I am seeking the best tried and true method for securing ballast. I have built some modules in the past and used several styles. Some folks say use alcahol and white glue, etc. Well I have to build a module for the NMRA Golden Spike Award and need to make sure that it will hold up during transport. So i figure I would ask here as I am sure that there is someone here who has done what I am about to do. Please help me out with the simple best methods.
Hi Raymond, This has worked for me through the years. I use a very fine grade of crushed limestone. After I've made sure that I'm happy with the trackwork and all is running nicely, I paint the track and ties with a Rustoleum camouflage dark brown spray paint. I like to ballast my track before I do the rest of the scenery. I don't suppose that it is critical to do one before the other. I use a spoon for scooping ballast and lay it along the centerline of the track. I then take a fairly small soft paint brush (up to a 1/4 inch wide) and spread the ballast. Some will work to the outsides of the rails. I try and keep the ballast slightly below the tops of the ties, but that's just a personal thing. In real life you see many different amounts of ballast on track. If need be, I add a little extra ballast to the outside area of the track and use the brush to get it in place. The last thing that I do is to take something like a spoon or other slightly heavy metal object and tap it lightly along the railheads. I hold it like a drumstick and continually tap the loose end up and down the rail. This will help settle the ballast and help remove any that is sitting on the ties. I like to use Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (the lower 70% percent is good) to pre-wet the ballast so the glue will immediately soak in and not bubble up on top of the ballast. I place it in a spray bottle that will spray a mist. I then soak a few feet of ballast fairly well with it. Next I use a mixture of Elmers white glue and water, 4 parts water to one part glue and a drop of liquid detergent (for super wetting) in an applicator bottle. If you can find a squeeze bottle with a twist open/close top, that works well. I use an Elmer's white glue bottle that has been emptied. Mustard squeeze bottle is another one that should work. I place the mix of water/glue/detergent in the bottle and shake it well. You will have some bubbling from the detergent but that will go away if you let it sit for a short time. You can also open the twist top and squeeze some of the bubbles out and then close it. Now you are ready to apply the glue to the track. Turn the bottle upside down over the track and slowly open the twist top till you can squeeze the bottle and control the drops of glue coming out. Just start soaking (and I mean soaking) the ballast and track with the glue. With the prewetting alcohol and the drop of detergent added, the glue will soak right into the ballast. If it bubbles up on top of the ballast and doesn't soak in, then give the area another quick shot of alcohol. This isn't necessarily going to look pretty, but leave it several hours to setup and dry. You'll be surprised how good it looks once it is dry. I like to use white glue since it is water soluable and if at a later date I decide that I want to make changes to the track, it is easy to soak the ballast with water and remove it and the track with minimal damage. Try a test length of track and see how you like it. Let me know how it works out and please feel free to contact me if you have any other questions. Hope this helps!
I've been following a thread on the Model Railroader forums about one-step ballast gluing that looks interesting. It is titled "Alcoholic ballast" (http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=60672). Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but it sounds like it should work with a bonus of reducing the wetting/gluing steps. Here's a summary of the steps: 1. Put your ballast of choice into position using your method of choice. 2. Dilute matte medium (of the non-glossy variety) with 70% isopropyl alcohol using a ratio of 1/2 TEAspoon medium to 3 TABLEspoons of alcohol. 3. Apply gluing solution to ballast with an eyedropper. 4. Wait for it to dry. Reportedly, this results in a well glued but rubbery ballast that is more flexible than white glue techniques (not a thing wrong with those, btw) and looks like nothing has been applied to the ballast. Might be worth a try for a transportable module.
Andy. Thanks for the advice, I have heard of that method being used by a wide array of people but had it discribed in a simpler way. I will be doing that the next week or two. I will be using Woodland Scenics fine ballast on code 83. Will that work as easy as the limestone that you like to use? Mark, I may try that method out, that is a completely new one to me, will have to look into that. Thanks
Hi Raymond, I have heard some people say that it is harder to work with and others say it worked well. Guess it would be best to try it and see how you like it. If you haven't purchased any ballast yet, you may want to look at getting the heavier ballast. I have no connection with Harley Smith except that I bought 150 pounds of his ballast and really like it. He sells it for $2 a pound plus shipping and will ship you as much as you want. I placed an info sheet and order form in my railimages album since so many people were wanting more info on it. If you're interested, you'll find it on page #3 of the album.
If you do try it before I do, please post a critique of the method. I'll post my observations when I try it, but it may be a while. Interviewing for a new job tomorrow that would cause a relocation (and much work around the house to ready it for selling). Downside would be no modeling time for the next couple of months . But the upside would be more money and a chance to select a railroad-friendly (as in large basement) dwelling .
Andy, I will stick with the tried and true Woodland Scenics for this small layout. I looked at your photos of your laout and all I can say is WOW I hope that you will keep us updated with pics as you go along. I really would like to see the finsihed product when that day arrives. I love the HUGE model of the Indy station. You should try to get that into MR mag when it is complete.
Hi Raymond, Thank you much for the kind words regarding the layout. I have a long ways to go but will posts pics of as I progress (through the years!!). I've started adding CTC signaling and have just ordered a bunch of Oregon Rail Supply signal kits for the first section to be signaled.
i have found that 'Aleene Tacky glue" sold at walmart in a big bronze colored bottle is the best glue to use. it is slightly thicker, is easier to dilute and dries slightly flexible. its also just as cheap. I have used the alcool and glue for my layout and it works fine. instead of using the bristle brush i use a foam one , i findi it easier to control where the ballast goes
