I would like to embed some track into a street like you see in industrial areas so you only see the rail. My question is how is this done? I am using Atlas code 55 flex. I thought of using styrene but am unsure what size to use .020, .030 etc or if this is even the best method. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
I use wallboard joint compound. I apply it with a putty knife covering the ties up to the level of the top of the rail. After it dries I fill in any cracks that open up and let dry again. I sand it down smooth again to a level slightly below rail top so I can clean the track without scuffing the roadway. I then cut away the joint compound for the flangeways on the inside of each rail by scraping with the back of an Xacto blade. Once cars and engines can move freely along the rails I paint the street with Floquil Concrete paint.
I use compound also but I take a cheap wheelset and roll it through the compound while it's still wet so I only need to do some touch-up carving once the flangeways are dry.
You do this with n-scale code 55 rail? it would seem to me to be very hard to do that with such small rail. That being said wouldn't using styrene be better since you would avoid having to sand or make such a mess that you had to clean rail? I don't know I am just asking.
I guess because I use wall board compound for all my streets, roads and crossings, it is just a seamless continuation of it. It is easier for me to contour and work around curved track. However with patience, one could do the same with styrene.
I guess because I use wall board compound for all my streets, roads and crossings, it is just a seamless continuation of it. It is easier for me to contour and work around curved track. However with patience, one could do the same with styrene. I looked at the pictures of your layout. I must say that's quite a fantastic layout and looks very realistic! Your streets look quite realistic! The one thing I am wondering though is your basically only using that method for crossings. What I want to do is have the track in the middle of the street so that I would be looking at about 8 foot long section of track that would be "embedded" in the street not just a crossing area and actually it would end up being dual tracks next to each other that would be running past a warehouse area. Would you still recommend the joint compound method for this? [ June 29, 2005, 06:33 PM: Message edited by: Pete Nolan ]
I edited n-beginner's syntax to reflect what he wanted to portray. I, too, use joint compound for crossings. For longer stretches, it's not too difficult to use styrene. I put a piece of paper on the track, and use the old grave-stone rubbing technique to define the rails. Then I cut styrene to follow the rubbings.
This view shows some street tackage on my modules. It is just a contiuation of the parking lot between some buildings.
I've used joint compunds for small crossing with good results. But for a large Intermodal yard, say 5', I will use styrene to maintain a level surface for the yard.
I am not conveying what I mean too well and for that I do apologize. What I want is this: say you have an asphalt street running between buildings like in the picture above BUT all you see of the track is the rails right in the street. no ballast, no ties. pretty much like trolly track. My track is already laid right on the foam so if I were to use styrene it would go over the ties in the middle of the rail and over the ties on the sides, the track wouldn't sit on the styrene. also if I was to use styrene what size sheet would i use? .020 for between the rail? or .030 or .040? The reason I thought styrene would be good is it could be cut to size first, tested and then painted and weathered prior to installing it so no mess on the rails to worry about but again since I am new perhaps this isn't the best way to get the look that I am wanting. [ June 29, 2005, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: n-beginner ]
That is pretty much all that is visible of the track under the locomotive and the box cars in the center of the photo above, just the top of the rails. Understood. Like I hinted at above, whatever I used I would want the surounding pavement to be lower than the top of the rails so that it is easy to clean the track without scuffing the paint. For the Atlas track, I don't know what thickness that would be. It would have to rest on top of the ties in between the rails and probably on top of the spike heads outside the rails so that it woud rest up against the side of the rail. That is why I prefer joint compound, I can sand it down to whatever level I want.
ok I am going to try the joint compound and see how that goes since I must say your work is just fantastic. Now to be sure I understand correctly: Joint compound is the stuff used on drywall after it is taped correct?
Correct! If you have a long straight track to be embedded in the road I would use a two layer styrene (or cardboard) approach: First layer is same thinkness as the ties, it is used to elevate the street plus any surrounding housing areas. It does not need to be 100% perfect fit to the ties, as it will be covered by the second layer. Second layer is slightly thinner than the rail is high. It is supported by the first layer, so it clears the ties and butts up against the rails, eliminating any sight ties outside the rails. Use the same thickness as narrow strip to go between the rails A cross-section picture is probably better than a 100 words.... I find this method neater and better for staright track. Getting the second layer right for curves can be tedious, but with some try and error I had good results. Trust this helps Dirk
The spike heads, especially on the Atlas track have to be considered also. If the styrene is cut to fit between the spike heads in the center, the result will leave the needed flangeways. However, on the outside of the rail if you butt the styrene up against the rail it will have to be on top of the spike heads. So the first layer of styrene outside would have to be thicker than the ties to compensate and the second layer thinner.
I have decided to go with lightweight joint compound. I must admit the additional work and sanding will be a pain but I think from everything I have read, the comments here and the pictures of both joint compound and styrene streets that I have seen show the joint compound method produces a more realistic effect. Roads/streets are never completely straight and smooth and with a plastic it would be much harder to include the normal rregularities that real road surfaces have. This is the conclusion I came to from the research I did and all your kind replies and information.
Yes, it takes a lot of steps of having to keep going back and filling cracks from shrinking in the drying process and sanding down again. A good shop vac is essential and the white powder sure plugs up the filter. Just one way to model roads that gives good results. But the end result is a seamless pavement that flows together nicely. After painting with Floquil a simple shading with lead pencil, smudged a bit with a finger makes nice oil stains down the middle of a lane. Pencil lines make good cracks too.
I have always wanted some street trackage, but never managed to fit any into my layouts Should have tried harder, I guess
Russel, you are right, the spike heads will need to be considered as well. Thanks for the clarification! Cheers Dirk
