Atlas code 55 switch "burnout" problem.

I'm having a problem with some of my code 55 switches. The inner rails after the frog are "buring out", that is they are no longer powered. For some reason it is happening randomly. Unfortunatly, they are occuring where I have my electrical blocks (so far) and they alway occur where there are insulated rails ajoining them so I can't get power from rail down the line. Anyone else have this problem with code 55. I have all of my frogs powered if that makes a difference.

 

I've had a few do that. Frustrating. I've got close to 200 Atlas turnouts installed and I've already had to replace a dozen or so.

 

If you have to replace a turnout that this happens to, please send the turnout to me so I can have our factory look into what happened. I will send a replacement turnout back to you.

 

Paul - I'm thinking about converting some of my Micro Engineering turnouts to Atlas. I read on another post that Caboose Industries makes a ground throw with electrical contacts specifically for Atlas turnouts. have you heard of this and will it help cure the "burnout" problem?

 

Tim-

I would suggest you contact Paul by mail or by message at the A board.
He may not drop by here as often as one would imagine.

 

This problem is caused by failure of the built in jumpers on the turnouts. If you look at the photo you can see a small copper strip that acts as a jumper between the rails. It is molded into the ties and makes contact with the bottom of the rails at the small holes shown by the red arrows.



There are also two similar but shorter sets of these that connect the point rails. These can lose contact with the bottom of the rail. In many cases, but certainly not all, this seems to be caused by shorts from derailments. The contact area made by this jumper appears to get hot when this happens and breaks the connection with the rail. It’s possible that corrosion, or expansion and contraction can also cause this.

Getting a replacement from Paul is certainly a prime option, but if you don't want to rip up part of your layout and wait for a replacement, it is relatively easy to repair, and in most cases can be done with the turnout in place, although a bit of ballast and roadbed needs to be excavated. You just need to feed a small jumper wire under the track and solder it to the outside of the rails where the yellow arrows show. If the jumpers to the points fail (they are located at the hinges) they can be repaired in the same manner.

Incidently, I have seen this in other scales over the years, it is not isolated to Atlas code 55.

 

Nelson- Could you mail the post and pictures to Graf?

 

I have two like this. It seems to be a common problem with these switches, but when they work they are the best thing out there as far as I'm concerned.

 

I am aware of what the problem is however these should have a spot weld at the point where the contact meets the rail and this _shouldn't_ fail, hence the reason I would like to return them to the factory.

 

Paul,

Before we install a switch what should we look for that lets us know the weld is there? Any photos to share? I've got a bunch to install and if I can QC them ahead of time I'd like to.

 

Peco Insulfrogs have similar jumpers (from closure rail to frog rail). I have had one of those upen up on one of my modules. Not sure what the cause was, but it has been fixed (for now) with an external jumper.

 

I have had this situation happen but mostly the rails before the points. I have yet to look at a new switch to determine how to detect an initial problem (initially I haven't had a problem). Now before I install the switches I automatically cut away the tie from ounderneath and solder with a jumper with a 1/4" long piece of stripped telco wire. I do this for both rails. Kinda like insurance. As best as I can tell -if you use a track eraser on your switches; don't press down too much as this could loosen or break the weld. Since doing this surgery; I haven't lost a patient yet!

Brian

 

While on the subject of the c55 switches- has anyone run into a problem with the #10? the problem i'm experiencing is at the points and throw bar. It appears as if the hole in the cast point may be a little too large and the little plastic thing that keeps the trow bar on travels too far and then gets up against the rail creating a bump which the low pro wheels cant get by- they have to go over and evreything starts dancing. I tried trimming it down a little with a sharp blade but to no avail. the #5s and #7s I have don't seem to be affected by this 'necessary' loosness at the throwbar. Thought about replacing the bar but....with what and how?
Doug HarriNgton

 

I have done some testing of my own as a result of this post, and of locos stalling on turnouts. Of the fifteen Atlas Code 55 #7 turnouts I just installed on my in progress layout, I have found eight of them have conductivity issues of one sort or another.
Four have no continuity from the frog rails to the points, and four have no continuity from the stock rails to the frog rails. The other seven seem to be okay. I now have to debate whether to pull them up and send them back since I paid so bleeding much for them, or fix them in place and deal with it. Ahhh... decisions, decisions.

 

Very interesting and timely post! ;-)

 

Interesting. I wonder if the weld break problem has any correlation to the type of roadbed being used. Cork vs. Foam?

 

A further question: DC or DCC? The higher current with DCC shorts could cause the spot welds to open up.

 

I just replaced another one this weekend, it killed an entire section of track because the welds broke between two separate switches and it was from a derailed loco that sat on the track for about 5 seconds. My recommendation is to install as many feeders as you can on each side of the turnouts when you install them, just to be save and prevent the need to remove them. I've come to the conclusion that I'm not going to glue the ballast down on my turnouts, just because it will be easier to remove them and replace them in the future.