Well, I went ahead and installed the MRC sound decoder in an E8. If it is not the exact sound, it still sounds pretty good. One was enough for the sound level I like. The good thing about the MRC (and the QSI sound) is that there are no prolonged start-up sounds that you have to wait for before the loco will move. Made it fairly easy to speed match the other E8 unit that has a Digitrax decoder. Now, a brainstorm. The MRC 1645 looks like it might fit a Kato PA1 if the position of the pickup tabs is reversed. Anyone tried this? Ben
Programing the decoder is trickier for me because my digitrax zephyr will not read the decoder. However I use JMRI software to program it and so I always no what is currently programmed. I have the 1645 in a P42; I switched the sound file to #2 and I like it much better. One thing I do like better with the mrc decoder over the digitrax decoder is the initial movement of the loco. With the digitrax decoder the P42 sits for 7 seconds before it moves. I have tried start volt and kick start changes with no luck. The MRC decoder gets the P42 moving instantly which makes it easier to match with my F40s.
I have just purchased the Digitrax decoder for my Kato E8 AB. But after the good reviews I guess I will at least try one sound decoder. Thanks to all for letting us know how it works and that the results are worth the effort! Altering the frame does not worry me at all: I have just finished installing a Digitrax DZ123 in a first-generation Life like E7 AA set.... Cheers Dirk
Trimming the "bumps" on the plastic frame is not too hard. The plastic is fairly soft and cuts easily. I was able to trim those on the middle section without removing it. Careful that no cuttings fall into the motor. Removing the plastic sections at either end is easy and makes the trimming much easier. LOL. This morning I gave my track a thorough cleaning and the E8's run slower. Must have removed too much of the track oxidation. Ben
The MRC 1636 does require major frame alterations. Something I learned the hard way when drilling out the fuel tank area is be careful not to damage the contact strip holders. The speaker is a tight fit and if you get too crazy like I did then you could damage that area. This link is a pdf that tells you what sound is installed on each decoder. http://www.modelrectifier.com/resources/trainSound/Decoder%20Chart.pdf Definately a cool aspect to add for us N scalers. I hope it gets better and better.
Dirk, For the E8A installation, the headlight LED may prevent the loco shell from fitting properly. Be sure to bend the LED downward before you install the decoder, as far as it will go without breaking it off. For mine that was not enough. I had to take out the black plastic housing in the nose of the E8A long enough to trim the tab at the rear so that the housing will fit at a higher level in the frame. Ben
