I like the second plan, but I'd like it more if the crossing to the mill was actually a flyover, with the mill up on a hill. The track from the main to the the lead at lower left should be lengthened to lessen the resulting grade change due to the flyover. The right end switch of said track could now be slid rightward to underneath the new bridge.
Another afternoon with mu Kobra 2. I am working on a N scale signal bridge. The prints took 3 minutes each, the clean-up 2 1/2 hours of tedious sanding, filing and scraping and I am still not finished. My OCD keeps me at it. My wife heard me complaining out-loud on several occasions, so she came up to the work area and suggested I take up crocheting., stating it would be much less stressful. I tried several different ways to print these files and the only way I could get a good print was with the part flat on the bed. I think I may break-down and buy a resin printer.
Not sure what is going on with the printer.... .... also not sure about the size of the print but when I printed the parts above I had no cleanup and usually never do with the Ender. I'd think your printer should be comparable. If you can get the resin printer as it is really nice having the option for either. Some items are better printed on one vs. the other. I wish I would of started using my resin printer sooner. I wouldn't want to not have the clean and cure station also as it makes print cleaning and curing very easy and un-messy. Sumner
These pieces are not the same as your model but similar (since I don't have the model file you're using.) The two on the right were printed with a custom profile I did for printing overhead catenary, the two on the left are using a standard .2 layer, 150mm/s Kobra 2 profile for Prusa Slicer. None of the pieces have been cleaned up. The thicker structures are all "T" shaped beams, the thinner ones only have T beams on the outside. I think some slicer tweaks might get you set. Is the brim/raft/skirt turned on in your slicer giving you extra material around everything? I don't ever use them (because they require clean up), first layer goes on slow, no fan, bed at 65C - it usually works out. These were just printed in the garage, ambient temperature about 60-63F. I don't want to derail this thread going into the weeds of 3D land so if you want we can work this over in the 3D forum. I tried to nudge you, I really did Cheers -Mike
Those look exactly like mine. I cannot get a clean print on mine. The files I have were resized to N scale from HO. The first prints where way too thin, eventually I got them about where they should be, but the prints just are not as clean as they could be. I'm printing at .15mm using the Prusa slicer. No brim at all, my bed was set to 63C. I am thinking I need to relevel and tweak my Z back in. I may be running slightly lower than I should be. It's not noticeable on larger parts, but these smaller parts look like the first layer may be squished.
OK, the problem is identified and nearly resolved to where I will call it acceptable. I have not releveled my bed since replacing the power supply, so I releveled this morning and started to tweak my Z for a good first layer. It's not perfect yet, but much better than the original prints. A little more tweaking on the first layer and it will be decent.
OK, so a slight delay in the reprint of my diesel engine house. I wanted to start it Friday night and have it wrap up by Saturday afternoon, but I was exhausted after work, so I didn't get to the project until Saturday morning. The print just finished after 27 hours. The new house is a bit bigger, It is 5.5 x 8 x 4.5. I modded the shell without any accessories such as the stairs or awning or any other little bits that need to be added. I am thinking about modding the engine house into a rollingstock repair house. Maybe just a tad smaller than the small diesel house pictured.
Building looks great . The long print time??? Were you printing on the highest quality? I haven't had the patience for that on my bigger buildings and print with 'standard' quality using Cura as a slicer. It sure looks nice and sharp. Question about the throttle case top. Love the color, looks like wood but I believe it is the top you can print so wondering if it is printed is that the filament color? If so what type filament? Sumner
Sumner, the diesel house is just plain 'big'. I was working on the house as a model, but I wasn't satisfied with the seams, so I decided to mod the project into a big shell. The build is 8" x 5.5 x 4.5, with lots of cubed windows to print. Yes, the file is extremely long to print, but it looks leaps and bounds better than putting it together as a model. I need to print the awnings, braces, gantry, steps, and doors. Those will look fine glued on kit style. This was sliced with Prusa, and I believe .13mm layers, so that added time. Yes, that is your throttle cover. I am multi-tasking as usual (always a project to get done). That PLA is Stronghero - Silk -Black/Red. Sometimes you get a deeper black tone while other times redder, like the case cover. It just depends on what part of the roll you are in. Some people complain about the PLA not preforming well, but I had no problems with it.
Yet another project moving along. This is my version of the WiTcontroller. I want to thank Peter Akers and Sumner for this very interesting project. I am still waiting on some parts to arrive so I can wire this up. What I have pictured will change soon. The screws I used to connect the top were a bit too long and started to push through the face of the controller, so that will need replaced. This entire project is a huge learning curve, my hopes are for minimal issues in wiring and programming the unit, but reality has a way of kicking your backside. My fingers are crossed. My buttons will be arranged nearly identical to Sumners throttle. 1. Green (Go, forward) 2. White (reverse) 3. Yellow (Lights) 4. Red (Emergency Stop) 5. Black (Track Power) The 2 side buttons are bell and horn. Top toggle for choosing battery. (I will add the extra battery to this throttle.) ON_OFF is the black button on top. Thats the idea right now, the button functions may change slightly.
Good afternoon, folks. I haven't been posting much as of late due to household obligations and projects that need addressed at home. I am backlogged with too many to-dos, and I find it difficult to schedule free time for myself, but today I am lucky as my wife is away for the entire day. I brought up the idea of printing chain-link fence in N scale a while back. I tried it once and it was a failure as you would expect, but I never give up. I gave it some thought as to why I couldn't get a good print with my Kobra 2, besides the obvious that the print is just so fine. I paid attention to how the fine layers kept pulling up, especially the first layer, so, I figured if I could get the first layer to stick then the rest would be gravy. My solution was a hot bed for the first layer (not too hot as you do not want to melt the PLA to the point it fattens from the heat) if the PLA becomes too hot it will flow and clog up the links. My sweet spot for a good first layer is 63-degree bed temp. I knocked the layer height down to .12 mm which of course caused a longer print time (about 20 minutes) and I had the extruder at 200. This was for the first layer, after the first layer was laid down the table cooled down to 60 degrees for the rest of the print, the PLA remained at 200. This worked well for me, not perfect by any means but very usable. I know all printers are different, so by no means should anyone take my settings as the end all for all printers, this is just what worked for me after some trial and error. THIS IS A MACRO SHOT, THE EDGES ARE PHOTO BLUR, THAT IS NOT BAD LINKAGE. So, my conclusion is, yes, you can print chain-link fence in N scale with PLA on a cheap printer.
