Here's another in what's turning out to be a series of Unitrack hacks. The first, the 'bryan9, hassle-free, zero cost feeder solution,' is described here. Today's hack: Code 55 Unitrack! One of the drawbacks to Kato's popular N scale Unitrack is the unprototypically large Code 80 rail. Although it's OK for big-time main lines, it doesn't look right on sidings and in yards. For this reason, some Unitrack layouts employ Unitrack for the main line and other types of track, such as Peco or Atlas, for yards and sidings. If that's what bugs you about Unitrack, I'm happy to report a discovery.* It is a cinch to remove the Code 80 track from straight and curved track sections and insert Code 55 track in its place. The result is a track section with the following characteristics: Correct guage Works with low-profile Micro-Trains wheels Works with Atlas and Kato locomotives Does not work with Micro-Trains "pizza cutter" wheels The following explains and illustrates the technique, which is almost ridiculously easy. In 10 minutes of work, you should be able to modify five or six track sections. Note: In theory, at least, it should be possible to create Code 55 turnouts using the techniques described here. This would require much more work, of course, as well as a Code 55 turnout to cannibalize. I'm planning to give this a try, but haven't yet. Removing the Code 80 Rail To remove the Code 80 rail, do the following: 1. Remove the Unijoiner. 2. With a pair of pliers, grasp the end of the rail, and pull firmly away from the track section. Be sure to pull parallel to the track section's surface. You may have to tug for a moment to get the rail moving. The rail slides out easily once you've got it moving: Inserting the Code 55 Rail To insert the Code 55 rail, do the following: 1. Working with a section of rail that is longer than the track section, insert one end into the large black cleat near the Unijoiner slot. You can see this large black cleat in the following photograph: 2. Gently push the rail into place. It slides easily under the Unitrack 'spikes,' which serve to guide the track on all but the most radical curves; if the rail meets resistance, a little gentle guidance from one's index finger will do the trick. 3. Stop pushing the rail when the end is perfectly square and flush with the end of the track section. At this point you have a track section with some excess rail hanging off of one end. 4. Mark the place where you'll trim the rail, once again making sure that the rail, when cut, will be perfectly square and flush with the end of the track section. 5. Withdraw the rail a little so you can cut it with a pair of track cutters. You could also cut it with a razor saw. 6. Push the rail back into place and attach a Unijoiner. 7. Repeat Steps 1 through 6 for the other rail. Results Here's how your new section of Code 55 Unitrack (left) looks in comparison to Code 80 Unitrack (right): Code 55 Unitrack and Flange Depth Code 55 Unitrack works fine with low-profile MT wheels and all of the Kato and Atlas locos in my roster. It does NOT work with "pizza cutters," however, as the following photograph attests: the flanges come into contact with the 'spikes,' making for a rather bumpy ride. On the left are MT's low-profile wheels; the "pizza cutters" are on the right. Caution: Before converting a lot of your Unitrack to Code 55, make sure that your rolling stock will work with it. Transition to Code 80 To create a simple, easy transition to Code 80 track, do the following: 1. Insert two unijoiners at the end of the Code 80 track section to which you want to connect. 2. With a razor saw, carefully cut the metal part of the Unijoiner connecter at the end of the Code 80 rail and down to the top of the plastic base of the Unijoiner. 3. With a pair of needlenose pliers, mash the exposed end of the metal connector so that it is as flat as possible. 4. Connect the Code 55 track section to the Code 80 track section, making sure that the Code 55 rails go over (instead of into) the metal part of the Unijoiner. The result, shown in a photograph in my Railimages folder, may need a bit of tweaking and filing. However, do NOT file the Kato Code 80 rail in order to make the connection smooth. Doing so will destroy the finish, necessitating more frequent cleaning. Note: It's best to avoid creating transitions involving Code 55 curve track. After mashing the Code 55 end of the Unijoiner, there's nothing left to make sure the Code 55 rail continues to curve properly at the end, where it joins the Code 80 rail. You could bend it a bit, or solder, but the best bet would be to make all your transitions using nothing but straight track. There are undoubtedly other (and probably better) ways to create a transition; this one works, and it's free. Please post suggestions here! Also, for those of you who give this a try, please report any rolling stock or locos that won't work. --Bryan Pfaffenberger aka 'bryan9' Charlottesville, VA -------- *Well, at least I think it's my discovery; if I'm mistaken, please let me know so I can credit whoever thought of this first!
Bryan and all tuned in, Amazing, and presented like a pro. "How To Kit Bash Unitrack" excellent. Keep bringing it back to TB.
Only if they would also change that tie size and spacing. To the naked eye the rail height difference between code 55 and code 80 is not all that noticable (it does stand out in close up photos). What is most noticable is the tie size and spacing that are not close to US prototype rails. This is what the problem is with Peco code 55 with its European tie layout. Another question is how are you going to transition the rail back up at the turnouts?
A certain east coast track mfr is rumored to be coming out with C55 with built in roadbed/ballast...Not sure of the timeframe though...
Oooh... If that turns out to be true, I'm going to have to: A. Change my pants. B. Rip out all of my code 80 and re-lay with that stuff!!!
Transitioning back to Code 80 - the "Squish" Technique It's buried at the end of a rather lengthy post, I realize, but there is a "transition" section. (See my post at the start of this thread.) Basically, you squish half of a Unijoiner and connect the Code 55 rail on top of the squished Unijoiner. (I developed this technique after learning of similar strategems used by HO modelers.) Hack on, Bryan
Better pic showing contrast between Code 55 and Code 80 The pic I originally posted didn't really capture the difference. This is better: Code 55 left, Code 80 right. OK, the tie spacing sucks. In return, you get reliable operation. The alternative is to spend the next 5 years learning master carpentry so you can establish a perfectly graded platform for your flextrack. --bryan9 (as in Plan 9 From Outer Space) NEXT UNITRACK HACK: HOW TO TAP A UNITRACK TURNOUT'S INNARDS TO POWER ILLUMINATED SWITCH POSITION INDICATORS --- ON YOUR PANEL, ON YOUR LAYOUT, WHATEVER -- IN FIVE MINUTES AND AT ZERO COST (EXCEPT FOR LEDS) ... AND WITH NO COMPLICATED WIRING, WEIRD ELECTRONIC GADGETS, OR HASSLE! Yippie. I love Unitrack. It reminds me of Linux, which I also hack. :teeth:
That works well when transitioning normal flex because you can shim the track up and then your ballast levels out the transition. That is the method most commonly used when people use Peco turnouts with either Atlas or ME code 55 track. If you do that with your code 55 unitrack piece, your roadbeds would not be at the same level. You would have to cut off the "key" section of the unitrack (which is the whole advantage that unitrack has) and that leaves you with a plain old sectional track joint that just costs more. With the money you're spending on unitrack and code 55 rail to replace the code 80 with, you could hire a carpenter to build it for you:teeth:
Could we get back to code 55 unitrack please? Well, it seems to me that the roadbeds are at exactly the same level. -- it's just that the rail seems to get bigger. Even after mashing the metal part of the Unijoiner, the plastic part still makes a positive connection and locks the two track sections together. The result is that it is very easy to implement a transition that almost certainly would require time-consuming procedures, including soldering, with other types of track.
Bryan I commend you for your investigation into kitbashing Unitrack, great idea looks great. In my case I am not going to worry about it at least not at this stage. I will use kato's transition pieces, albeit at a greater cost perhaps for the yard and turntable tracks only. After all I got to get the plan done and trains running first. I
Sorry, but I do not see how that is possible. If you replace the code 80 rail with the code 55 rail, the roadbed + rail thickness will be .025 thinner than the code 80 + roadbed thickness. If you place the two rail tops level, the roadbed that is attached to the code 55 rail will be .025 higher.
Right, I see. Thanks for the great visual explanation! You're right, of course. I didn't realize you included "rail" with "roadbed." Here's how the transition with the "squished" Unijoiners looks (before tweaking): This transition is similar to the one you'd get in HO using Micro-engineering's transition rail joiners, such as the following: Except that the squished Unijoiners still hold the track sections together. --Bryan [/quote]
Great post Bryan! I've sent many requests to Kato to produce a code 55 Unitrack and I've never heard a response from them. It would seem like a 'no-brainer' for them to simply use c55 rail in the existing plastic roadbed and create new c55 turnouts as well. Your method looks very do-able even for a Neanderthal like me. Keep up the great work and keep us informed of the turnout project... and DO let Kato know that it is really not a difficult process for them to provide this FACTORY made product. NOW... getting back to the post that alluded to a future product which would be c55 'Ready Track' in N scale... That would be a real stunning development which 'could' kill Kato's dominance in this field in the USA. Makes me wonder if I should pack-up my Unitrack and sell it now.
Several of the Atlas C55 curved sectional pieces seem to be the same radii as Unitrack pieces. Now, if they only made a #6 turnout and a 28.25" 15d section, I might be able to replace most or all of my Unitrack. ~Tim
Awesome idea. I made the switch from unitrack to code 55, simply do to eventual total cost of the turnouts I was looking to use. Now I may be able to use my unitrack, making it code 55 and also use my fast tracks #8 turnouts. Any tips on converting the unitrack #6 turnouts? Steve
