Anyone have a idea on how to get the engine shell back on properly after installing a decoder? As in hiding the wires and preventing them from snagging. It seems every loco I install a decoder in I get to take it apart again to adjust the loose wires. I use little baggie ties to make the wires nice and neat. Help!! Carl [ 01. November 2002, 16:27: Message edited by: squirrelrun ]
What scale are you talking about, HO? In N scale, you'd be lucky to use thread to tie up loose wires Harold
You can try Zip-ties, if you are in HO, of bigger, possible twist-ties, and thin nylon string, but be very careful to keep it out of the flywheels. I have also been so mad at some locos, that I Have put a drop of glue on the frame to hold it, but I might have been wrong in doing that. Dave Amenta
Heat shring tubing, electrical tape, I cut most of my wires as short as I possibly can (this involved great confidence in your ability to strip the insulation off of those tiny wires.) The hard part is bulbs that are attached to the shell (ditch lights, beacons, etc) - I'm using header plugs to make these detachable - I don't want to have to de-solder just to remove the shell.
Can you post a photo of a "header plug" and tell us where to get one? Is it big enough to carry motor current between tender and engine in HO?
There are lots of types available in different sizes - they are available at electronic stores. This one will handle an Amp without a problem. For bulbs we are usually talking about 15 or 30 milliamps, and smaller plugs are out there. http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3dc2530d0ae7ae26273fc0a87f9c0718/Product/View/P2733 digikey lists over 8000 headers... here is but one page of types and sizes http://info.digikey.com/T023/V5/0067-0068.pdf
My home layout is in N Scale. (Mostly drop in decoders) Am tinkering with decoders in HO for a club member. So I.m working with both scales. Help Carl
I can't help much with the N scale stuff. HO installations vary based upon locomotive manufacturer and decoder. For getting the wires out of the way, the best thing to do is to make them as short as possible - as long as they aren't too short. If you are adding special effects (ditch lights for example) it get's more complicated. Specifically what are you trying to accomplish?
My project for the day today was to install a decoder in an Athearn SD40-2. So I took some pictures so you can see how I do it. It's not the neatest install I have ever done, but it works (so far anyway...) I'm starting to question the use of plugs between the shell and the chassis. It's a lot of extra work, and only pays off if I have to take the loco apart frequently - this hopefully does not happen often... The Chassis: The Shell: Look at all those wires! This loco has operating ditch lights and rotary beakon as well as rear and front lights. The black shink wrap in the cab is where all the resistors are. See how the ditch light wires are routed? This required removing part of the chassis with a dremel. These are 'snap off' headers and are the same parts used to make 'nmra' sockets. This is the plug attached to the shell. .019" brass wire makes the pins. How it fits together: All done:
Thank you yankinoz!!! I LOVE IT! The header plug idea never occurred to me. It's so simple and solves many an issue.
Nice web site there bonkyrail... I'm thinking the next one will get the decoder in the shell with a 4 pin plug between the chassis and the shell. (RBOG) or might just us the NMRA standard plug in the interest of standards...
If you do it right (a 4 pin plug that is) it would be reversible. Like this: ROGB This is totally how my next Athern is wired... if it goes forward when you want it to go backward just flip the plug... But do not do this: RO GB If you plug that in 90 degrees out of alignment, you would send full track voltage into the Orange and Gray wires - this WILL fry the decoder... [ 07. November 2002, 22:15: Message edited by: yankinoz ]
