Well, after careful planning and many months of research, I've decided to take on a scratch building project. The only problem is, I don't know how to go about making a boiler from scratch. Do I roll a sheet of brass/styrene into the correct diameter? I've searched everywhere for tips on scratchbuilding, but nothing is really helpful on construction. Many thanks. ~MJC P.S. Does anyone know where I can get steam detail parts? My LHS only has diesel detail parts. And I can't seem to find 67 - 69 inch drivers.
Thanks for the replies guys. I've checked out the links from the board, but I've already read those, and I don't get much information as far as making boilers is concerned. But they are very helpful in other areas. @ Jason, I'm doing this in HO. and @ watash, I checked that out, but its not the prototype I'm planning. Good price though, I thought about picking that up.
From memory I think most people start with a piece of stock styrene, brass or copper tube if there is one available the right diameter. If not, or if it is a tapered boiler, then you'll have to 'roll-your-own' - though it may be easiest to start with a piece of metal tube near the right size, split it, and then open/close it to the required shape and size. Fireboxes and stuff would be built up with solid plastic at the edges and sheet stuff along the flat areas. You then set to with files and sandpaper to shape the edges as needed. No ideas on where to get parts I'm afraid, but thinking about wheels I know that getting the frame built spot on is essential for a good runner. And that is about everything I know on that subject Good luck.
There was a series in Model Railroader a few years ago that showed somebody scratchbuilding a locomotive. He gave some pretty good details on how to roll your boiler. The series was reproduced in the book Steam Projects put out a couple of years ago. I can scan it and email it to you. Eric
If you decide to roll it from sheet, Marmon Clamps work wonders. Keep in mind to wet your sand box ever so often. The heat from soldering will draw off the moisture and you loose the heat sink effect rapidly. Try to work from the inside, and use plenty of tabs to tie the sections together.
