What do I need to get started?

JoeF Dec 26, 2005

  1. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    Hello, sorry if this doesn't exactly belong here, but I have some HO scale track (not enough for a decent sized layout yet), a locomotive and some cars, what exactly do I need/should I get, to get my track started? I'm completely lost on the electrical side of things, so if anyone could list what I'd need to start off my railroad, that would be much appreciated.

    Also, if anyone has any online Canadian sites where you can purchase items that would help aswell. Thanks!
     
  2. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Joe,

    Welcome to Trainboard I'm sure you will find all the help you need here.

    I assume you bought a complete set? If this is the case I suggest you just set up the loop of track to start running your train.

    Don't rush out and buy track etc until you have done some research and are familiar with the hobby. You may want to buy a magazine like Model Railroader which has good tips for beginners or go to the model railroader site which has a wealth of information.

    Click on the link below

    Model Railroader

    If you did buy a full set it should have a controller / transformer? If so connect the one wire to each rail and that should get you started.

    Hopefully this is enough to get you started. Anytime you want further advice please don't hesitate to ask.

    Hope you enjoy Trainboard and we look forward to seeing your progress.
     
  3. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    I should of gave a little more info and my first post, I have track, a locomotive and a few cars aswell as a controller (sets/adjusts the speed of the loco, forward + backward) and some wires. I'm kinda clueless as to the transformer, which I'm assuming is the same as the controller.

    Is just a connect the wires to the controller/transformer and then to the track making a complete connection? I just want to have a simple layout with a siding and a spur.. maybe later on a yard, so would I need more wires around for each parts of the track, or is it a one connection will do the trick sort of thing?

    Thanks for the help!
     
  4. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    well you would need to add more wires to the siding and yard
     
  5. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    ok, any particular way, or method to adding the wires to the track?
     
  6. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well the best method is to solder to a pair of rail joiners for a good connection.
     
  7. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    You're doing exactly what is needed to get started. Asking questions.

    Welcome aboard!

    :D

    Boxcab E50
     
  8. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    Here's my proposed layout

    http://img302.imageshack.us/img302/81/layout2dz.jpg

    black is main
    red is siding
    orange is spur/backtrack
    blue is a yard (later on)
    controller/transformer is self explainitory
    green are wires

    do I have this set up correctly? do I have wires in the correct places? I realise I would probably need more wires for the yard, but I want simplicity right now
     
  9. Benny

    Benny TrainBoard Member

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    Electricity is simple: one wirein, one wire out. You might do well to get your self a Model railroad wiring book, it will be a good crash course in electronics for you.

    Your setup will not work for that yard, those are nasty radius tuns into it. Yards take up a lot of space, BTW.
     
  10. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    alright then, do I need one wire going to the north side of the raid and one to the south, or is just one wire on either side alright?
     
  11. Benny

    Benny TrainBoard Member

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    Yep, one wire to the north rail, one wire to the south rail, for a total of two wires minimum, and there are two poles on the powerpack for each wire. Things get more complicated when you do more then one of each wire, which is why I highly suggest a model railroad wiring book by Kalmbach or Atlas or any of the major modeling compaines. the atlas Book has the benefit of being backed by a lot of atlas product if you have never done it before and aren't yet ready for DPDTs/etc.
     
  12. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    alright thanks!
     
  13. Triplex

    Triplex TrainBoard Member

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    And that entrance to the yard you drew (aside from the fact that it'll require a huge amount of space in reality) is a wye. That means more division into sections, and more control wiring to avoid short circuits.

    I haven't done a lot of wiring work, so I'll let someone who knows better explain more. :D
     
  14. watash

    watash Passed away March 7, 2010 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    Welcome to TrainBoard Joseph! You aren't old kid, I'm 75 and they allow me fo play here yet. :D

    How much space do you have for this layout?

    One thing to remember, is to connect any track wires to the speed controller (Transformer) to the terminals marked 12v. only!

    We have adopted some terms to tell what we are talking about:

    A 'turnout' is a setof rails that has points to slide so the train can go on continujing on the main line, or by sliding the points the other way, the train will be guided off onto a siding.

    A 'switch' is an electrical device that will cut the flow of electrical current (power) just like you would turn 'off' your room light, to connect so the flow of electrical current can continue and will turn them 'on' again.

    If you are the only operator, then only one train engine can be run at a time, so the wiring is easier.

    Each (turnout) that changes the rails from one track to a siding will also carry the current ok. If you want to have two engines, you can wire an on/off power switch (electrical) to isolate the siding from the rest of the layout so one engine can be run onto the siding and be stopped with its power off, so you can run the other engine.

    Without the power switch, both engines would try to run at the same time, see?

    If you can have the space, try to use 18" radius curved track or larger radius, and use #6 turnouts. (Atlas makes #4 turnouts, but they are too sharp a curve for most of the larger engines of today, so would give you trouble. )

    If you have the space, it will be easier to add sidings and made yards on the outside of the oval loop of track. Best to set up the loop first. Later add a turnout so you can set off some cars there for switching (changing) cars around.

    Later if you get another engine, you can add a power switch to isolate the siding.

    Eventgually you may make a yard, so you will need a power switch for each 'ladder track' in the yard.

    Your layout will grow in time, and the costs don't hurt so bad.

    Remember, we are just as close as your computer email, so keep us going the right direction, OK? :D
     
  15. disisme

    disisme TrainBoard Supporter

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    Very very well put watash! Pretty good for an old fella!
     
  16. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    just another wiring question, about how many wires (one to north and one to south) should I have per feet or per inches. Say, I have 2 feet of straight single track, one connedtion should be sufficient?

    Thanks for all the help so far folks!
     
  17. watash

    watash Passed away March 7, 2010 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    One ground and one hot wire is usually suffecient for each 3 foot section of flex track.

    If you use the 9" sections of track, you can solder some together along with rail joiners, to make about a 3 foot length, (straight and curved) and still only need one ground and one hot wire.
     
  18. JoeF

    JoeF Permanently dispatched

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    "one ground and one hot wire."

    could someone explain this a little further, I'm not sure I understand 100%.
     
  19. Kenneth L. Anthony

    Kenneth L. Anthony TrainBoard Member

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    Circuit electricity takes two wires coming from the power pack, whether it is straight DC, DCC or even AC. Basic DC power packs often have two terminal connections marked "to trains" and sometimes two others marked "to accessories". The pair "to trains" are DC controlled by the speed controller.
    One of the pair goes to one rail and the other of the pair goes to the other rail. (I am not sure which you would call "hot" and which you would call "ground". The only difference for DC is that switching the wires would simply make the train go the other direction. Just connect two different wires from the power supply to two different rails. Or attach a number of wires or connectors from a bus from ONE wire (one SIDE of the power pack) as many places as you want along one rail, and connectors/wires from the other side to the other rail. Do NOT connect wires from both "sides" of the power supply (which could then be called the "not wire and the ground") to the SAME rail.

    Does this explanation make any sense now?
     
  20. watash

    watash Passed away March 7, 2010 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    JoeF,

    Your use of "North' and 'South' I haven't heard since the 1930's. Dad also used "Earth", so I know what you mean.

    So you will understand:

    My standard wiring practice is to start from the power supply (Speed Controller) and find the 12volt DC terminals 'To Trains' that are usually marked with a (-) for your 'South" which is the "Ground" or "Earth" terminal, so the other terminal will be the (+) "North" or "Hot" terminal, see? (Current flows from (+) to (-) see?)

    Pick a section of track and set an engine on it so the engine is facing to your left.

    Temporarily connect the (-) Ground wire colored with GREEN insulation to the (-) ground terminal on the power pack and run it to the LEFT rail that is on the left side of your engine. Now run the Red insulated "HOT" wire from the (+) "HOT" terminal to the RIGHT rail under the right hand side of your engine.

    Now turn the controller Speed knob counter-clockwise to "OFF". Now plug the power cord into a 120v AC wall outlet in the room.

    There is a Direction Switch on the Controller. Flip it to "Forward", and flip the "ON/OFF" switch to "ON".

    If the room lights are still on and there is no fire, SLOWLY rotate the Speed Control Knob clockwise until the engine begins to move forward, but if the engine does NOT move, DO NOT TURN THE KNOB MORE THAN HALF WAY! If the engine has not moved by then, turn the power OFF quickly.

    Check all the wheels on the engine to insure each one is sitting on its rail correctly, and that no other metal is touching either or both rails.
    You should have cleaned the rails and the wheels of your engine! Now try again.

    If the engine begins to move in 'reverse', check the Direction Switch on the controller.

    Your Power Pack may be wired internally so "Forward" is pushing the Direction Switch to your Right, and your engine is trying to go to your right, so simply turn your engine around, and all is well.

    It really doesn't matter which rail is "Ground", so long as you wire the whole layout the same way. I chose the left rail as the Ground rail, because most of the engines I have, run the correct Direction as my power pack is wired for Direction control.

    (I have found a few engines over the years that were manufactured with the wires reversed, so I had to change the wires at the engine's motor.)

    Clear as mud? (You will need gaps and Double Pole Double Throw Switches for each Ladder Track in your Yard, but we can get into that later.)

    Let us know how you come out, and do remember to turn the power pack OFF when you quit for the night! :D
     

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