I have nothing but Atlas track (Code100 and 83) and I would like to try and model a large yard, almost 4'x10'. My question is How can I use the turnouts and make them look closer to prototypical (close running lines)? Has anyone tried to modify Atlas switches? Shorten by cutting or bend just a bit tighter angel? Also, I have never tried to join code 100 to 83. Are there any special considerations to take into account when doing this?
I have never tried to change an Atlas turnout. My yard is 2' wide and 14' long with 28 turnouts in it and I never had to modify any of them. They make a rail joiner that connects code 83 to 100. Even so it takes some extra adjusting to get it right. I would say it would be better to stick to one size track unless you are talking about only one or two connections!
I have Atlas "Super Code 83" turnouts. Have not tried to modify them. If this turns out to be more of a chore than worth it, I'd consider the option of using Brand X turnouts. I know Walthers has the new "DCC friendly" turnouts. (How much is actually available is another story) As for transitions, I have both 100 and 83 on my layout. 83 in all the visible areas, and code 100 in all hidden areas. I used transition peices to make the change. A short peice of track sized at code 100 at one end and code 83 at the other. I do have one place where I used the code 100/83 joiners. I used the insulated flavor available from MicroEngineering. Both methods have worked fine for me with absolutely no mechanical problems.
Thanks Guys, I will look into the 100/83 rail joiners. I would think that if I shorten the turnouts it would work. I guess I will just have to experiment. I will post on my findings. Thanks.
ok..this has got me wondering... I have a layout that 99% code 100, but I have a peco code 70 double slip. What would I have to do to get code 100 to match up to this? Are the profiles so totally different that I couldnt just solder the code 100 directly to it?
Andy, Just trying to get the most out of the space that I can. Seems to me that a few inches here and a few there, will let me put one or more lines in. I have yet to try the hand laid track yet, but have been trying to study up on it. Seems you can get a bit more 'room' for the tracks that way.
Dis, You bring up a very good point. I might just try that, since I have never tried it before. Let alone thunk of it. Seems like that should work. Thanks
Guys, The Atlas Code 83 and Code 100 track and turnouts all come out at the same height at the top of the rail. Atlas made the ties on the code 83 slightly (17/1000) thicker to make up the difference. Therefore, only the special joiners are needed (and you could simply modify standard joiners with a Dremel grinding wheel and a quick bend with pliers). Matching the Peco turnout to the track would involve shimming the turnout so that the tops of the rails match, and using some sort of modified joiner to help with the soldered joint, if you want. I do not solder my turnouts in place in case they need to be replaced or repaired in the future. Andrew
John, The Atlas 'Customline' turnouts will produce yard ladders that are 2" 'on center'(14'6"). Triming them will allow you to get tighter parallel yard tracks, but most yard were built with 13' or 14' centers, and any new construction has to be at least 15' centers(law passed in the 60's). Now 'triming' a turnout can be done(and I have a couple on my layout), but good up front planning and careful cutting/soldering are going to be required to achieve flawless operation. Good luck with your layout! Jim Bernier
There are ways to make them better. I emply the use of jumper wires to help electrically and I run with DCC. As for appearance, my mainline is on cork roadbed. My yards are on AMI instant road bed or n-scale cork. I ballast the yards and put some woodland scenics ground foam and straw here and there in the yard and in the gauge. I also use just a little bit more ballast and I try to find a finer mix. Once I am done. It appears that the track height is different, but it is not. It is all still code 100.
Jim, Thanks for the info on the centers. I apollogize for not checking in sooner, I have one of those kind of jobs. I am not familliar withe the Customline from Atlas. I may have something from it and don't know it. Seems that I still have some homework to do.
John, That why I asked you about why you wanted to change the turnouts before. As Jim stated, if you shorten up the centers just to get one or two more tracks in you might run into a few problems plus they won't look very prototypical!! I only state this because it is better to look closely at it now before you cut up a bunch of turnouts to find it won't work or look good.
May I suggest you set several box cars side by side on the spacing you want, then try lifting one out of the middle without tipping the other cars over into a "Domino" effect? It is best to leave room for your fingers between cars that will derail occasionally.
Good points all. I think that if I had to try and get my fingers inbetween a 2" center I would have problems. Gotta respect the expierence here. Thanks for the feedback.
