Anyone know where to find assembly instructions for this engine? I have 4 to do, and while I have figured most of it out thru trial/error, the teeny tiny detail parts (and I'm an N scaler) are unknown as to where they go, and how they go in.
Hemi .. is there supposed to be an image or two in here to show us what you are talking about?? I'm not showing any here!
Well, I was just hoping for a link to the manufacturer's site, like Atlas has on their engines--with an illustrated parts breakdown. I managed to figure out 80% of the teeny stuff, but I have some truck frame details that I don't know how to install... And a few parts that I don't have a clue about.... The engines came from a frind at the club in a box, not the original, and no instructions.....
I installed a MARS lite in the nose of one (of the 4) SD50, and it took upwards of an hour to do ONE! I wanted to use a little putty as possible, so the surgery took a long time to get close enough. I am so thankful I model in N! Pics soon.....
If you can do us a shot of the parts you have i'll have a go at ID'ing them. I have a couple of Proto SD60's, and many of the add-on bits are era or specific road related, they might not be applicable to the one you have?
Well, I have 2 P2K SD-50's im in the midst of paying off at work. I can photo copy a page of instructions for you if you would like. If I get my scanner working, ile email it to you. If not, theres got to be an easier way then snail mail, but it depends on how long and how baddly you want it. PM Me if you want.
I did a little write-up of installing a Gyralite in the nose of my DRGW SD50 on another forum awhile back; dunno if it'll help you or not, but here it is: "I used Evergreen #118 .015" x .188" styrene strip to build the headlight mounts on my DRGW and SP SD50s (.20" or .030" thick styrene would work also). I cut off two pieces of it, one about .275" long, the next about .090" long. I glued the short .090" section to the back of the long piece, bringing it even with the top (the assembly should have an "L" shape). I glued another piece of styrene to the back of the assembly to help keep everything square, and to provide a place to mount microbulbs. I can't remember what the exact size was; I just cut and squared up a rectangular chunk of plastic to fit on the back. I glued a large piece of .005" styrene to the assembly (onto the bottom of the "L"), to hide the seam and provide a nice, smooth surface - this will be the top "cap" of the headlight mount. Once the cement dried, I trimmed it to the size. I cut a hole into the nose about .190" wide (centered left-to-right; use the nose grabs as centering references), and about .270" tall (as measured from the top of the nose down). I used my x-acto and needle files to CAREFULLY cut in the bevel underneath the headlight opening. I just eyeballed it until it looked right compared to photos. If the opening is square, the entire assembly should drop right in, with about .005" or .006" of the "cap" sticking above the nose surface. Glue it from behind with some liquid plastic cement, then glue on either a Gyralite casting of choice (I used DA's), or a blanking plate for an SP, or late DRGW unit (the blanking plate is made from a piece of .005" styrene about .140 wide, and .240" tall, with rivet detail embossed from behind with a dull pin in a pin vise). That's it; paint it either black or scarlet, and if you took your time, there should be little, if any touch up needed to surrounding areas. All of this is actually easier to do than I've described; the only thing to watch out for, of course, is the size of the opening you cut. As long as you follow the carpenter's adage of "measure twice, cut once", and don't go crazy with the x-acto and files, you should be okay. A miter box and razor saw (for cutting the styrene pieces), calipers, and sharp x-acto blades come in handy for this little operation." And a pic of the model after the nose light was installed - http://www.railimages.com/gallery/SP_8299s_Models/aae
