I'm fitting out my rolling stock with MT1015 couplers and I have started setting them up on a small test track which also tests the operation with my electro-magnets. I am finding that I can't get reliable uncoupling with the 1015s. The knuckles appear to be catching as they try to pass each other when uncoupling. This means that if there is only one or two cars to be dropped off then they can be pulled off the magnet and remain coupled. With a heavier train to be dropped off, there is sufficient resistance to allow the knuckles to be pulled past each other. I have also got two Atlas cabooses supplied fitted with MT couplers which look like 1021/22 types, and they work well. Also, the coupler on the MT coupler gauge works well - that looks like one of their 1023/5 types. I've tried 'helpng' the couplers to open further by gently pushing the trip wires further but that doesn't seem to help. I get the feeling that if I file or scrape a few thou off the knuckle that the couplers will work well, but before I start going down that road, I thought I might see if I've missed something. :tb-biggrin: Jim. [Edit] maybe should have added that the couplers are assembled from the 10 pair pack.
Did you follow the instructions especially about burnishing the two coupler pieces and using greas'em? If not try it. If you did then check the trip pin height above the rail or try stronger magnets.
Removing the coupler parts from the sprues will leave some sharp edges that must be removed. I clean up with a sharp knife and a fine file. Then follow the instructions and burnish the parts with graphite powder. Use the end of a drill bit if you can't find a ball-pointed burnishing tool. Also when you assemble the trip pin to the coupler, be sure you don't force it to an odd angle. That could cause both pins to be pushed to the same side by the magnet.
It's reassuring to know that I'm not the only one who has suffered the problem. :tb-biggrin: Cost precludes getting the ready assembled ones at the moment. Jim.
I did the burnishing bit, but only on the mating surfaces within the coupler box, and Greas'em was applied as well. I've also set the trip wire height with the MT gauge. I did wonder about the strength of the electro-magnets I am using (not MT ones, but coils and a pole piece from a Carpenter relay) but seeing that I could get the other MT couplers working satisfactorily with the magnets, I'd like to get the 1015s working with them as well. I'll re-visit the assembly of the couplers. Thanks for your response. Jim.
Mike, I've got another pack of un-assembled 1015s and I will re-visit the assembly of the couplers. I thought I was doing sufficient burnishing and lubricating, but maybe not enough. As an aside, any hints on getting the right amount of Grease'em stuff out of the tube? I either get nothing, or a cloud of graphite flakes when squeezing the tube. Maybe I haven't quite got the touch yet, or is there a knack? :tb-biggrin: Many thanks for your response. Jim.
I have the same problem, it seems quite unpredictable. I now put a newspaper underneath to at least contain the mess a bit. That allows to shake off the surplus from coupler pockets right away as well.
The trick is: With the cap on, turn the pointed end down, tap the tube to get the graphite down to the point, turn it horizontal, remove cap, gently tap until a small amount of graphite powder comes out.
Mike, I'm going to try something else. I've managed to decant about 1/8" of graphite into a clear capsule that MT use to hold the springs in the 10 x 1015 coupler packs. I'll use a small paint brush to apply the graphite to where it should go. I think I'll have to mark that brush quite distinctly so that it doesn't get used for painting.:tb-biggrin: As an aside, I just got a couple of Athearn boxcars fitted with the McHenry couplers and they seem to work well over my electro-magnet. However, they also seem to uncouple very easily when pulled across the magnet when it is powered, so might not be too clever with permanent magnets. Jim.
That should work, too. I usually tap out a small amount of the graphite onto a paper towel or piece of paper that I use as a working surface. Then I work the parts through the graphite and burnish it into the plastic. I just sent you a private mail, too.
