Hello fellow Hobbyest Im new here and Im trying to get back in to model trains my favorite scale is HO and has it been a while since I was in to model trains and Im behind the time's in whats new and not avaiable anymore, my question for now is what road bed do you guys or Gals use now and which is best I used to use flex track in the past and I still wish to use them again any suggestions also what are good books to read on getting back in-thank you Ronald
I use "Homabed". Now offered by California Roadbed, Inc. I like it because I can order custom cut to width and height. It is easily curved by virtue of the kerfs milled into the product. It holds spikes really well, and it is a means of getting homasote roadbed WITHOUT the mess and dust inherent to milling your own. I STRONGLY recommend you try it out. BUT... try out the alternatives of cork and foam products as well. Make up your own mind. >>>>El Linko to California Roadbed, Inc.<<<< As for books, I would just go to Kalmbach.com and check out the modeling "How To" books. There are a gazillion books on the market. That way you can spend time getting the book that most matches what you know your needs are. Good luck!!!
I also use Homabed. I like the spike holding capabilities for handlaying track. If you are planning on using flextrack (which I highly suggest after some tedious handlaying LOL) cork works just fine. Man, there must be thousands of books out there to inspire you to get back to the hobby!
I use Atlas code 83 flex track and turnouts on good old cork roadbed. Micro Engineering has some nice weathered flex track - I use their code 70 on my N layout.
Anyone ever come up with a good dependable non-toxic glue that will actually stick to plastic flex-track ties?
I use white "tacky" glue that I pick up at the local craft store. Has worked for me for over 15 years.
Roadbed I use cork roadbed amd tack it down with #20 1/2inch wire nails. Atlas code 100 flex is the track and tack it with Atlas track nails. The LK&R Ry. used Elmers carpenters glue to attach cork roadbed over the insul-foam the layout is built on. T pins were used to hold the cork until the glue dried. The track was glued with the same glue then ballasted using the bonded ballast method. T pins were used to hold the track until the glue dried and while the ballast dried as well. As mentioned there are a lot of books out there with photos and so on. Find the ones about your favourite road and go for it.
Ronald, The type of roadbed to use will depend on the type of construction. I don't know if you are building traditional "L" girder, boxed frame, spline, cookie cutter or wanting to incorporate newer methods of the use of foam. Homosote/ homabed as mentioned is still the choice for many. My club is "L" girder with a mix of pine spline some handlaid, and 3/4 ply cookie cutter. Our roadbed is 1/4" clear pine. Others have had great success using masonite spline (no roadbed needed). The foam guys use various caulk glued cork, 1/4 or 3/8" foam, carpet tape and a slew of other stuff. Yes much has changed over the years, but many still prefer the tried and true. Bob K.
The Bible for bench work is How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork, Second Edition by Linn Westcott. It is availalbe on Amazon for about 12 bucks.
I've recently got back into the hobby and I'm building a rather large layout. I've been building basic 6' sections of layout at a time using wood rems from construction sites and buying 1/2" plywood for the surface. I've been using midwest products cork roadbed nailed to the plywood, then I nail the track and balast, then pull the nails from the track. I've been using the value gallon of titebond glue from Lowe's, mixed 1 part glue 3 parts water 1 part rubbing alcohol. It dries clear and dull so after the balast is dried you can go over it again with a stronger mix for extra strength if needed.
