I got an airbrush for Christmas. And a compressor. And I bought a low-pressure regulator. Now, can anyone tell me how to use it? The instructions with it are so vague they are useless. I tried googling it, and was overwhelmed by the results, most of which aren't about our kind of airbrushing. I searched this site, not much under "airbrush tutorial" Is anybody any good at it and want to share their knowledge? I'm sure given enough time and playing around I'd figure out which tip and what pressure work best with which paint, and how thin to make the paint, but I'd rather take the shortcut and pick someone's brain. We do it all the time at work - there just isn't enough time to learn by trial and error and make every mistake personally....:tb-wink:
My ha'pence worth is to start with about 20 psi and paint the consistency of milk, but you will need to follow the brush instructions to get the basic air ratio setting correct (assuming there is some adjustment). With airbrushing there really is no substitute for trying it yourself and practice. You can get the basic instructions from almost anywhere (mix/thin thoroughly, start the spray away from the surface to be painted, keep it moving, etc.) but each brush, paint, model, person and required finish will vary. And then there are single or double action brushes ....
Practice is the key word. There is no simple solution. It would be most helpful if you would tell us what brand and model number for the brush and the compressor and if you will be using spirit based or acrylic paints. Then, you will get more than enough advice.
The brush is a Paasche H1007 single action. The compressor is from Sears, a regular compressor with a tank, able to run my impact wrench, air ratchet, or inflate a tire. So air volume will be no problem; that's why I bought a regulator from Grainger that is adjustable from 5-150 psi. Paint - haven't got that far yet. Probably acrylic. Michaels has a huge assortment of colors fairly cheap so I can mix my own, for painting buildings, where it's not critical what shade it is. I may have to switch to some expensive hobby paint if I ever paint a locomotive, and it may be oil-based.
What Mike Sheridan said about starting with 20 psi and paint the consistency of milk is a good idea. The instructions that came with my Badger 155 Anthem mostly focused on parts diagrams, disassembly and reassembly, so I know what you mean. One thing I found that was helpful... after having lots of splatters and such I went and bought some actual airbrush paint and tried that so that I could eliminate the bad paint mix variable and just work on technique. After I get the technique down a little more I will move on to mixing and thinning my own paints again.
I can only re-iterate the recommendations to practice. Start on a sheet of cardboard and observe how the different paint / air ratios, distance from the cardboard, air pressure, and thinning ratios work. Also observe how to start and stop spraying. This is what my airbrush instructions recommended, and it actually included some practice exercises. With regards to paint, you can use craft store acrylic, but the more expensive craft paint will flow better. There is acrylic airbrush paint available from art stores - a bit more expensive but less than MRR paint on a per-ounce basis. Color selection is not the best for what we do, however. Regarding thinning - measure and write it down! I spent a lot of time trying to achieve the right dilution and did not record it. I finally hit on the idea of using soda straws marked in half-inch increments for thinner - distilled water or windshield washer fluid, in my case. But you could get better results with "acrylic airbrush medium" from the art store. For measuring I now use inexpensive pipettes from a mail-order art supply house, again with marks to show how much. It's easy to thin too much - then you get watery blobs instead of a coat of paint. Once you learn how to get good results with craft paint, you will find the real model paints much easier to use. George V.
I think some people say that acrylics are harder to work with (I've never used them myself) and that they are harder to clean out of the brush. I'm sure someone else can confirm or otherwise. If so, you might want to start with oil/solvent based and then 'advance' to acrylics.
Do you also have a filter to trap anything that may end up clogging the airbrush? It will also take excess moisture out. I am a rooky when it comes to using my airbrush and I found the water based colors easier because of clean up mainly. My instructions also came with practice guides to give you some experience and make you familiar with the characteristics of the brush. They may look like preschool projects but they do help.
i have a badger Crescendo 175 i use laquer thinner for clean up regardless of the type of paint i shot nothing stands a chance aganst laquer. acrylic paint and me are like oil and water,we just dont mix. i prefer floquil rr colors or model master paints.
You weren't to specific about the compressor. If it is an oiless type you will be fine. If the compressor has oil in the crank you will want a filter set. One removes the water and one removes the oil. Also if it's 2HP or more always drain the tank. These get a little warmer than small ones and they do get water in the tank.
Here are several sites that have info on airbrushing. The first four are railroad releated the others are model related, airplanes and tanks, but the techniques are similar. Lots of good info. The first site look like it might be the best for you to start with. Good Luck, have fun and practice. (scroll down about a 2 pages on the CB&Q link to the airbrushing section) PeteC Model RR Airbrushing HR Trains - Practical aplications for an airbrush in model railroading Modeling and Painting a CB&Q GP30 974 step by step Need opinions my first time airbrushing. - ModelRailroadForums.com http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/airbrush-tutorial.html Model Master Technical Guide - 06 Airbrushing
We have a start on some answers. 1. The craft paints will not thin well if you are doing acrylics. I would strongly suggest airbrush paints, budget permitting, OR Liquitex paints cut with Liquitex Airbrush Medium. A little paint will go a long way when cut this way. Liquitex comes in matt finish, as well, which will obviate the need for Dullcote on most projects. One thing that was not mentioned- whether you are using spirit based or acrylics, you had better have a spray booth that will filter and vent what you are spraying. The spirit based paint is obviously harmful to your lungs. Guss what? The acrylics are also highly dangerous when breathed in since they are very small particles of paint and will coat your lungs just as easily. Outdoor spraying is fine if your climate permits. Inddors, you will need the booth. We have at least one member here at Trainboard who has serious health issues from working with paints, glues and whatnots for many years.
Yes, I see that. Thanks, everyone. It's about 70F here today, so spraying out in the garage is no problem. I have an old box fan I can set up to get the air moving on out the door.
Have fun with your new airbrush....Practice.... Practice... Practice. I lived in Florida for 15 years and my spray booth was in my pool lanai area.
