OK well while i was on the idea of detailing my GP15 i found the remains of a P2K GP20, and a bunch of lifelike GP9's and parts. Then i stared thinking. "A GP10 is a GP9 with a GP20 cab and a few modifacations right?" so for my first kitbashing project ever i wanted to take the P2K GP20 drivetrain, cab, and detail parts. the life-like's GP9 shell and hood. and a few aftermarket parts to make a GP10. So far for the aftermarket parts i've found are the following. 1. Horst air filter by details associates http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14368 2. a roof rotary beacon http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14962 3. I'm having trouble with winterization hatches. Whihc of these two would a GP10 have? http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14289 http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14826 4.Side step sets since the life like ones are way below par http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=13430 5. a GP7 pilot http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=31880 I know i'm probably gunna need snowplows and hand rails and stuff but what else would i need and is there any advice for this?
The GP20 nose would be incorrect as it is the EMD sloped version. The BN rebuilds lowered the nose with little or no slope to it, much like the IC/ICG Paducah rebuilds. The winter hatch would need to be the version for 36" fans not 48" and it appears that there were two types used - rounded corner and squared cornered - and I think the handrails stay fairly well stock. This is from memory of doing N scale versions. It should be noted the BN GP10's were GP7's originally (different hood louvre arrangement), otherwise you are fairly well on the right track.
i knew about the GP20 nose. I wa gunna cut the GP9 hoods in half. Besides louvers and prime mover there isn't much of a differnce between a GP9 and a GP7 so i'm pretty good there. Which one of those is a winterization hatch for a 36" fan? the GP7 or the GP9?
If it is for a GP9/18 then I would expect it's for a 48" fan as the GP18's had them. Late model GP9's had 48" fans too. I would go for the GP7 hatch.
heres a better idea i found. the walthers trainline GP9's are PERFECT for GP10's!!! They have a flat nose, a rounded cab. and i can remove the dynamics section and replace it with a non-dynamics section!.
Geep Fan, The Walthers GP9m is a fine starting point for a BN GP10. But, there is one thing that you should be aware of, this model has a body that is a scale 1ft too WIDE. If this discrepancy doesn't bother you, it does some, go for it. If you are bothered by this, I would suggest using another manufacturers GP7/9. Whichever way you do go, definitely post photos!!
I was thinking of trying to make a passable GP10 from a trainman GP9. But can anyone tell me how to remove the dynamics and modify the cab front window? Or point me towards an on-line article on it perhaps?
Sorry - I meant walthers "trainline". I know it is not the best starting point but it is my starting point! And to save any other confusion I actually want to build an ICG version.
Here's a picture of a GP10 for reference: Notice the angled cab roof- you can use either an Athearn EMD cab or a Cannon cab for this feature. Also, you'll need an anticlimber & snowplow in the front. The fuel tanks are definitely different from the GP9 that this locomotive used to be- it looks more like a tank from a GP20 or GP35. On the long hood, on this unit notice the four non-turbo exhausts and the air filter. While not exactly the "ox-yoke" filter ICG used on its Paducah Geep program, IIRC there is a detail part out there for this feature. BTW, this particular diesel works at the Lattimore quarry in Stringtown, OK shoving hoppers for crushed rock loading. So, judging by all this, you may need a GP20 chassis, a GP9 shell for the long hood, an angled EMD cab, and the other detail parts from the various manifacturers. Methinks you would have a nice-looking locomotive when finished.
Not even close to the BN GP10s. The BN GP10s have the round cab roofs. And being GP10s aren't a loco from the EMD catalog, they vary between railroads. The fuel tank on this one is the same as a GP9, notice the air tanks run perpendicular to the frame, not parallel.
For BN's GP10s you will need a GP20 chassis (for the fuel tank/air tank arrangement) and a GP7 shell. If you have or can find a copy of the Burlington Northern 1974-75 Annual, in it there is a chapter on these units showing construction photos plus a set of drawings.
BN GP10's Go to Trainpix.com and go to the BN archive. Then go to the GP10 listing in the roster. There are lots of photos there. Might try Fallenflags.org too.
A quick scour through the BN Archive noted differences in the winter hatches and filters. Whilst most had ox-yoke type (I think Farr) filters some had the smaller filter boxes, like some CR Geeps had, and one didn't have one at all, though this may have been removed (late image date). The winter hatches are either square- or round-cornered and may have carried over from their original fitment as a GP7. All had liberated exhausts (4) and a GP35 style tank with the air reservoir set to the rear, possibly 2300 gallon? The GP 20 tank has a centralised air reservoir.
The local short line here had 2 ex BNGP10's, the 1410 and the 1416, Both had variations in their details, one had the beacon right above the headlights, the other was at the rear of the cab and the earlier style(higher profile), different horns and locations. I have the beacon and one of the glass numberboards from the 1410 as they were removed when repainted and renumbered. There are pics of a metaltrain GP10 from ModelPower in their newest catalog at the LHS, hopefully this model will see the light of day and be produced this year. Mike
I have been wanting to do this project for quite some time now. But mine will be in N scale. One thing that I do know is the GP-7 sill will have to be used as the handrails are different from that of a GP-9. Yes there are differences between each individual loco. I have seen pics of some with 2 stacks and some with 4 stacks, beacons in different places and different style of winterization hatches. And I am sure I could find mor edifferences too if I really got to looking at photos more in depth.
