I am currently without a layout so I am using my unitrack. I have the basic loop K1 with the switch set K2. I have it set up in a oval with one switch coming off the main and the farther the train gets from the switch it slows down but as sson as it get back to the switch it speeds back up. Any idea why it does this? It is not a big loop. Kevin
you might have a little hair or dust in it i have the K1 set and love it try cleaning it and see what happens
The K-1 is relatively small, so I would rule out loss of current over a long stretch as an issue. I would suggest taking two track sections from the slow area and swap them for two sections in the good area. If you see the slowness move with the track swap, you have isolated the issue to track. Now, make sure the joints are making good contact, clean with appropriate solution and try again. If it still is no good, examine the connections between the tracks for anything that may look out of place.
How many feeders are you running to the track? Do you have a feeder on either side of the switch? If not the train will slow down. Your probably have a feeder on the side of the switch where the train is fast, and it slows on the other side of the switch because there is no feeder. At a minimum you would need feeders every 3 feet, and on either side of the switch. This will balance the power output to the trak and resolve the speed up slow down issue.
Use three sets of feeders for each turnout. On the JJJ&E, all sections of Unitrack have feeders. Turnouts have three sets of feeders. Crossovers (30 degree) have four sets of feeders. This suggestion is for permanent layouts. However you might want to add feeders to the turnout. Stay cool and run steam...
I did add a feeder after your sugjestions and it worked, or made it less noticable, however now one of the screws on my power pack as striped out. Ugggghh, always something. Kevin
Are you using the Kato power pack? If so PM or e-mail me. I have an extra power pack minus the power cord. Here's a good time to reinterate DO NOT plug the Kato power pack cord into anything other than the pack. By accident I pluged it into my Makita drill to recharge it. Burned the cord up. Kato does not sell cords alone. You have to buy the entire power pack. An $49 lesson:angry: Happy New Year Everyone Bruce
Sounds like the additional feeder helped/worked. But IMO, with such a small layout (K1 & K2) there should not be an issue like that. how much/how many times have you taken the unitrack apart and put back together? if a lot, then that can be the problem. The unijoiners can wear, get dirty, loose, etc the more track is taken apart/reconnected. especially if not handled carefully. The easy fix is to buy a small bag of replacement unijoiners for a couple $ and replace them.
I got my power pack working but thank you for the offer Bruce. Adding the second feeder helped a lot. I have had the unitrak for proably 10 years now and has been taken apart many time before. I did forgett to mention there are about 6 extra straight sections in there but still it is still not a big loop. Kevin
An elementary follow-up question, I'm trying to decide whether to use Uni or flex track for most of my first layout. Will using large sections of flex track reduce the number of feeders needed since there are less 'connections' in the track?
Kevin, You mentioned that you have Unitrack which is about 10 yrs old. When Unitrack was originally developed it had copper/brass unijoiners to connect the track segments. It was found that the copper/brass unijoiners connected to the nickel silver track used in Unitrack was causing some conductivity issues. Is it possible that you have copper/brass unijoiners instead of the newer nickel silver unijoiners in one or more of your track segments?
