Hi all, as I've just received my MTL turnouts, I've also noticed that my wonderful AZL SD70 have a trend to derail while proceeding accross frog and guardrails. As I've purchased a MTL track gauge I've noticed, like others before myself, that my SD70 wheel gauge is a little bit narrow and need to be widened. So I'm looking after the experience of those who have already done it. How did you proceed? Did you simply use a jewellery screwdriver? Isn't there a risk of bending or even worth, twisting the wheel and/or axle doing this? Or did you take these beauties appart in order to have a direct access to both the lower side and upper side of the trucks and wheelset? I'm not very enthusiastic about taking appart these jewels.... BTW every input is welcome here! Dominique
I used 2 jewelers screwdrivers, one from each side and gently pried the wheels outwards from the axle. Some people like to take the trucks apart to do each axle and verify it is gauged all the way around, but I don't bother going to all that trouble.
Robert, What's that MTL gauge? I did my SD70 without it and it took a while to get it right. I did use a small screwdriver.
elementary my dear Watson :shade: picture on the MTL web page shows N gauge version, for Z the part number is: [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] #988 00 032 Coupler Height Gauge (Old #920) you can get it from my favorite shop: http://www.zscalemonster.com/mt/tool/tool.htm for $7.28 Chris [/FONT][/FONT]
Wish they would put the damn part numbers for things like this in the catalog and website, they might sell more ! I was going to get one and couldn't find the part number.
I received the MTL gauge and it's a big help. I got some MTL flextrack and turnouts down for a small loop and it's pretty cool.
Keith, Wait till you get the BLMA fans, diesel detail set, and cut levers, then start detailing up a GP35... That's when you look at your work and start feeling real good about Z Scale!
Hi all, it's done, I've just regauged my SD70s. Like some of the people here, I was encountering problems when operating my AZL SD70s on brand new MTL turnouts, and so on Wright samples. -So I first filed guardrails on my turnouts, it partially solvered the problem. Meanwhile my MTL GP35 were operating smoothly on my MTL turnouts, because both are from the same brand. Wondering how to solve the problem with my SD70s (and furthermore, with all my AZLs), some people on the Z scale Yahoo Groups forum gave me the advise to file my guardrails, and other people gave me the advise to regauge my locos with a MTL gauge. Fortunately a fair number of years ago I purchased a MTL gauge, which was still in its package until 2 weeks ago. I opened that package when it appeared obvious I had to regauge my AZL SD70s. As these wonderful loco's packaging doesn't recommand any taking appart, I was reluctant to do anything on them. BTW I followed some of the forum's members' prescription, and I only took my MTL gauge and a jeweller's screwdriver. I only pushed one wheel outwards on each axle, in order to fit the MTL gauge. Two of my three locos were immediately available. The third unit was suffering of problems afterwards: its two trucks were twisted regarding each other: that meant when the loco was on its rails, the LH wheels on aft truck were slightly standing above the rail, maybe 0.5 millimeter (sorry for you american fellows who are still working with inches, 1/4, 5/16, 9367/14806467 inches <wink> - whichever the value, the problem remains the same). And then, two guys of the Yahoo Groups Z scale forum gave me the way to follow: first I had to take the loco appart: while holding the chassis from the fuel tank, slightly rock the shell back and forth holding it from the cab, until feeling it's free to be removed from the chassis. Once both are separated, take a jeweller's screwdriver, and only check the copper contact coming from the trucks: they have to touch copper contacts which are underneath the chassis on their LOWER SIDE (when I regauged my axles, on each truck one of the two contacts moved on the upper side of the chassis's lower copper contact - so I only took a jeweller's screwdriver to put them on their fair location). (If you have any doubts of how the things have to be on their normal status, remove the shell from the chassis PRIOR to doing anything regarding regauging, and look carefully how the different copper contacts are put together) And this done (all the process only took 3 minutes), only put the shell back on its location, and everything is done. Hope this helps, Dominique
Robert, That sounds like fun, I am waiting on some CA. The 2x4 layout is "in the way" and may become a 2x6 is over the desk to make better use of space.