Tips & Tricks!

BNSF Dash 9 Dec 16, 2008

  1. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Kez,

    the open cell foam in the Train Boxes Plus product is like all the others, it does not securely hold the cars so they do move around and can bump into each other (like the couplers don't already). But think about it, nothing will or can. There are not only chassis thickness variations but all sort of stuff hanging off the sides, especially MTL locos. For the heights and profiles, these are all over the place with box, tank, flats, etc. The well stack containers are the tallest and fit well in the N scale 2 channel foam (you can order anything in the trays from Ron, just ask.

    Parts snag sometimes on the foam, like coulper trip pins and etched metal sidings like MTL's GPs that are not attached at the bottom. But this is pretty rare, you learn about it and for me, the tradeoff for a far more convenient access to staging at setup and picking after a show, this is the best an cheapest I've found. The Storage Boxes by Axian are only a single tray for $22 and N scale is the smallest. For not much more, you three Z scale trays (each holds about what the Axian trays would if they had Z) or you can by the 2x deeper HO/O scale box but with 7 Z scale trays instead. I had to upgrade to the deeper box this year :) Plus, the Train Boxes Plus cardboard is waxed so it is water resistant, great for walking in the rain to/from the car or that weenie that spills something on it. Not enough for an all day coaster though ;)
    .
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2009
  2. Fred Ladd

    Fred Ladd TrainBoard Member

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    I have been trying to inventory my collection and have been taking pictures and putting in boxes for the past 2 years. I agree that it would be better for the manufacturer to do it right from the factory--other scales do it- My LBG has pictures on the boxes!-- And MTL writes a small car specific history for the insert already- only problem is they are written in Z scale!
    I've suggested this to MTL before but to no avail.

    Those centerbeam cars are really GAWK AND AWE!
    Fred
     
  3. Alaska Railroader

    Alaska Railroader TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jeff, I went to that site and thought it was a marvelous idea, a bit pricey so I may want to try to make one. But for the wandering cars in your box, maybe putting a small pink foam spacer (cut down to fit) between each car/loco would solve the problem. In fact, I may go ahead and get the box and do that. The details and couplers won't snag on the pink foam blocks and would help to keep them from rolling back and forth. Then you could take it on that coaster :)

    Karin
     
  4. Kez

    Kez TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the info Jeff. The type of foam doesn't concern me nearly as much as the size of the slots cut IN the foam.

    For example, if I want to transport Husky/container cars with double containers in one tray, then what variation of the foam do I want?

    And if I want to transport Penzee/Full Throttle coal cars, then which foam insert do I want?

    And what about High cubes?

    I appreciate your input, as I'm seriously considering going with this system for show transportation. I love the easy in and out at shows. I've already spent too much of my life replacing MTL cars in their boxes............

    :weep2: :embarrassed2:

    Also, are the slots in the foam square cut, which might facilitate size customization with a filler foam of my choice?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 6, 2009
  5. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    You can pretty much use the standard Z foam (3 channels = thirty 50' box cars or 6 Marklin passenger cars [IIRC]). Normal box cars will be a little loose, 30's era with top brake wheel will snag enough to stay relatively put. Hi-cubes, etc. will be just pushing in. Any stack containers eithe use the N scale (2 channels) or, use the Z 3 channel and put "inverted" in the top row and cut the middle rows 'top' and 'bottom' foam wall for the containers. Bottom row place in like normal. Flat cars: empties, place top-to-top (trucks out) with some foam in between. With loads, single car with foam wedge. You can cut foam deviders and insert between these cars to help make a cozy home for them too. Locos, they're heavy and have lots more to 'snag' on so they pretty much stay reasonably well.

    Definitely worth the tradeoffs.
    .
     
  6. Kez

    Kez TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you so much Jeff. I think I'm going to have to order myself at least one of these, if not two. I hope the discount he's showing is still good!

    Thanks again! I can't wait for the next shows in March!
     
  7. Kez

    Kez TrainBoard Member

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    Okay, one more question! In the larger image that is shown on the Train Boxes website, is it safe to assume that all of the equipment shown is N scale? So that the three channel foam would actually hold Z scale cars on their sides, not on their wheels?

    Thanks for the help.

    You Baz Boys rock, by the way.
     
  8. Joe D'Amato

    Joe D'Amato TrainBoard Member

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    I'm going to suggest we do a line drawing to scale on the back side of the insert so you can see what car goes in what box. Good idea!

    Joe
    MTL

     
  9. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Joe, you should have room somewhere on the label once you ditch the Märklin coupler info :)

    Bryan, yes those are N scale. Z goes on their sides. I'll get a pix up later.
    .
     
  10. Kez

    Kez TrainBoard Member

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    Jeff; No problem. I've already placed my order for two! :)

    Joe; LINE DRAWINGS?!? We want FULL COLOR WITH TEXTURE for DETAILS! AND WE WANT IT NOW!!! :eek:mg: /whiny modeller mode off/ :shade: Will the line drawings be able to include road name and number?

    Thanks for considering it Joe. You know we appreciate all that you do.
     
  11. Don A

    Don A TrainBoard Supporter

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    Full color will run up Joe's packaging cost pretty fast. If you don't have a digital camera you can get a lot of images from the Monthly PDF files that a few of the dealers post or send out. These go back a long way. Does UMTRR have photos that go back to "Year 1"

    ...don
     
  12. Kez

    Kez TrainBoard Member

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    Jeff,

    I received my Train Boxes, and I think these are going to be GREAT! I bought two of the standard 3 tray depth, and this will give me plenty of capacity for quick show pick-up! Thanks VERY MUCH for the tip and the link!

    Don,

    I KNOW full color would run up his cost, which is why I was kidding around (hence the /whiny modeller mode off comment..........it's an old chat room thing). I think Joe knows what I think of his efforts for us Z scalers.
     
  13. Glenn Woodle

    Glenn Woodle TrainBoard Member

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    I forget if it was 10 years ago when MTL released 2 books about their product lines? Hardcover & soft cover. It was meant to update the MTL history up to that point. I don't remember if it had pictures of the whole N product line?

    Another item was the plastic binders MTL sold that were supposed to hold the monthly news release, database of coupler conversions, & other how to articles. I don't remember if this also had any Z items in it? Both could be "finds" at the rare book collectors??
     
  14. DPSTRIPE

    DPSTRIPE TrainBoard Supporter

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    Inserting and removing Marklin steam loc crank pins

    One of the most annoying tasks during a steam loc kitbash is removing and reinserting the crank pins on the locomotives drivers. The removal really isn't too bad. I usually use a small pair of precision flush cutters to grip the sides of the pin head and carefully twist the head back and forth (just a little) until the pin begins to lift. Then, I grip the pin in the cutters as low as I can get them and pry up on it, using as little pressure as possible. To avoid pin loss, I like to use a magnetic parts tray, but I am usually too lazy to go and find it. So, I spend a lot of time looking for pins.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37033

    The most annoying part of the task is putting the pins back in. It always seems like the fingers you have are too few and way too big. After years of messing with tweezers and pliers, I finally came up with a practical solution. I found a tiny rare earth disk magnet (about 1/8" in diameter) and glued it to the end of a 2" length of 1/8" styrene tubing. Then I glued a thin slice of the tubing to the exposed face of the magnet. The head of the pin fits in nicely and is held in place firmly. I glued the head of a tiny nail into the other end of the tubing to use to set the crank pin. To insert the crank pin, I place it on the magnetic end, use the pin to align the push rod holes over the hole in the wheel, then I push the pin in. I flip the tube over and use the nail head to finish the insertion. Pictures of the tool are below.
    Dan S.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. HoboTim

    HoboTim TrainBoard Supporter

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    Nice Idea!

    This is truly a great Idea you have!!! The pins are indeed more difficult to put back in place than they are to take out.

    Kudos!!!

    Hobo Tim
     
  16. BNSF Dash 9

    BNSF Dash 9 TrainBoard Member

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    Great ideas! :thumbs_up:
     
  17. John Bartolotto

    John Bartolotto TrainBoard Supporter

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  18. lvdonna

    lvdonna TrainBoard Member

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    Dan, Truly amazing!! Try to get a copyright on this. Next time your over for dinner, I'll try to use this on the garlic!

    Best, Donna :tb-biggrin:
     

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