I have my facia up and a program to print car cards but want to build holders. I was thinking of having a three slot box at a small town area, one for drop off, hold, and pick up. In the yard should I simply have a box for each track and maybe a small shelf so the yard master has a place to shuffle the cards? Do you have any pictures of your solutions?
John, That is what I use to use before I converted to switchlists. If you don't want to build boxes, check out the fishing tackle area of WalMart for a "Bait Box". The bait box is to carry a small amount of tackle. The top comes off easily and it will hold a DCC throttle nicely and would also work for car cards. The cost $1.49 each. Glenn Samuel
I use switch lists, too, but I have operated with car cards. Drop off, hold and pick up is a good idea. I think your concept for small town vs yard is good, too. But, how many cars? I would say 30-40 for each set of three boxes. If my small town has 60-70 cars (over 30-40), then I would have a set of boxes for each siding or area of the town. If my yard holds more than 30-40 cars, I would have a set of boxes for each track. You can decide if you want to 30-40 or 15-20. It's your layout, etc. But do you need a complete set of three boxes? The nature of car cards (in theory) is that the cars never get separated from the cards. Therefore, I would request that a switching crew inspect all cards in a town, whether scheduled to leave or not, thus ensuring some cars have not been left behind during an earlier session. This way, the cars do eventually get routed to destination even if late. Sort of prototype-like, I expect. This characteristic of later routing of cars missed is unique to car cards. For my switch lists, I have to tell the computer that some cars were missed. In order to do this, I have to know that the cars were missed. This can be a problem right there! And it can go on for weeks until you wonder, "Where is that xxxx car?" I use some clear plastic boxes to hold throttles. They were purchased at The Container Store. I also made some boxes. Each opening in this home-made holder will hold two throttles.
John: I currently use a paperless alphanumeric system and used switchlists in the past, so I have no pics of car card solutions...but a year or so ago I visited a layout where each car card had a hole punched at the top and cards at towns were hung on nails or cup hooks. In the main yard (and staging), arriving train cards were put on the nails or hooks for their arrival track, the yard master took the pack and classified the cars (and cards) to the proper track (and hook), then the departing train engineer pulled the pack to take with him when he worked his run. Since the cards were put onto the hooks in order, the yardmaster could pull the appropriate pack from the arrival track and classify those cars by starting at the top (or bottom) of the deck, moving the car to the correct track and hanging the card on that classification track's hook. When enough cars were classified on a track to run a train out, then the yardmaster would block them by town/destination and would put the properly ordered cards on the correct hook. I don't recall if blocking was only by town or if all cars within a single town were also blocked. I also don't recall if cars and cards into and out of staging were shuffled in some manner... I do remember he had trays above staging where he'd put cars (and their cards) when rotating them off of the layout in staging. Most of the cards were made of card stock, some were thinner paper that was laminated, only a half-dozen (out of several hundred) were plastic with the car info printed on paper and glued to the plastic. Many had reinforcer rings around the holes. Most showed signs of wear, but worked fine the night I was there. I've seen pics somewhere (maybe in the Yahoo Car Card Group???) with the cards in little clear plastic pocket protectors (don't recall if there were holes to hang on hooks or if they would have been stored in boxes). FWIW: I had a few extra plastic electrical boxes left over from a project and realized they'd make good throttle holders on my layout. You could probably use them for holding cards (maybe putting some partitions in to separate Drop-Offs, Pick-Ups, and Holds). They aren't too pretty (although trimming some of the tabs and painting them to match your fascia would help), but they're functional and very inexpensive.
I have seen plexiglass used and would like to try it. Does anyone know the best way to cut plexiglass? I have used a utility knife with straight edge but was looking for something faster and easier. I have a table saw but am afraid I would ruin the plexiglass. Would it?
That's my solution: and the latest version: I've cut the plexiglas with my pad saw, very slowly! and for the yard with classification tracks I've only a board: Look at my room site for the overview. Wolfgang
I have successfully cut Plexiglas with my table saw. I used a new carbide tipped blade and the protective paper was still attached to the sheet of Plexiglas.
Car Card "boxes" A simple car car "table" was built from 1/4" luan plywood and dimensional 2 x 2's. The pockets for the car cars are similar to the plastic potting trays found during the spring. I found mine at the LHS.....the owner didn't tell me where he got them! <grin> I hope this might help someone get started in operations ( and car cards!) Regards from Ohio, Tim
I've had many pieces of plexi split or crack on me when I tried to cut it. The paper that comes on it tends to stop this from happening. If the paper isn't on the plexi then use some masking tape on both sides of the piece of plexi along your cut line. It is frustrating to get almost to the end of a cut and have the piece crack and split off at some odd angle. Scoot
Well, I did use plexi but only for the front. It actually cut easily and cleanly as I set the blade on the table saw to barely protrude through the glass and did not force to quickly. I like the results. Its clean and now I can put a pen and an uncoupling tool(small screwdriver) on the edge above instead of on the scenery. There are three sidings at this location so I think I did ok.
I have cut plexiglass on a tablesaw, too. I use a good blade, I leave the paper on if it is still on, and I don't force it. I have gotten great cuts that way, and any burrs are easily dispatched with a fine file. I sometimes clean up the edges with a little sandpaper, but carefully so that I won't slice the living you-know-what out of my hands. Adam
John said: "I set the blade on the table saw to barely protrude through the glass and did not force too quickly." John: Very nice car card holder. :thumbs_up: I'd guess proper blade height and patience were critical to your success. Was the blade you used fine-toothed like a sawblade used for clean cuts on paneling or fine woodworking? Or was it larger teeth? I wonder if saws with larger teeth would be more likely to cause breaking at undesirable angles. What was your method relative to leaving the paper on or taping both sides prior to cutting?
John: I can't tell from the picture...did you position the masonite (hardboard) face of the holder so it extends a quarter inch or so above the top board to prevent your pencil or uncoupler device from sliding off the front and down into the plexiglass pocket, or is the top board slightly slanted back toward the facia board of the shelf?
I did extend the masonite over the top edge, but just slightly. I was thinking the same thing you were. The blade on the table saw was the one that came with it, middle of the road. Not too rough but not fine either. I did not leave the film on as it had been removed years ago. When using the screws I had to be sure the holes were a bit oversize for the screws as the plexi will chip and split when you drive the screw in. Yes the masonite is slanted back at 31 degrees(locks in on the saw) from the facia. I was thinking of installing a small edge/lip at the bottom front of the plexi so one could toss the cards being worked there to use as an open shelf and put them into the slot when finished. Do you think I should?
John: Is there a way you can fabricate a tray under the car card holder that you could pull out as needed and then slide back in when you were done with it? I assume the holder is about the same depth as the fascia board...If putting the tray lower than the holder isn't workable, how about next to it? If the front of the tray is made to look like the rest of the fascia, then the tray would essentially disappear when not in use.
After many operating sessions with a friend it seemd I needed a place to be able to hold the cards while working the train and sidings. So I decided to lower the holder and add slots on top to represent the industries and the angled slot would be for easier viewing while working. I just need to add a small ledge somewhere for the uncoupler tools and maybe a drink holder. As we come to an end to the session, which is whenever, there are at times trains are left in a passing siding along the mainline. My solution is the throttle holders. My car cards and train orders fit just right. A small label under the holder will indicate the siding. This photo shows the Colton yard and industries. the following photo shows the industry holder modification. We have yet to operate with the modifications but I think it should keep cards off the scenery. PS, don't mind the temporary tape labels.
No-cost Car Card boxes Here's what works for me. I use 1, 2, 3 and 4 compartments. Photo shot is for pending article. Scott
You could try Lexan instead of Plexiglass. You can drill and saw Lexan to your hearts content. It doesn't shatter like Plexiglass. You can even sand the edges with a belt sander with relative impunity. It also doesn't "yellow" with age like some Plexi products. It is flexible and impact resistant to a certain dgree. You can commonly see it used as the colored fronts on soda machines.
