I'm debating how to connect tracks between portable layout modules on an N Scale modular layout. I had thought to solder the rail ends at the module edges to brass screws sunk into the module. I know that N-Trak suggest terminating the track before the module edges and using 5" long joining rails ; some club members have used printed circuit board and soldered the rails to that. Any thoughts or suggestions ?
The HO modular group I belong to (www.hotrak.ca) has standards that call for terminating the rail attached to the module with 3" of "snap track" so that the rails are held in place well back from the edge. The joiners are 6" pieces of snap track. This standard does not apply to modules that are always joined together. There is no standard for this - each owner comes up with his own solution. Some simply let the flex track run to the edge and slide rail joiners underneath. Others use the screw idea you mention above. I have not used, but definitely like this solution: http://www.lcpinternational.co.uk/cl/#Baseboard Construction Scroll down a bit to see the "end protectors" and link to a picture. Andrew
Steve - if you intend to move your modules from one site to another I would strongly advise you to end the rails short of the end of the module. Reason: if the rails are located at the end of the module, there's a good chance the ends of the rails will get bent or torn up from contacting one thing or another while in transit.
If you can be assured of a consistent alignment between the modules, you can saw a re-railer in half and secure the two pieces to the modules right up to the edge. This gives you a relatively strong piece of track at the module edge that can be nailed down and will resist damage if bumped when the modules are apart. You can ballast over the sides of the re-railer pieces to disguise them.
The long and short on joining module tracks... I've been building modules and attending shows for six years or so now, and have seen a number of solutions to this issue. There's the NTrak way: cut your rails back 2.5" and use a 5" piece of Atlas snap-track to drop into the gap, slide on joiners, and you're done. There's the Z scale way (or modified N scale): use expandable track from Marklin in Z or Kato in N to bridge the gap (rails being cut back from the ends a certain distance to facilitate this). There's the drop-in plate way (useful in yards): have a straight gap cut down between the modules, and a plate with the tracks glued on to it that is just dropped into place, and slide joiners to connect the rails. There's Russell's way: use re-railer pieces cut and secured down at the ends of the modules. You have to make sure of good modules alignment in this case, though (and that's tricky unless you build them yourself or in a good coordinated effort with buddies). There's Galveston NTrak's way: They built all the modules together, join them with hinges and removable pins (neat system), laid the track across between them, cut it with a dremel, and ballast firmly in place. They have a minimal number of issues, and clean transitions and alignment. There's the Sipping & Switching Society of NC's way (see Great Model Railroads 2006): They screw down strips of pc board to the ends of modules and solder the rails to them. They have been building modules for 25+ years to the same template and have no problems setting up enormous HO layouts in under 2 hours (in different configurations at each show!) Look them up on the web for more on their great layout! Let's see... What haven't I covered... I think that about sums it up. There's no right or wrong way, just your preferred way based on your experiences. Personally I think the "catching things on the ends" is kinda a cop-out that results from people not paying attention during the most critical times of dealing with modules (after construction) and that's set-up and tear-down at shows. If people paid attention to what they were doing and watched where their baggy clothes were hanging, they wouldn't snag on rail or scenery or buildings, etc. I'm all about making the process of set-up and tear-down as quick and easy as possible. But to facilitate this you have to have good design and construction in your modules to make sure the track alignment is right every time. Otherwise, use one of the cut-back and drop-in expander options. That will pretty much take care of module-related issues such as expansion and contraction due to humidity (paint everything and use good wood to minimize!) or a situation where someone can't read a ruler and cuts track too far from the edge. Good luck! Adam
Guys...many thanks for the advice and suggestions from you all. Appreciated. My modules are aligned using steel dowel pins for accuracy so I like the idea of the re-railers Russell mentioned, and am also tempted by Adam's dremel solution. I'm using PECO Code 55 on the "visible" section of the layout and Code 80 in the staging area ; I cannot recall PECO selling re-railers in N scale...I guess you refer to Atlas ones ? Adam, your comment on the set up / strip down process strikes a chord with me...I've been thinking about transportation & protection jigging that will allow the modules to be successfully stacked in the hatch of my automobile. Cheers, Steve
Andrew I see what you mean about the end protectors...a good solution. Added bonus for me that this company is UK based so should be easy to get hold of. Thanks, Steve
Steve, The above mentioned club (www.hotrak.ca) uses "end plates" to pair modules together for transport. By slightly oversizing the end plates, you can protect the ends and sides of your modules (more or less) if so desired. I can get 2 1/2 pairs of 2x4 foot modules into my 1995 VW Golf. That's two pairs, plus one slid in on top, with enough room for a cover if desired. See http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15104 for pictures. The end plates would pair the modules that are sitting on their sides in the picture. Andrew
Thanks Andrew. I have looked at your club website...excellent...and picked up some useful tips...including one about straight track between opposing curves (I guess to avoid the "S" curve problem ?). I like the end plate idea and will implement it on my three modules...I have to get them into the hatch of a Peugeot 205 ! (Fortuneately I checked dimensions before building !)
Steve, Glad the web site helped you. One of our members has set up his own site, with a step by step on module construction. Some of the techniques have changed slightly, but it remains a good resource. It is photo-heavy though, so may take a while if you do not have high-speed of some sort. Take a look for the DCC/module links at: www.railwaybob.com Note that what I call "end plates" might be called "carry plates" on the club's or Bob's sites. The Peugeot 205 looks to be about the same size as the Golf (or thereabouts). I can get a 4 foot long module behind the front seats (with rear seats folded). It is almost an exact fit. Leaves the front seat for my toolbox and rolling stock transportation! Andrew
I bolt all of my modules together with end plates in groups of two or three for transport and storage. I installed heavy duty drawer handles on the outside of each end plate to help in moving them around.
Guys Really appreciate the comments and links you've all posted...have been very helpful. I'm hoping to get my three module N scale layout ready for our August club meet and exhibition. One question...I've topped the modules with StyroFoam and hadn't intended to use cork roadbed but rather had thought to lay the PECO track straight onto the foam. Good idea or not ? Any thoughts ? Thanks...
Are you layout mainlines or sidings? Use cork under the mainlines, don't under sidings or industries. Just shave or sand the cork to make a gentle slope down to the siding, spur, or industry track. They didn't spend much money on those. Railroads have well built-up roadbeds under their mainlines, and nice, neat ballast (for the most part, it does depend on what road, location and era you're modeling) for good drainage. Adam
Adam The layout will be mainline plus a few spurs, so I'll follow your advice and use cork under the two mainline loops ; thanks. I'm modelling SP (or at least trying to !) late 1950s to late 1960s so I guess they would have had a very good roadbed. I'm also planning a short "street running" section ; I have been inspired by the "Street Running" video from Pentrex. Amazing...we don't have anything like this in the UK. I thought to bury the rails using styrene strips in the middle and down each edge of the rails, ensuring sufficient wheel clearance. Any thoughts on this ?
At my former club we used the modified Unitrack version. VERY quick setup, but didn't look especially good. Of course, neither did our modules so it worked out. Two people could connect 25 N-Trak spec modules in about 10 minutes, no kidding. It usually took a little bit longer because we would have to replace a railjoiner here and there, but it went quickly.
