Ztrack is excited to announce our first ever Z scale T-Trak-Z module contest! We want to see your modules!!! Here are the rules: - Modules must be built to T-Trak-Z standards. - Modules are encouraged to have been built in 2023. - More than one module may be entered into the contest. - Photos and description of the module are required. - Contest entries are to be emailed to ztrackmagazine@gmail.com DEADLINE TO ENTER IS NOVEMBER 30TH 2023! WINNERS WILL BE NOTIFIED IN DECEMBER. GRAND PRIZE - REA Package comes with a double module with backdrop from T-Trak by Denniston, Rokuhan track, Rokuhan turnout, Archistories REA kit, accessories, and Ztrack subscription $275.00 Value! 2nd Place - Dunkirk Package comes with a single module with backdrop from T-Trak by Denniston, Rokuhan track, Rokuhan 90o crossing, Archistories Dunkirk tower kit, and Ztrack subscription $225.00 Value! 3rd Place - Farm Package comes with a single module with backdrop from T-Trak by Denniston, Rokuhan track, Archistories barn kit, Archistories split rail fence and Ztrack subscription $150.00 Value! Need a module for the contest? Contact T-Trak By Denniston at: dennind@gmail.com Now let’s see those modules!!! Rob
Oh Joy! I just happen to be starting work on a bunch of modules now that I have my layout workbench built. Although these are just the staging yard modules and won't be very detailed, the ones I do on the other side might yield a contest quality module :
My corner modules are 346mm x 300mm and the module height including the skyboard is 300mm. This module size allows the maximum radius 270mm and 245mm turns in the minimal space, and the tall skyboards are to frame in the main modules which are representing a mountainous region. I did not want to build the modules with removable skyboards, so I made them as part of the module's rear base, and cut tunnel holes that are 38mm tall and 50mm wide to accommodate long and tall cars. I had to make special track alignment fixtures for the skyboard tunnels and the 300mm module depth. I have been using Gorilla Glue Clear Grip adhesive to hold the track down. I tested it and found I can scrape up the track without damage for re-use with this adhesive. It's similar to contact cement but a bit more plastic-y than rubbery. Here is track being glued down with templates in use:
So I like to use solid copper wire for my power feeders to the tracks. Here I am using 1mm copper, and I drilled 1mm holes through the piece that is usually reserved for the Rokuhan power feeders. You can see the feeder wires sticking up still: And here they are pushed down, being soldered to the outsides of the rails. I ordered some Powerpole connectors to put on the backs of the modules, and I still have 2 more end modules to lay the Rokuhan track on yet. Then i can work on the 2 remaining Atlas Track modules, and will soon be able to run a couple trains.
Nice work as usual Mr Ray. Do you just use one pair of feeders per track for a module or do you use feeders for every section of track in that module? Or do you use one pair of feeders and solder the other track scetions together at the track joiners? Dave
I use 1 or 2 sets per module, 2 for corner modules, and one set for the straight modules if it's Rokuhan track, and one set at each end it it's flextrack. I did not solder the Rokuhan track, but I solder Atlas track.
Wired up a couple more slim yard modules today. One of them has a cutout instead of Powerpole Panel Mounts, because the panel mounts of my Lester module butt up to this module, so wires will be connected underneath: This module has space behind it so I just used the standard panel mount for connections instead of pigtail connectors: I still have 6 more modules to wire, and 2 modules to lay track, then I can make the connection cable bus, and finally run some trains. Maybe another 2 weeks of work for me.
Okay, back to the modules. Today I wired Staging Module 4. It's just 2 turnouts to give me 4 tracks. I can setup a train on each loop while trains are already running on the mainline loops: I have just been using hot glue instead of screwing in or sticking on ty-wrap mounts. I don't think the hot glue is that messy ugly for this application, and it sure is easy to use, especially when mounting the accessory power terminal strips I made. A dab of hot glue holds wires nice and clean, and it goes much faster than cable ties. Again, I used a Digitrax DS52 dual switch machine decoder, and this time I took it's power off the inner track's rails. I put a Powerpole connection on the decoder so I can unplug the decoder when running DC trains.: I still have 4 more modules to wire, and 2 modules left to apply track to, before I can run trains. Also I still have to make the power cables for 12 VDC accessory power and the track power that goes to each module. One of the end modules don't have room for bulkhead mounts so it will get the connections at the end of wires with rubber boots (Left Pile). The two on the right have the T-Trak-Z standard connectors as well as an Orange connector that goes is the space under the White Accessory power connector, and they get used for special horizon lighting between the Skyboard and the Backdrop Relief on 2 of the frontside modules that will have Atlas track. Since those are my the two remaining of four showcase modules, I am using the much finer and way more convincing Atlas Flextrack with Arizona Rock & Mineral ballast:
I wired up another module today. This module is a 245mm / 270mm radius outside corner. As you can see my corners have a skyboard attached, and the tracks go right through. This module's sides are higher on the side where the trains go through the skyboard because I am planning a tunnel going through mountainous terrain on this module: Because of the depth of the module it mates to, there is no room for the Powerpole Bulkheads, so I just put the connectors in rubber boots, and fished them out the hole in the back corner. I was going to solder feeders on the other side of the module but started thinking why bother, there are only 3 pieces of track on this module, so odds are against the loss of conductivity due to rail joiners, and if it does ever happen I can address it then. I have been dabbling with these modules for too many years without running any trains and want to get them running soon.
My last Rokuhan track module, leaving 2 modules left to lay track and wire before I can run trains: Wiring on the last module completed. Since this module connects to a 300mm deep module, there is room for the standard Powerpole Bulkhead connectors:
I’m excited to all your modules attached Robert. Feel like it’s giving you ability in a few feet to change eras or seasons instantly and seamlessly
I have not thought about how I will decorate the modules yet other than the 2 remaining foreground modules, which will be Atlas Track and of which 3 will be Lester WA, and maybe the 4th will have a main street road on it.
I like the added realisim of a road parallel to the track (for several modules, then change somehow). Most paved with some dirt ‘extensions’ here and there. The cities on the other side of the road, connected same. Empty lots too. I am planning this way for the home shelf RR and reworking the Z-Bend modules.
Have been under the weather the last few weeks but did get a single and a double drawn up and done, next are the corners. Both have the track holes cut for using either the 220mm or the 110mm track sections and will come with two track gages. Just waiting on my track order from Anthony to get here for a final test. As it is now both have the backboard as part of the back. The single will come with a second back at the 2 3/4 inches. On the double would you all rater have a bolt on backboard? As it is it cost less to have it as one piece then to do a bolt on, as would add more material and laser time. Will likely to the larger corner first or should I do the smaller one? have a show this weekend in Des Moines, so hope to have on the web site late next week if I can get boxes in time. rich
Those look nice Rich! I can't say if skyboard fixed or removable is preferred because some people would like to store them stacked and others like myself will always have a skyboard.
Hi Rich, Thanks for making these. I would prefer a removable skyboard. It makes working on scenery much easier.