Can I use MU's on DC? If so, what do I need to know and do? I don't have the bucks for DCC - so don't go there in responding. Thanks for any assists!
And if they don't run at approximately the same speed... you'll need to put the faster one behind the slower one... and not reverse directions. DC operations of multiple units can be frustrating... specially when engines from the SAME manufacturer DON'T run a about the same speed. Grrrrr
On my Kato F& ABBA units I have no problem. On my IM F3 ABB units all three units run slightly different speeds when cold. After a ten minute warm up all three units run the exact same speed. Hope this helps.
If you meant on the front end only what they said correct. If you meant mid train or pusher then it gets much more complicated.
I have never try this, but you can slow down fast runners with resistors. I think is a pain in the neck to try various values of resistor, but at least there is a way.
Another option is to use diodes to slow down the fast runner. Just wire two together so that they are of opposite bias to one another (so the loco works in both forward and reverse). You can get diodes in 0.6 volt and 1.2 volt drops. The resistor option is good, but heating of the resistor will limit where you can put it since it may melt the shell. When I MU the locos, I usually put the faster one in front so that it pulls as opposed to pushes the slower one. Also, if one has TT's and the other doesn't, I'll put that one in the lead.
Never had any problem in HO or in N - I've run different manufacturers engines as MU's for years. My dad and I both always ran our MU's with the fastest engine as the lead unit; we found that if the faster engines trailed a slower engine there was trouble sometimes - I'd like to hear more opinions on this aspect...
I never had any problems running the same models together and, by observations of speed, different models that had approximately the same speeds. I did wire together four Bachmann F-7s, frame half to frame half, with very good results.
If you want to run the locos back-to-back you need to reverse the wiring in the trailing one. If it's a newer split frame design, you can usually just turn the motor over in the frame.
No, that's not correct. Just turning the engine around reverses its polarity: no need to reverse wiring.
The issue with the faster unit in front is that under certain bumpy track conditions there can be an uncoupling or derailing. Mid train DPU can be achieved with a lot of trial and error. The key is balancing the make up of the train to fit your layout. Basically you need to put the right number of cars behind each locomotive. I suggest putting the weaker unit in the middle. The main purpose of the DPU is to assist the lead unit so put lighter / fewer cars behind the DPU than it is able to handle. I use the light Atlas GP38s for my DPU because if the lead unit stalls it will as well instead of pushing the cars off the track.
Muing dc locomotives. yes it would be nice if they were speed matched! Do not put the faster engine behind the slower one, The faster one will contribute to pulling by leading not pushing, pushing compresses the lead and second engines couplers. The right way and only way is faster in front slower behind, that way the train, is stretched out. By all means try to wire the frame haves together, 16 wheel pickup is always better than 8 wheel pickup There's half a dozen ways to do this from temporary to permanent. Rob
No you don't. Hell, I have two old (HO) Athearn BB's that I run just fine just by hooking their couplers. I too prefer any faster loco to be the lead loco.
I put the faster engine in the rear. That way it will have to do more of the pulling and be slowed by it. Also prevents the lead unit from breaking away from the train. However generally I do not try to run Lifelike with Kato or Atlas. I will run different models from the same manufacturer and I will run matched sets of ABBA units.
Believe it or not, we run into the same problem on the big stuff too. Differences in gear ratios, load, changeover, all "plays it's part." I can't tell you how many times I've had "mismatched" consists. Especially with older GP units. The pre "-2" units load faster. Put a GP35 and a GP60 together, talk about a rough ride, especially on the GP60. You don't notice much when you are pulling cars, but running light... Drives me nuts:tb-mad:
