This is my last HO model I’ve picked up. Brass ATSF 2–10-2 with upgraded can motor. Will eventually get DCC and sound.
Just a little scary. It should be noted that the last car has been bad ordered. There are the remains of a placard that said, "Repair. Do not load" or something to that effect, but the next to the last car is also exhibiting some of the same behavior.
Cant tell you how many times I have seen this too. Those trucks hunting like that, and they will do it for 100's of miles at a time. Older bulkhead flats have a pension for doing the same thing. Like you say constant contact side bearings work wonders to help. You think this video looks bad, you should see a car doing it at 60MPH, they are whipping pretty good at that speed.
Picked up 6 of these hoppers, got a wicked good deal! Fun fact: My friend works at National Steelcar and had a hand in building some of the real ones!
Brand new(?) still in boxes with styrofoam side rail protection and knuckle couplers unattached for $100 apiece NO IDEA when manufactured or originally purchased . .
Designing a track can be just as relaxing & enjoyable as building one? I subbed to SCARM Model Train Layout software today but fear may 'ave taken on a nigh impossible task. I like some of the Marklin layouts and will attempt to reconstruct it close as can using Atlas 100 snap track instead? Just as getting used to how the system works one gets -> "oops, we're sorry, but you've reached your unlicensed track limit" (lol am paraphrasing) Start with this then work way up to that?? I have a line on a 9 bay Atlas roundhouse & turntable for a good price and have almost 100 rolling stock that I'll need to park somewhere . . Plan on using two 4' X 8' subfloors (one turned sideways overall 12" length X 8" left) as a base gonna be close! Wadda Ya's Think? (yea yea I know nary a thought in the "scenery dept" yet)
My inability to pass up a locomotive purchase continues. Went to the train show in Saskatoon yesterday and got a steal of a feal on this Rapido FP9A. It is used, but very lightly, if at all. No damage to any of the details, great sound, and runs like a dream. Passenger service has come to the Lestock subdivision.
It's a BEAUTY! Am slowly learning my lessons, limitations involved. My six-axle locos, while also a great deal, cannot handle anything greater than a perfectly laid 18degree radius but seems to negotiate my oddball 15d turnouts ok. lol LIKE your nice green lawn too but no roadbed? Chose the black, non-cork foam style Woodland Scenics variety it splits easily in the middle to follow turnouts quite neatly.
I do run some six axle locos, but mostly four because of the era I model. Don't look t the scenery in the top photo. That section of my layout isn't done yet. Everything there is only there so it's not bare wood. Haha
Accidental Alcohaulic Picked up this Atlas Classic RS3 for $39 at a hobby store when I was out of town this week. I had a decoder for the other RS3 I already painted for my KY&N, but it needed headlight work….. so it went into the new Lehigh & Hudson River ALCO and then promptly onto the layout. Very close to the KY&N colors, so I won’t have to do a whole lot more to this one to incorporate it into the fleet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Found a good deal on a basic, $6 soldering iron @ Harbor Freight today 'ave ya's noticed how most are now "lithium powered" and thereby cost, at best, $35.00 plus? This "batt'ify everything" revolution is outta control! Used solid, 20g nickel wire to power my new 9-bay roundhouse tracks (much easier overall than "stranded"). (ps: What's the best way to secure the stall tracks to the plastic roundhouse base? Have you tried to locally find 'Testors" tolune-based cement lately? Cannot find ANYWHERE nearby "Gorilla" warns all types are NOT GOOD "for polystyrene and/or ABS plastic" . . ) (pss: "CRC QD® Electronic Cleaner" worked great @ cleaning out over-oiled HO diesel's motor as "an alternative to CFC based cleaners . . Cost effective, plastic safe & residue free)
Are you talking about attaching metal rails to the plastic base, or attaching plastic ties to the plastic base? If you are gluing the rails to the styrene base, I would try canopy glue or maybe super glue if that doesn't work.
AYE! Found this on ebay but 'ave to figure out the table track wiring first . . nigh impossible without using reverse loop control? (see dilemma below) Suppose could use it to power the pulse switch separately as am running out of options (not to mention switch controls)! Have a line/eye on 10 boxes of 6, appear 'unused', of Atlas brass 22' radius curve track that will suit my six axle locos mucho better! (ps: it takes 8 sections to complete an 180d SCARM says redoing inner-loop would take layout off my 4' board but but . . the 'reverse-loop' control did work fine!) $41 + shipping?
Anyone an opinion on this? It's advertised as 'new' but other brands are très cher, very much more expensive. Code 100 or otherwise? Mainly used in tight, limited yard spaces . . ROCO BRASS DOUBLE SLIP #4546
About five years ago now I copy/pasted a post from somewhere on the internet, (don't remember where offhand, but I do have it saved on one of my flash drives.) The poster claimed that he treated his brass track (I think it was an oil, but not the commonly used Wahl clipper oil) with good results, which prompted me to save the brass turnouts from an old layout I demolished. I'll save a lot of money if they work OK. I'll look through my flash drives and see if I can find it.
A new-to-me GS-6 just arrived, already nicely painted in WP. When I was in n scale, WP was one of my main focuses. Now that we live in the southwest, not so much, but I still really like it. The goofy bridge is a funny story. It was a temporary bridge I made out of foam with a hot wire cutter. My wife and brother both really liked it, so they talked me into leaving it. Not exactly a western prototype bridge, but it saved me scratch building something correct and much more involved.