It's been a while since I posted a photo, but here are a couple pics of my Stewart / Kato F7 painted for my road, the Trinity River & Western. It has had numerous things done like portholes and dynamic brakes filled in, an American Model Builders dual light nose door installed and then the light was filled in and painted body color, DA grabs and other parts. A DCC decoder has been installed with operating light and strobe.
Were A/C units typically placed towards the rear of the units on locomotives that were equipped with them? I assume A/C units were not on F7's and such until much later after they were built.
Thanks for the comments! Pat- That is a winterization hatch mounted on top to cover the rear fan. Even though my TR&W is based in the Fort Worth area, my scenario says that the unit was purchased from the Milwaukee Road. Hence, the winterization hatch. Thanks again!
Chuck Great looking! Did you model this from a prototype? Never saw a Wagon without the dynamics....strange. Is that the reason for no forward porthole? Cool! 2slim
I appreciate the comments! 2slim - I detailed this unit to appear like an ex-Milwaukee road unit. There F's did not have dynamics (at least the one that I wanted to model!). This included covering the front portholes and installing a passenger pilot. There were a number of roads that featured non-dynamic F's - the ACL, Milwaukee, Frisco, NYC etc. Flash - That's one reason I chose this scheme because it is pretty simple to mask. Just cut a thin strip of blue masking tape and run down the upper sides and curve to the bottom. Then just fill in the tan with tape and spray the red. Simple enough!
Hopefully the B unit will be finished this weekend. I still need to paint it and install a decoder. Maybe I will also be able to get better photos that don't appear so bright! I'll post it when it's done.
Alan- That's how I thought I would paint it, but I am open for suggestions. I am also thinking about adding Detail Associates stainless grills to the sides of the units. What do ya'll think? I will paint the shell on Sunday and post pics then.
I would paint it with the red top to match the A unit. Very prototypical. That is the way the Trinity River and Western did theirs IIRC. Also, I would put stainless grills on some and not on others. Makes it look like a rebuild. Like some with high fans and some with low fans. Just my 2 cents.
<font color="336633">Thats a nice looking unit, as far as the stainless grills I'm not sure if I would put them on at this stage, I was toying with the idea when I did my Stewart F7A and B but decided against it, if the unit was to be a fresh repaint I may have put them on but mine was heavy weathered so didnt bother
This is just so convincing. The colors and separation line are unlike anything I've seen - but plausible. I always like the idea of giving your freelance road engines with identifying features from their previous owner. This sort of thing happens in real life - some shortlines have Geeps with SP light sets - and it's nice to see such things modelled.
Matthew- I went to the LHS on Saturday and picked up some DA stainless grills for the A unit. I am going to lay the unit on the side and place a grill on it just to see if it I like it. Triplex- Thanks! Sometimes it is easier to pick a prototype to model and then add your own paint and lettering. I feel the models end up being more realistic. Now for the F3B: I finished detailing the shell with grabs, lift rings and a DW end door detailing kit. I also cut the skirts and then primed it and painted it tan. I also installed a couple high fans as Flash suggested. Tonight I hope to have the red painted along with the black steps and skirts. I'll post a photo after I do that.
That's a good looking F unit with some good looking paint and bodywork. Nice job indeed. That is a very clean breakline between the two colors on the paint scheme. What did you use to mask the curve? Excellent work!
Thanks Kitbash! I have used the blue Scotch painters tape for several years. I peel a piece and stick it onto a piece of glass. Then I use a metal straight edge and a new single edge razor blade to trim it into thin strips. I then apply the tape to the loco, and with the thin strips it makes it very easy to achieve the curve you want. I use ModelFlex paint most of the time since it goes on very thin.
Wow, very inspiring. I finally have a few old engines that I don't really care for since purchasing newer (meaning better) ones and I'm thinking mabe it's time to get my feet wet with painting and lettering and stuff.
