Don't mean to run this into the ground all but I couldn't find anything on this subject. I got a Kato GP38-2 one from the last run they did and want to remove the shell for repainting and don't know how and don't want to destroy the shell or other part so HELP!!!!!!!!! Thanks Fred
I'm pretty positive that the second run Kato GP38-2 (we're talking blue label box, early '90s right?) is the same design as the GP50. The following instructions are based on the GP50, so if they seem wrong, stop. It was a very poor design, as you shall see... > First, you should understand that unlike newer N scale locos, the running board and handrail piece does not come off with the upper part of the shell. First step is therefore to carefully pull the handrails out from the four places where they fit into the cab. > Next: The main part of the shell is held onto the running board with two plastic clips at either end of the loco. From beneath, you'll want to CAREFULLY pry these clips toward the middle of the loco, with a small screwdriver. If the loco has it's original truck mounted couplers, you should be able to just swivel them out of the way, but if it has body mounted couplers you will probably (unfourtunately) have to remove them to access the clips. BTW, the battery covers under the cab may come loose from the rest of the shell when you remove it. From there, if you wish to further disassemble... > Slip off the fuel tank. (The metal weight inside is separate and can be removed now or after the last step.) > Next you will unscrew the four screws visible at the top of the mech frame. This will release the metal parts that hold the trucks in place. Before you do any of this, take VERY careful note (for reassembly) of where the stainless motor cover and the copper motor lead are attached. Also note which side of the lightboard (the side without the lights) is the top. > Once the trucks are off you can unclip the runningboard from the frame. Do this with the frame upside down so that the motor and drivetrain don't fall out. (sigh...) Hope that helps. PS. When you reassmble... >The copper motor contact on the right side of the loco goes UNDER the stainless motor cover. (Similar to newer Kato lightboards.) > The fuel tank is useful in holding the metal truck holders in place before you put the screws back in. >Getting the shell back on is a pain in the ass.
Jagged Ben has it nailed. The second run 38-2's are the same design as the GP50. The first run is similar in design as well.
Yup. You'll never appreciate a modern Kato diesel design unless you've tried to tear one of those puppies apart. Good thing they run well and that getting in there is at worst, a biannual event just to put some lubrication in and leave!
The complexity is one of the reasons I repowered a few Kato GP38s and GP50s with Atlas GP40/40-2 mechs.
I bought a couple of these used with broken handrails. No problem, I just ordered new parts from Kato. I remember the process of disassembly and reassembly... and reassembly... and... you get the idea. I also remember the time when the motor dropped out and the bushings fell off. Again, I was confident I could put her back together... until I looked down to see this teeny tiny little black plastic "X" on the bench and wondered, "what is that little thing and where does that go?" It was part of the universal and very much necessary it turns out. I almost needed an extra pair of hands to hold that mess... I mean "assembly" together while putting it back in the frame. Are you certain you want to take yours apart??? I'm certain I will have nightmares now thinking about that project.
I can second that they are great pullers. Worth keeping instead of an Atlas if you pull longer trains.
HI i have 3 gp38s and 2 gp50s all kato and all 5 are hard pullers i can pull 55 coal cars with eny 2 units. i would keep the engine you have
My Kato GP38 outpulls my Atlas by more than 2. The Atlas is now in the display case. I got it to replace the Kato (mostly due to electrical reliability on the lack of original Kato pickups) and it couldn't pull the train it was assigned to. If you redetail these, I think they still look good. I redid the handrails, put on a plow, repainted and decalled it, and have the coolest-ever scale sized working strobe with a Stratolite pattern on it as an expirimental build by Richmond Controls. Hoo-Rah! As long as it is paired with another unit, and run in road service so that flywheel keeps it going over the rough spots, its OK. But it got flunked out of single-unit locals years ago.
My Kato GP50s and GP38s are such strong pullers when they're clean and lubed that when I needed a mechanism for my GP15-1, I sought out a Kato/Atlas GP9 from the old days. It needed some major mods on the frame, but is a great puller and has closer truck spacing for a GP15 (~29'9").
HI I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN A TRADE , I HAVE A UNDECORATED ATLAS GP38 THAT WAS GIVIN TO ME . I WAS GOING TO SELL IT
Ah, yes! The little "X"! Cussed that piece many a time. I have pretty much retired all of my 38-2s and 50s simply because they've got a lot of miles and worn parts on them. They all run still; it's just the universals keep pulling apart because they are worn. I spot glued some of them together to prolong their life, since replacement parts are hard to come by. But finally got tired of the tedious removal/repair that became more and more frequent. Great engines. They are the ones that got me back into the hobby in the late 80s after a long hiatus, which was the result of frustration with poor power options at the time. Really wish Kato would rerelease them soon. I've heard rumors.
