean. Never knew why but now we do.

 

I've been using Wahl Clipper Oil (2.1 dielectric constant) for lubing locomotives for 10 years now. Price wise between it and Labells (sp) was a big factor, I use regular WD-40 (2.4 dielectric constant) on my rails. Better conductivity and a LOT LESS 'gunk' buildup. Joe Fugates article and research was spot on. I saved the article and reread it on occasion. To each their own as the saying goes. JMO

 

Have used an old toothbrush to clean. Usually works till next setup.

 

Could you point out where to locate feeders and rail gaps when using PECO N insulfrog or electrofrog turnouts?


DMK

 

I used to have conductivity issues with my layout/Peco switches and was continuously fiddling/cleaning them thinking my layout was trash.
Then I discovered NO-OX ID A Special. One application of NO-OX to my layout track and locomotive wheels, and POOF!
No more conductivity issues. In fact, no more track cleaning. going on well over a year now.

 

Is this dielectric grease? How do you apply it?

Thanks,
DMK

 

I use a small electrical applications brush. It's simply like Vicks VapoRub. And it works.

 

To apply the No-Ox ID I just tried a friends face cleaning swab. You can get them at anyplace the sells make up. They are similar to cotton swabs but it's a short plastic handle with a tinny sponge. They're not expensive and work very well. Because it's a sponge they also scrub a little.
Females around can be very handy in different ways.