Yeah really this (B-mann 2-6-6-2) is the first time I have wanted to literally throw the locomotive against the wall. Even after messing with all the rods and getting them out of the way. The front still wobbles and bounces. The problem is somewhere in the front drivers. So if you get one that runs good, don't touch it, you got lucky. This wasn't a Erie locomotive, but I thought it would be cool to run... so much for that.
Is there a way to tell a newer run from an old? I passed on these too because of the negative press - too bad too because I wouldn't have minded a C&O and a NKP. Fddling too much with a costly steamer to get it to run decent is just not an option for me.
When the drivers rotate eccentrically , you know the loco is in bad shape. The problem with this loco was with both sets of drivers. I have three that run well.All I did was install decoders in the group. The tender is still way too light and needs some weight added in the form of a toolbox or inside the tender shell itself. Stay cool and run steam....
As far as I know you can't tell the new from the old, but B-mann will trade a bad one in on a newer one. You will probably need your receipts for this though, I don't know. IF they fixed the gauge problem, they would have also had to fix the valve gear. Once you move the wheels out where they should be, then other problems start. Maybe they just bent the gear out of the way on the new ones??? Also the rear trailing truck...if you pop the wheel out and gauge it correctly, it won't fit back in the truck without filing the insides out to make room. Did B-mann fix this too??? I guess I wouldn't worry about buying one, only worry how B-mann will fix the problem for you. Over on "Ask the Bach-man" I've read of people sending back a bad loco only to get a bad (but different) one back. This makes me wonder just what they "fixed" Lot's of questions still.
I think the only objection I have with mine is the sound. It is a bit noisy on the layout, but really quiet running on Kato Unitrak. It will pull twenty cars around the layout, which is about a normal train for me, so I'm happy. I am glad I didn't pay 180.00 for it. It sure looks good in action, I love watching all those rods and vavles move! I don't think I would take a chance on getting another one though, I don't want to press my luck!
Bill: I agree with you on that one. Don't tempt the hand of fate. You were lucky to get one that works right out of the box with no adjustments. Stay cool and run steam..... [ January 12, 2006, 12:55 PM: Message edited by: Powersteamguy1790 ]
Bill: I've added 7 grams of A-line weight to all the tenders on the JJJ&E. You can do this in several ways. Add the weight inside the tender shell, or make a toolbox from styrene with the weight inside and mount this under the frame between the trucks. The added weight improves tracking and electrical conductivity. Stay cool and run steam......
Bill: Does the 2-6-6-2 stall when going through curves or turnouts?By pressing your finger on the coal load of the tender, you'll see how added pressure improves the tender tracking. That's why you need the added weight. Stay cool and run steam.....
I did have some problem with that. but I cleaned the post the tender drawbar hooks on and it fixed the stalling problems I had with it.
That fix usually corrects that problem. With the Spectrum 2-8-0's that was a continuous problem. I solved that by scraping the post with a utility knife. Steam loco's do have their own "Character", not found with diesels. If I remember correctly the Spectrum 2-8-0 had a NP roadname. Next to the Mikado and MDC 2-8-0, this is probably the best American made steamer. However like any loco, there are some duds out there, usually from the initial run. Stay cool and run steam....
I'm going to have to add weight. It does quite well forward through the switches, but backwards is a joke.
Pete: You can add A-Line lead sheets above the cylinders of each unit, Chris did this to his 2-6-6-2. I did it to the one I returned. Try scaping the paint off the drawbar post with a utility knife first. Stay cool and run steam....
Guys, I purchased one of the Bachmann 2-6-6-2 locos when I was in LA last spring got it home and attempted to run it on my layout . No good luck there, checked the drivers for correct gage and found that they were all under gage as were the pilot and trailing truck. I corrected the gage and put it back on the track, the thing ran about 1 foot and the connecting rods gamed the valve gear stopping the loco in its tracks :shake. I sent Bachmann an e-mail regarding the problem and a couple of days later I received a phone call from them telling me to send it back which I did . About 2 weeks later I received a replacement. I attempted to put it on the track however one set of drivers was gaged so wide that the flanges rode on top of the rail head . I was very leery of what they had sent, however decided to check the wheel gage and found they all were tight (except the one set) corrected the gage put it on the track and this replacement had the same problem. I sent another e-mail, got another phone call from some gal at Bachmann. She said that the loco was test ran before it was sent to me (I think that it was as the wheels had the black worn off) not sure how ? When I told her what my thoughts were regarding the replacement she told me to take it up with some guy (cant remember his name) who designed the loco but she did not have his phone number or e-mail address when I ask for it . I put the thing on the shelf until last weekend when I decided to look at it closer to see if there was an easy fix. I discovered that there was too much side motion in the drivers so I put a washer behind each driver to center the drivers on the frame. This allowed the connecting rods to hold the required clearance with the valve gear. Put the loco back on the track, ran it forward around the layout and did the same in reverse with out any major problems . The unit is a little noisy but got quieter the more I ran it so I decided to throw a decoder in it and then checked the pulling capacity. Well I found it is not a great puller, guess I will have to add some weight . I did add weight to the tender to improve the electrical pick up which helped a lot. This loco looks better and cost far more than any steamer that Bachmann has produced in the past, however it has taken more to get it to run than any of the others .
Hi Boilerman Welcome to the forum and thanks for the good post on your fix for the 2-6-6-2. Maybe the Bachmann guy will read your post and do your fix at the factory during assembly (it would be a cheap solution for Bachmann). That's a difficult fix for most folks to do after they get the loco home, though and shouldn't be neccessary on a loco that pricey. That you developed this fix is a tribute to your mechanical/modeling skills. I had the same problem - the replacement Bachmann sent me also stopped working after about 30 minutes of running. I had another fix that wasn't nearly so elegant - I removed one of the smaller pieces of valve gear from the forward set of drivers on each side. I guess we'll have to wait on the Athearn Challenger to see if someone can get an articulated right (other than Microace and Rivarossi).
Yeah, here are those weights I added. There is more up in the pilot deck, every nook I could get it into (I did go a little over board ) I also did the washers behind the drivers to center them, it worked.
I used the red KaDee fiber washers. (made for shimming trucks) Cut a small notch in them so they look like a PacMan, they will clip onto the axle, stay, and if you want to remove them, just pull them out.
