Just finished a sound installation of the LokSound 58741 board into a KATO ES44AC locomotive and thought I could share a picture and video of the result. Trainboard member bkbloss originally created a thread on this decoder here, but I just wanted to keep this installation picture and video on their own. The speaker is a simple 8x12 Soberton (SP-1208), built into a 3D printed enclosure of my own design. The speaker itself is sealed to the enclosure with Lepage Fun Tak sticky putty. Note that there is NO frame or shell modification at all. The ESU sound project used in the Kato is S0523-LS5H0DCC-Diesel-GE-12-GEVO-LATE-EXH-V2-R2.esux, horn 6 (K5-HL) and bell 2 (GE M 6731022A Steel Bell 030) I initially tried it with a CUI 9x16, but the shell pinches down to just about 9.2mm at the top end of the shell, meaning that the 9mm + 0.5mm sidewalls of the enclosure would not fit. Still, this enclosure for the 8x12 has a total volume of about 700 mm³ (actual volume, minus the speaker). With the current installation, the rear headlight will not light up. At a later date I will add a tiny SMD LED to the back of the speaker enclosure, connected to the LokSound board with magnet wire. I don't have any fancy audio equipment, so this was filmed on a Nikon D500 with its onboard microphone. For comparison, I also filmed a Rapido Trains 8-40CM with its factory sound installation (also a LokSound installation) Enjoy!
Here is the STL of the speaker enclosure, if anyone is interested in printing their own. The speaker is a tight fit, it's best to slightly sand down the four edges of the speaker. I used a tiny amount of Aileen's tacky glue on the inside of the speaker box, and then sealed the top edges with Fun Tak to make it airtight. The walls are all 0.5mm thick, and total height of the box is 5mm. Total volume in 700mm³. It just fits under the board. Note that the board looks like it's bent upwards, but that's not the speaker enclosure's fault, the frame itself causes this. Still, carefully sand down the top and bottom of the box for a better fit.
What 3D printer do you have exactly? I'm asking a friend to print it out for me since I don't have one......he has a Prusa MK3s
I use a resin printer, I don't think you'll be able to print this with a filament printer, the walls are much too thin. I can't remember if I used the Anycubic Mono X for this or the Elegoo Saturn 2. But shouldn't matter, any resin printer can print this.
I've designed and then printed with a filament printer some 8 x 12 and 9 x 16 enclosures, generic ones, only one for a specific install. His wall thickness of .5 mm is a little thin though for a filament printer at .020. I've been using .040-.045 for wall thicknesses but could probably go down to .030. I find I can do detail down to about .014 with the Ender on high quality but not a wall thickness that thin. I might try one at .025 at some point. The thicker wall thickness is only going to cut down on the interior volume which does play a part but not sure the difference in the two wall thicknesses would be noticeable as for at the sound quality and loudness. Sumner
I can deal with inches in general, and I can easily visualize 1/8 or 1/16 of an inch (about 3mm and 1.5mm), but small decimal inches are absolutely beyond me, I have no idea without taking out a converter what .03 of an inch means! (Don't get me started on farenheits, I only understand those in the context of an oven ) Anyway, you could probably print the box with 0.75mm wall thickness, but you'll lose some precious space inside, and likely need to redesign it some. Fortunately for french_guy, it won't be necessary, we've already chatted about it.
And some of us have the opposite problem . I've used the mm to inches calculators so many times now I'm getting a better feel for what .5 or .75 mm is in what I'm use to (thousands of an inch). I imagine my Fusion 360 and yours is set up for different units of measurements. I can use fractions but don't unless I'm doing carpentry work (a lot of that over the years). I can convert most fractions to thousands of an inch in my head since I've done it so many times and can still visualize thousands and fractions in my head. Starting to visualize some mm measurements in my head but usually have to convert them in my head to thousands of an inch first. A real mess and I would of had no problem if we (U.S.) would of just switched to metric a long ways back. I was partners in a Honda, Suzuki, Norton motorcycle dealership back in the '60's and got pretty familiar then with metric. I had and still do two sets of wrenches, my motorcycle ones and my car ones. The U.S. should of just switched at that time but instead didn't and then we went to some of the fasteners on cars were metric and some SAE. What a mess, Sumner
Yeah, that's the headache inducing bit, the thousands of an inch! All lumber here is in inches and feet still, so that's why I don't have much problem there, though I really have to think hard to know if 5/32 is bigger or smaller than 1/8 My fusion 360 is in millimeters for sure, and I tend to make my details no less than 0.05mm, and keep any bigger detail a multiple of this measurement, the size of my printer's pixels. And yes, I do keep hex wrenches in both same and metric sizes, and it's a pain.
I'm in the exact same boat.....! "I can deal with inches in general, and I can easily visualize 1/8 or 1/16 of an inch (about 3mm and 1.5mm), but small decimal inches are absolutely beyond me, I have no idea without taking out a converter what .03 of an inch means!"
