Hey Trainboarders! I've been gone out of the board for quite some time now. Been really busy with home chores for several months. But I'm back and wanting to get back to my RR. I have the benchwork made and I used styrofoam (or something like it) for my base. My question is, can I lay my cork for my roadbed directly to this surface or should I place something else down on top of the styrofoam? If I can lay it, what do you recommend I use to keep the cork in place, then later I guess I can use a little longer nail to try to secure the track??? I may have had this worked out before, but I've forgotten what I was gonna do I guess. Glad to be back and can't wait to hear your responses. Thanks in advance!! <a href=http://www.drydenroad.com/jeff/RR.html>JLN Railroad</a> [ 26. February 2004, 03:06: Message edited by: msg4jeff ]
I use dress makers pins to hold down my cork. The same pins are used to lay track, after the ballast is down you can remove the pins. You will need to use a thimble or needle nose to pin the cork down as it is realy hard on the fingers
If the cork is your roadbed, you shouldn't need any other sub-roadbed. Try applying a length of cork to the styro with Liquid Nails. Lay a 1/8" thin bead along the pre-drawn track line, and spread thin with a putty knife. Lay your cork roadbed down, add some books for pressure, and let set. After drying, check it for strength, and if it passes, then do the rest.
i dont glue my roadbed down, i nail it. sure is a to take it apart if i do a mistake. I would tell you to not glue the roadbed dow because im sure you're going to have some adjustments to do first.
My experience tends to support what Patrick has said, I had to change several spots on my track. I used AMI roadbed as it allowed me to change my mind.
I use Elmer's white glue to secure the roadbed to the foam. It's tacky enough to stick to the foam,yet you can adjust it before it dries. If you need to move it after it dries, you can remove it with a putty knife.
Stupid Rookie Question.... I've heard about some people glueing the TRACK down instead of nailing it. Anyone no anything about it?
Palmer, First, welcome to Trainboard. You will find a great group of people with a bus load of knowledge. Second, as I tell my employees, There are no stupid questions, just stupid mistakes. I have always glued my roadbead down but never my track. The way I look at it if I need to realine my track because of a switch change or something else it is a lot easier to move the track if its not glued. I my case I use Atlas code 100 and code 83 flex and switches. The ties have holes in the every half dozen or so and I have found a small brad that fits into the hole and holds the track down wonderfully. I do pre drill the hole with a drill the size of the hole just enought the get the brad started. I do the same with my switches. If I am useing Tru-Scale milled roadbed I will also use the same brad. The Tru-Scale switches I use are pre assembled so I use brads on them also. Hope that helps Shannon WP LIVES (no matter what the UP says)
I'm gluing my track down on the basis that once I glue the ballast, crossings, etc, round/in/over it, it will be stuck down anyway
Has anyone ever heard of using hot glue to secure the track to the roadbed? I would use nails but I don't think the nails will hold well in the styrofoam. I've used both liquid nails and hot glue to place my roadbed, it seems real secure. I tried a small section of track tonight with hot glue and it seems to hold well, just wondering if anyone else has any experience with it. Jeff
I have glued the track down in my switch yard right on the foam board. On the main line I glued the cork and tacked the track.
I use yellow wood glue for everything. Easy to work with and non-toxic like white glue, and it's nearly indestructable when dry. I use that generally for both the track to roadbed and roadbed to subroadbed connections.
Another question. Concerning switches. Which is better or is it just a preference thing. Top of the table switches or under table switches? I would think under the table switches would be easier to navigate around when weathering track or laying ballast. This all assumes that I will be running the switches electrically instead of manually. Which do you guys prefer and why?
