Removing Flux after soldering?

Coaltrain Oct 21, 2004

  1. Coaltrain

    Coaltrain TrainBoard Member

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    Anybody have a good method to remove flux after you solder somthing together? I have trouble getting all of the flux (or rosin) off after I solder something together and then after I paint the part the paint will lift off some of the joints where the part was not clean enough.
     
  2. David Hauver

    David Hauver E-Mail Bounces

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    I clean my solder joints off with lacquer thinner and after dry, apply denatured alcohol. Let dry and paint. Never had any problem with paint flaking or pealing off.
     
  3. Coaltrain

    Coaltrain TrainBoard Member

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    Wow, that was fast.

    Do you brush on the lacquer thinner or soak. some of the parts that I make are either large or long (like the one I made last night), and I can't find any container to soak them in. when I would brush on lacquer thinner it would seem to just smear the stuff around but not remove it.
     
  4. slimjim

    slimjim Passed away January 2006 In Memoriam

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    How about cotton balls and Q-Tips???
     
  5. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Are you using a resin core solder? Or in addition, a liquid? Sounds like there's a little too much. Usually, the heating from my iron will burn it all away. If not, a little isopropyl alchohol seems to do the job for me in cleaning.

    :D

    Boxcab E50
     
  6. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Alcohol only? I would rather not use the lacquer thinner in case it got on something and caused some problem. Will just alcohol be sufficient? I am sure the lacquer thinner would do a better job. I suppose that just wiping the area with no cleaner would not suffice? Good question.
     
  7. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Flash-

    I use a PC board resin core solder. And the few times it's ever needed cleanup, this has been sufficient. I'd prefer to avoid solvents that have worse fumes and explosive potential, ever indoors. Not to mention their ability to attack plastics, etc.

    If I find a situation where a secondary flux is necessary, then I normally will try a thorough cleaning before soldering. So there's rarely any residue to worry about.

    :D

    Boxcab E50
     
  8. Coaltrain

    Coaltrain TrainBoard Member

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    Sometimes I use a mix between rosin core solder (most of the work I do) and some times I have to use a paste flux. The paste flux seems to come off easy, the rosin sets back up again it it does not want to come off as easy.
     
  9. greasemonkey

    greasemonkey TrainBoard Member

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    Take an "acid brush"- the cheap metal handled brushes and cut the bristles to 1/4" or slightly shorter. You want the bristles to be really stiff.

    Dip it in alcohol and scrub the rosin. If the rosin is rock hard yo are doing one of 2 things. You are either using a soldering iron that's too hot, or leaving the iron in contact with what you're soldering for too long.
     
  10. I apply lacquer thinner witha q-tip, then apply denatured alcohol also with a q-tip.
     
  11. Mark_Athay

    Mark_Athay TrainBoard Member

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    Paste flux is the better stuff to use. It's also easier to clean up. It's basically an oily/greasey stuff to clean. Any soap & water / scrubbing will remove it. For smaller detailed stuff the above suggestions are good. Rosin tends to leave a harder residue. Expect to need more scrubbing & maybe some paint thinner. Lacquer thinner is a stronger solvent, an may cause problems with your other stuff on the layout.

    Mark in Utah
     
  12. N_S_L

    N_S_L TrainBoard Member

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    Are you supposed to have excess flux? I use the gel stuff.... maybe I get just enough on not to have excess.
     

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