Ok, I get that you're not there yet. But I don't know why there would be any drive wheels with apparently very little counterweight, on any steam locomotive (except Climax, Shay, etc.). Then again, scale models probably don't need driver counterweights much anyway, except for appearance.
Actually each of those represents quite a bit of lead. The main driver got more partly because the rods that connected it to two other axles were twice as stout, and mainly because the main bore the brunt of the piston thrust.
I spent some time cutting up the weight. I need to mill it down a fair bit - it's looking a bit Avant Garde
I've trimmed up the weight a bit - still looks odd. I've swapped out the spectrum motor and put in the replacement one to allow the weight to be lower.
I've chopped the front as the whole thing still offends me!! So I'll make some major modifications to the mechanism to get it flatter and more in proportion. Using a Concor Heavy 2-10-2 would be more straight forward but I am having fun with this. Picture 1 below shows the chop Picture 2 below shows the height difference between the J based mechanism and the Northern based mechanism.
Start with a concor 2-10-2 mech. The drivers actually scale out to 69-70" and are spoked which is perfect for the madame queen. Drasko
Yes I have come to the fast conclusion that is a better option. I just had some J's lying around and I thought I'd see how far I could get. Your model looks awesome!!
Hi Adam, You are absolutely right, I take my hat off to you. The Con-Cor 2-10-2 Heavy is the perfect starting point for Madam Queen - I even measured out the driver wheelbase. I won't be using the J Class mechanism for this build, I'll find another use for it. Much obliged.
So here's the start of something interesting, I am using my Concor 2-10-2 for Madame Queen. This simplifies the mechanism somewhat. I just need a front pilot truck off a Kanawha or Berkshire, a rear Delta truck and that is about there. I'll use an atsfnscalemodels tender behind the loco. I need to get another K&S Brass tube so I can make the intermediate boiler section. I have the front and rear tubes but not the middle.
I'm trying to source K&S Brass tube 5/8 inch diameter for the intermediate boiler section within NZ. Overseas orders are taking up to 5 weeks to arrive from the US. I have the front section (19/32) and rear section (21/32). Unfortunately most of the stockists are in Auckland under lockdown. It might take a while to get the boiler formed.
Hi Al I thought I had what you need, but it's 0.656" (16.7mm) or 21/32. I was in Acorn Models in Christchurch just prior to Level 4 Lockdown and they may have what you're looking for. Under Level 2 they should be able to help. E-mail sales@acornmodels.co.nz or check out www.acornmodels.co.nz. All going well, we may once again be Covid free soon. Cheers Steve
Hi Steve, I had a look at Acorn Models but they don't have the size I need, I have found a shop in level 2, hangerone, so will order from them. I also found one on Trade Me from a place in Auckland but they haven't responded to my question. I probably should have the tube this coming week. Thanks for your help. Alister
Well this is embarrassing, I already have a 5/8" pipe, just found it in my box of steam scratchbuilding box, I already looked in there so many times! Well that means I can rough out the boiler! Yay!!
Well two years on and I no longer have to scratch build the boiler, a 3D printed shell is winging it's way to NZ made by Adam (Drasko). It looks awesome, can't wait to get my hands on it
Oops, this tender isn't quite right for Madame Queen so it'll go back behind a Hudson. I'll get to the tender after the shell is done