I can't help you the Life-Like switcher. You can purchase new leading and trailing truck from Kato to fix the Mikado. Rich
I don't see where they offer slim-flange options though? They only ones I see are factory replacements which still appear to be very large.
I am also chasing some information on wheels and rail heights, but to do with Code 40 ME rail..... I plan on building my railroad with code 40 ME rail soldered to PC board ties, and not using spikes at all, does this mean that my flanges will be fine? I run all new Kato and Atlas gear, along with some MTL freight cars, and would like to know just how many wheels i might be looking at replacing? I don't mind replacing freight car wheels, but replacing driver on the steamers would be somthing I would like to avoid! I am also chasing some Fasttracks turnout jigs, and the code 40 is different to the code 55, so i would like to get an idea of the issues now, rather than after purchasing the jigs! Cheers, Matt
Nlevo, If you look at the Kato site under spare parts for the Mike. You need: See the (rev) at the end? That means they are the newer wheels with smaller flanges. They don't sell the old ones any more.
Hi guys, Just though I'd share my experiences of Code 55 track with you I have laid my (visible) main line entirely of Micro Engineering Code 55 wood ties with Atlas Code 55 #10 and #7 turnouts Reasons for this: ME Code 55 track looks closer to scale than Peco Code 80 and has a "subtle randomness" in the ties > all Peco's are entirely uniform. I have upgraded all my rolling stock with low profile metal wheelsets - primarily Atlas / IMRC / some FVM - as a result I have bags of pizza cutters The turnouts work well with a little filing of the blades but I have discovered that even low profile metal wheelsets "rumble" through the turnouts with the flanges just bottoming out on the tie plates / spikes. This is really only minor & can be fixed with a couple of careful swipes of the needle file. All my locos even some of my older Kato's run through these turnouts without a murmur. I have absolutely no problem with all my ME Code 55 track and once I've airbrushed / ballasted and weathered it, it looks as good as some HO track. You do have to coax it into the curves but it holds it's line after you do The new Atlas turnouts are DCC friendly and make backfeeding the frog a snap by soldering to the lug on the side of the tie. I have seen the Atlas Code 55 track in my LHS and it looks pretty good & seems to flex nicely - I can't comment any further on it though as I am still using loads of ME Code 55 I bought a year or two back from Fifer's. The combination of Code 55 ME Flex track & Code 55 Atlas turnouts has worked really well for me but may not be for everyone. I just thought if any modellers were considering this option for track, I can confirm that it'll all work and look OK. To me it's a very happy medium between aesthetics and reliablity PS I use Peco Code 80 in my hidden staging and have a soldered transition track from my 55 to 80 - will post some pics on my albums page if anyone is curious Happy modelling Steve
I looked at both the ME and Atlas code 55 track and found that the the ME was way more expensive and did not look that much better and some of my older locos had flanges that hit on it the same as the Atlas, so there was no reason in my thinking to spend the added money for ME track, plus ME is hard to get in the quantity that I needed. I also checked their turnouts and and found them to be more expensive than Atlas and required more effort installing in the way of required gaps due to the live frog that they have. The Atlas frogs can be made live but are isolated from the rest of the track and no special gaps are required making the installation easier when actuated with a Tortoise turnout control. Either the ME or the Atlas code - 55 track are great products an work very well. Just my thoughts on the comparison of the two manufactures products.
Atlas Code 55 is such a disappointment. I never had any trouble with my code 80 track. i even collected code 55 for about two years before i even built my layout. spent months putting in the track to only find out that most of my equipment ran terrribly on it. in the future i will just use code 80 track. Code 80 track can look very realistic if you take the time to paint the rails and maybe some of the ties. i even built a new yard on my layout and soldered code 55 track to code 80 track.
This not what I wanted to hear! I spent a lot of money on c55 and have not laid a single piece because of layout problems and I still waiting on the new curved switches. I may now put it all up on eBay. :thumbs_down:
Mat, My entire layout is Atlas c55 rail/turnouts, but I will be using some ME code 40 on some sidings. I did some experiments and it works fine with lowpro wheels (fvm and atlas) and my engines (most after 1990) if I drag a file along the molded spikes on the code 40. It is nice track but it does not flex like atlas. You have to go slow and start from the center of the curve to get it to work. Pretty much been my experience that it doesn't matter what track you use if you, if you install it badly it won't perform. Seems to me with a little care ANY quality track will work well. .... Well, maybe not Bachmann. (smile)
Well so far I love the C55 track. Like SeanM said though, you just have to make sure you do a good job of laying it. Also that your equipment is right for it, which is my current hold up. I wouldn't think of changing track though, the looks/value aspect is just to great for me.
My last 2 layouts were built with Atlas code 55 and the new double deck that I am building right now is Atlas code 55, #7 and #10 switches and I don't anticipate any problems either. I use nothing but the flex track and if anybody is having any problems with the snap track; call Atlas and have them replace it as I know that they did have some issues early on with that item. Careful laying of the track (all kinds) will minimize any problems. I love the switches but my golden rule is to NEVER use a brightboy on them as you will break loose the under track contacts over time. I use alcohol on a rag and wipe them off. While it is true that standard MTL wheelsets or very old locos with deep flanges are not compatible, I change everything over to FV wheels and have retired the old stuff. There is nothing wrong with Peco or ME except for the price and general availability. Atlas code 55 has been a great option in my opinion. Brian
