Well I cant seem to upload the image of the overall plan due to the size exceeding 100K So here is a link to the overall plan without my chick scratch notes The top portion will attach directly to the walls, how I have not figured out yet. The 36"x36" sections will have 2x2 legs towards the front. The upper right module will only have one leg on the lower left of that module. The top and right side will attach to the walls. The right portion of the benchwork are shelves secured to the wall via shelving brackets. The shelves will consist of 1/4" plywood with 2" foam board ontop. The bottom section will consist of two free standing 16"x41" moudules with four 2x2 legs per module. The Center / Left side will consist of 36"x36" free standing modules again with four 2x2 legs per module.
West Side (top of overview plan) This is a rough sketch of what I am thinking of for the west side (west wall). Currently I have planned that the top of the benhwork less the foam board will be at 48" in height. I am thinking of raising the base height to 50" to allow the lower level foam base to be at 30" from the floor. Any lower would be very cumbersome for layout operation and viewing. 30" is pushing the limits in my mind. Of course raising the overall benchwork to 50" less the 2" foam board will increase my cost some as more material and waste will be produced for the legs. But this is minimal and worth it in the long run. I am thinking of 1x2 lumber to construct the frames themselves. Should I be looking at other dimensions for lumber? The benchwork will have three levels. The top level is the main level which is what layout plan 7.1 is. The next level down is the Lower Level. The foam board base will be 20" below the upper level. This level will consist of hilly terrain and be more for trains going through scenery as opposed to the upper level which is set in a urban enviroment. There will be a town somewhere on this level. The 1x4 frame will connect directly to the 2x2 legs with L brackets added to improve strength. The next level down base will be 12" below the lower level . This level will be the staging level and will be a huge parking lot for trains and free rolling stock and locos. Being that there will be three levels I am thinking I can get away with not having cross braces as the framework for each level should be enough to brace the benchwork. Is this thing flawed? The middle section 16"x36" will not have legs on it's own. I am planning on securing this section to the adjacent 36"x36" modules. Behind the Gas Pipes will be a non sceniced bidge section to allow trains to travel (see layout plan 7.1) Ok I will continue this when I can post images from home.....I am having issues with file type and size limitations. Here at my work I can only create TIF images.
Benchwork Plans Here are the details to my proposed bechwork plans. Please take look and offer feedback / suggestions. I am in uncharted waters here http://www.madamericancows.org/trai... Division 7.1/Benchwork/Bechwork Plan 7.1.htm
Matt: Track down a copy of Linn Westcott's "How to build Model Railroad Benchwork". I've used L-girder construction ever since I bought my copy in the early 1980s, but he talks about several other options, too.
I actually own that book. While it has been helpful in providing some ideas for benchwork, none of the examples really pertain to my scenerio. Basicly what I am looking at is Butt Joint construction for all areas with excetion to the area that will be simple shelves. The perplexing part for me is how do I achieve three layers of butt joint contstruction. The only method I can think of is by attaching the frame to the legs directly. Any ideas?
Help....I cant see the forrest through the trees!! Ok, I took a look at the "How to build Model Benchwork" book again (I have read it a few hundred times) last night and then a light bulb went off. DUH!!! I can use L girder benchwork!! So I am tweaking my benchwork plan (which has led to some minor tweaks on the layout plan....7.2 is in the works geese). I did a quick price check on dimensional lumber on Lowe's website (will shop around a bit when it is time) and this seems very very doable now. I am excited . I think my goal to have the benchwork complete before the end of 2006 will be a reality. Track work will take some more time. I am thinking of going with Atlas code 80 track for my yards and turnouts in my yard areas for two reasons. One it is cheaper, and two most yards I have seen do not have much in the way of roadbed. So the Atlas track I think may actually look better. Thoughts?
SLOOOOOOW GOOOOING I started installing electrical boxes in the basement and I think I hit the rock of Gibraltar . I am using my ole trusty Black & Decker drill with a masonary bit drilling into concrete. Five holes drilled, two boxes installed and on the sixth hole after about a half hour of on and off drilling....still no go and the the drill bit exploded into about six parts!! (I was wearing eye protection). I really wish I owned a Hammer Drill. This basement has presented more learning opportunities than I ever anticipated (yes learning opportunities....the glass is half full right?) I bought the parts for this project back in Feb 2006 and it has taken this long to get to the point of actually installing them Progress but it is slow. This is the last step to clear the way for benchwork construction.
I know how you feel. Although, I took on a smaller layout project so as to avoid too much frustration. I have had my days of head banging against the wall though. Keep at it man, once you get to running trains it will be all worth it.
Thanks for the encouragement Geeky. I have not even got to the layout phase yet.....I have been doing battle with the basement all this time which has led to budget constraints on other areas not to mention life itself certainly has not helped the cash flow issue ....could be worse. Speaking of lack of cash flow.....I have calculated the materials cost for the benchwork to be between $250 and $300. So I am going with $300 for now for budget purposes. This includes all three levels of the benchwork 100% Now I currently do not own a saw or a decent workbench for cutting lumber. A Black & Decker workmate is about $100 and a no frills basic Skill circular saw is about $50. The saw and workmate I would most certainly use again in the future on other projects. But since I am strapped on cash, I was wondering....how much would a place like Home Depot charge to cut all of my lumber.....there are quite a few cuts to be made. Has anyone had their lumber cut by the lumberyard and if yes.....how much did it set you back? This may impact if I get the benchwork done in 2006 or first quarter 2007.
Good Evening, "We" (Lowes) used to charge 25 cents a cut after the first 3 cuts, which were free. I can't say what Depot would charge. I'd give them a call and ask or stop by.
We have Lowes here now in recent years (I moved back to Minnesota from Charlotte NC in 1999.....I am glad to have Lowes again). $.25 a cut....that seems more than fair and very doable. For now, I would be inclined to pay for the cuts and buy a saw and workbech setup at a later date (will still need them for other projects). Thanks for the feedback!!
OH......and welcome to Trainboard!! I dont think I have welcomed you on board yet. And thanks for the info.....it helps the planning process allot!.
I sort of skimmed your benchwork details. I would think you could use a circular saw to do most of your work. Benchwork can't be that complicated. HD lets you have two cuts free and then it's charged. It seems a shame to waste money to have one of their guys do what you can do yourself.
You are right.....I could do all of the cuts myself. Except I do not own a power saw (ok I own a recipracating saw) and I would want a workbench that I would lock in the project / lumber. My dad had a workmate that I used to use all the time years ago. If I owned the saw and workbench, I would do the cuts myself. I would be looking at ploping down about $150 for the bench and basic circualr saw. If the cuts cost me $.25 each I am looking at about $10 to $20 above the cost of lumber. That is not too bad.
True... for this particular project. Aren't there other projects you could use a small, quality circular saw for? With your reciprocating saw and a circular saw, I'd imagine you could cover the sawing needs of most small to medium home projects (including the sawing needs of the Canton Division Layout). With the new saw costs spread over two or three different projects, wouldn't the cost/benefit ratio for purchasing a saw get better than the c/b ratio for having HD or Lowes cut boards for you? And consider, too... what if you decide to make some other changes in the Canton Division plans, or what if the plans you show to Home Depot sawyers call for a 35 inch long piece but you get home and discover you probably should have had a 37 inch long piece? As a (Tongue-firmly-planted-in-my-cheek, meant-to-tease-without any-maliceous-intent) experiment: :teeth: OK everyone... raise your hand if you completed construction of every piece of benchwork for a multiple deck layout without making any changes from the drawing board to the final benchwork detail.)
Well, there is also the potential to cut off your own fingers. Lowes can't do that for you. Seriously, tools can be a good investment.
I'm a power tool kind of guy so I say buy the saw you will not regret it. I've been following your plans and must say I'm impressed and very interested. If you still have the leaky pipe try "Stop Leak" I got it at K-Mart. It's advertised on late night TV. Were they punch a garden hose full of holes and spray it on. Aerosol can. It may sound corny but it really works. I know a couple plumbers that use it. Good luck and thanks. Rich
Thaks for the feedbak all. I guess I will look at the budget and factor in the saw. If I have the lumber place do the cuts, I would be buying the workbench and saw sometime this spring as I have about six other projects on the top of my head where I would need these. Just might delay the benchwork completion into 2007. Depends how some planned auto repairs go and of course Christmas
Matt, What about this as an idea, how about building an inexpensive pair of saw horses for the short term. Lowes sells the hardware and with the addition of a couple 2 x 4s you have a temporary workbench at a much reduced cost that makes that saw a little easier on the budget. Ben
