Raised RR, foundation problem, help please!!

The classification yard is done, I've decided how to build the roadbed for the layout, and was all set to start making holes for posts and I have a serious problem. I cannot bore holes in the ground due to many roots and rocks (make that huge rocks). It now looks as if I will have to come up with some sort of method where I can start at ground level and go up. I was thinking about using paving blocks or cap blocks set either in stone, gravel or sand and build piers, similar to trusses (two vertical supports, cross bracing on either side and a top and bottom piece), put them on top of the blocks and attach them to the roadbed. I would probably place one every 18-24". I would be going from a height of approximately 3' down to approximately 15" with a maximum 1% grade. My knees require that I keep the layout elevated, and I would love to build a wooden trestle, I am presently interested in trying to get this lower loop built before the winter sets in. Esthetically it may not be pleasing, but I do want it funtional. Eventually I will build a wooden trestle. This will be a single track roadbed, will have approximately 24' diameter curves, will drop at the rate of 1"/100" over the entire loop. There will be some straight areas in this loop so I can attain the necessary drop to pass under this loop. I apologize for boring you with this description, but I am seeking some method that I can use where I start the foundation at ground level, and go up from there, with a minimum of frost heave affect. I live in New York State, and there will be an issue with frost heave, and I would like to try and alleviate it. Thank you for any assistance or direction you can offer.

 

Dek-Block® piers

Dek-Block® piers are the type you should look at. You will still have to level and there's always more work involved but I'm sure you could make a system like this work it is all above ground. Home depot had a similer system off hand I don't know the name brand I would have to get by there and pick up info when I get a moment these sytems are for sheds or decking they have joist type hangers and brackets for attaching post and so on. Post can always be hidden by growing vines or just natural brush growing in your area. It would also be good for you to have something up as to see how it will survive the winter so you can than change or adapt construction methods in the future. Even while I'm doing my overhead layout my methods change as I progress and there is more work involved than I thought but the plans in my imagination were much simpler and only worked in my mind and on paper but not on site, but you will find a way to make it happen.

Here is a link to this type of product:

http://www.freedeckplans.com/howtobuild/shedfloors/shedfloor01.html

 

Thank you. This looks like the way I am going to have to go. I did use this system for the freight yard (4' X 32'), and it looks as if I will use this as it works with the topography I am dealing with. I used mason sand under the dek-blocks to get them roughtly level, is this the best thing for that or should I use some type of stone? Thank you again

 

I would keep some stone handy just incase you run into a situation where that would fit the bill maybe an area where drainage might be a problem with a wash -out and the sand wouldn't cut it. I would try to get some of it built since in N.Y. the day after Labor day it could snow!!! Does the area drain well?

 

That's the sad thing, some of the area drains well, and others are prone to puddling, another incentive to raise the layout. Thank you again.

 

Thank you.
How bad would re-leveling be? Is it accomplished easily? Any shortcuts? So many questions.

 

I also had one other question. Some people have suggested using PVC pipe. Is it possible that the pipe may survive frost heave better than say wood? Am I overreacting to frost heave?

 

If you have post set on pads every 24-36" and the roadbed is secured to those post even if one post pad has a slight washout the integraty of being level should stay intact until you pack that void. I have bought 2" schedule 80 PVC 10' length the gray pipe that has bows in it. Unless you go to 4" pipe used for sewer laterals I wouldn't use PVC.

I think your going to have to build a few sections and see how they weather the winter,I understand economics and you only want to do it once but their are so many variables that they most likily will only be answered with time. The ground you are working with is very stable with root system and rock if one of those trees shift in a strong North Easter a root could shift a pad?. After a frozen winter when ground is like concrete spring comes and you get the thaw soggy areas you have alot of variables and I think only time will answer those questions.Outside RR's will always require maintanence. I do think those Dek-blocks some PT stringers,stainless steel lag bolts and 4x4 post will hold up well. If I were building one right in my back yard I would use the same methods you are using only since I have sandy soil I would sink my posts. I think your on the right track.

 

Sorry to ask so many questions. Do you think that Schedule 80 2" pipe could support 100 #'s directly down, at a height of 36"? I'm starting at a height of 36" and will go down to about 15". I probably could double them up and run the roadbed in the middle of them. I will probably do 24" centers (or, if necessary even 18" centers). I'm only planning on running a couple of double headed engines (USA F units, A/B combo). I could even put them slightly into the ground, but nowhere near the frost line, if I'm lucky, I might make 6".
This assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

2" schedule 80 will support 100Lbs setting on top and like you say you can always double up on supports,the pipe is thick wall so it has strength but if it has weight on it and is exposed to direct hot sun it can bow. Now you could use 1" galvinized pipe which comes in different pre-cut lengths threaded on the end in which the end cap scews on then 4 screws to the bottom of your roadbed plank that you wouldn't have to worry about I have bird houses and feeders attached to Galvinized pipe last forever....You just have to look at cost with these materials and also the lasting qualities I hope these suggestions help you more than confuse but just a few more options.