Hello, My HO layout was constructed using Bachmann's nickel silver sectional track w/roadbed. I followed the advice of several people in the hobby to changeover from my Atlas brass track to nickel silver. Because of an arthritic problem in both hands, I stayed away from the more labor intensive type track (laying it myself, etc.) and roadbed, going with what I thought would be an easy fix. Well, there ain't any such thing. I'm here to tell anyone who is about to put together a good size layout that this sectional stuff ain't what it is cracked up to be. I have found that on my pike - length of 35 ft and 15 1/2 ft wide at the widest point - conductivity could and should be better. My curves are 22" because that was the best I could find from Bachmann at the time. Nevertheless, all of my 85' passenger cars (43 of them) operate just fine with that radius. The "roadbed" looks cheesy and I wound up laying my own ballast on top of it - lots of fun with over 900 pieces of track, switches and crossovers to contend with. The most aggravating probelm I encountered in using this stuff came with the Bachmann #6 crossovers. They are wired for DCC and either I did not read the markings or it simply was not clearly identified on the packaging (about 3 years ago) - but I had to rewire them all to accommodate the way I run my railraod. I use the commonrail approach with insulated rail joiners - you know, the old fashioned way - so to speak. Anyway, in trying to get these crossovers to switch at the same time, without having to use more than one controller to throw them, I spliced together the wires needed in order to accomplish what I thought would be a simple solution. Not so. Sometimes they do and sometimes they do not. So, my first question is this: Does anyone have some advice regarding what should be done to get these crossovers to switch properly using one controller? Second question: Is anyone aware of a remedy for Bachmann's beneath the track switching mechanisms that from time to time are balky? I have over four dozen Atlas switch machines from my former layout with everything required for beneath the board mounting, but am not sure how to go about adapting them to Bachmann's stuff. Third question: Are any of the manual switch throws adaptable to this type of switch and crossover? My layout is as complete as it is going to get. To me, it looks great and my trains operate quite well on it. I run 4 consists independently of one another and really am pleased with everything other than those damned #6 crossovers. Thanx for indulging me and hopefully some thoughts will come my way.
G'day from Oz, I believe you need a capacitor discharge unit on point motor circuit. I have circuits here thowing 5 point motors at a time . Should find them in MR or MRC etc Put power feeds to all pieces of rail or solder joints of sections of rail together and one set of feeds and use a main feeder wire [bus wire] to join the feeders to this will improve conductivity.I have power feeds every 10ft on my layout with a heavy gauge multi strand wire for the bus and smaller wire for the drops .Sorry I cant help with the point throws as I use Peco and have done since I started railroadin
I am not familiar with Bachmann points, but if the motors are the double-solenoid type, as Les said, a capacitor discharge unit is a must for reliable operation. A CD unit will also prevent the danger of burning out a solenoid coil.
Hello Les and Alan, Thanx for the response and information! Now to the nitty gritty - these Bachmann crossovers have the motor and associated mechanisms built in. All of it is nicely concealed beneath the roadbed. All of my track is now permanently secured, ballasted and landscaped. I'd rather not have to tear it all up - there are four crossovers located on my layout. What I am looking for is a way to boost the power needed to throw two sets of switch tracks (crossovers) while using one controller. Each controller has a three-wire lead that I have spliced into the three-wire leads from the crossover (each crossover having two sets of these). Sometimes they both 'throw' and sometimes they do not. Indications are that they are simply not receiving the 'boost' they need to do the job. So, with your recommendations, how would I go about accomplishing what you suggest? Many thanx again!
OK. That's what a capacitor discharge does it gives full power for throwing point motors. the three wires basicly gives you a left and a right and a common earth return. You put the discharge unit on the power wire before the left and right controller .Solder all joints , don't use telephone type wire it does not carry enough power over distance use a multi strand type. Check the electronic adds in Model Railroader etc or go to your favourite local hobby shop who should be able to put you in the right direction to find them close to you Regards Les
