Introduction and some questions.

Hello everyone, I just wanted to introduce myself. I am a 26 year old civil engineer who has just rediscovered the joys of model railroading. I used to like doing this as a kid, but kind of lost the desire once I went away to school. Now I am back with time and money, at least compared to my school years.

I have chosen N scale as my scale of choice. I haven't yet designed a layout to really apply myself to just yet, but thought I would start out with one of the beginner layouts that are seen in some of books that are around. This way I can get some trains up and running, while I plan for my next project. I should let you know that I am intrigued by the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad.

As I said I do have a couple of questions for the more experienced. First, I am really into the "realistic" look, and was considering just starting out with Code 55 track (from Micro Engineering and later from Atlas). Is the cost worth the additional realism or should I just buy the cheapo Code 100 track?

Next, what type of roadbed does everybody like to use? I know about cork roadbed, of course, but I have also been looking at AMI Instant Roadbed and a product from Woodland Scenics. Does anybody have some experience with these?

Finally, I live in a very small town that is a good hour-and-a-half drive from any type of respectable hobby store. This limits me to very infrequent trips. Let me know of the best places to shop online.

Sorry, this turned out to be such a lengthy post. I am glad to be a part of this forum.

Thanks,

Steven Schiebel

 

Welcome to the hobby. If you are starting out and not planning a huge layout, I would definitely use code 55 track. This way, as your skills improve, your track won't look out of place. I have not tried the AMI "instant roadbed" but I personally do not like the concept of something you have to stick down right the first time and cannot change. I intend to try the new Woodland Scenics track bed when and if I start my new layout. For prices and service on the 'net, you can't do better than Brooklyn Locomotive Works at http://www.buynscale.com or Rio Grande Hobbies at http://www.4nscale.com. Rio Grande is the best source of ME track.

 

Hi Steven:

Here's some answers for you. If you go with the Code 55 track you can be limiting yourself. While there's no question that it looks better than the Code 80 track (Code 100 is HO, the standard N track is Code 80) you will have to resign yourself to running only the more recently realeased ATLAS, KATO and LIFE-LIKE diesels. The older models and virtually all of the European models and even some of the Japanese models (which may be of interest to you at some point for kitbashing purposes) still have large wheel flanges which are not 100% compatible with Code 55 track.

I don't know if you are a steam fan at all but most of the brass steamers that I own also have the large flanges and again, do not work too well with Code 55 track.

If you go with the Code 80 track and ballast it well, the look can be almost as good as Code 55 but you are not limiting yourself to what you can run on it. Definitely give this some serious consideration before you choose.

As far as mail order suppliers, I have to give a shameless plug for our own online store

www.nscaledivision.com

We actually don't stock too much in way of track other than KATO Unitrack but we can definitely help you out with specialty rolling stock and Digital Command Control (DCC).

 

Hi Steven, welcome to the TrainBoard! The others answered your questions, but I got one for you. After we come off the tangent and have gone through the easement, and have a true radius for about 120 degrees, how is a 20 degree radius layed out? I tried it on a computer and discovered there are more than the one way to lay it out and they get different circles.

I was told you measure 100 ft out, stake it. Swing the transit 20 degrees left, measure 100 ft out and stake it. Set up over that stake and swing 20 degrees and measure 100 ft out and so on around the curve.

A surveyor said you set 90 degrees off the first tangent out 100 ft stake, swing the 20 degrees, and where that crosses the 90 off set, is where you stake it. You get two radii. So how do we do it?

 

The older models and virtually all of the European models and even some of the Japanese models (which may be of interest to you at some point for kitbashing purposes) still have large wheel flanges which are not 100% compatible with Code 55 track.
Does this apply to just the American produced Code 55 track ?
Most of my present layout is Peco code 80 with a very small amount of Peco code 55 (which does not appear to give problems)
I am, however, considering the use of Peco code 55 track on my new layout. All my stock is of European or Japanese manufacture.
Best wishes,
John.

 

Welcome to the most prolific source of Ncale information on the net. I have Peco code 80 track, and am now relaying code 55 Peco, as Alan and John pointed out, do not limit yourself from the outset, leave you options open and you wont find yourself hamstrung in 12 months time.

 

Go with the Code 55, either Atlas or ME. It will be alot more rewarding and improve your track laying skills greatly as the track (if you want smooth trackwork) needs to be laid with care and thought, unlike Code 80 and or the Peco 55, which you can mangle and still get locos to run (although badly). The 55 will teach you precision and when you skills improve (as I see your eager to learn) you will already have an excellent layout base.

The 55 track will not interfere with the flanges, except for the really early locomotives and some of the European + Jap trains. Most of these are crude models anyway, so there's no need to think about them.

However whatever you choose, learn to take your time and practice as much as you can before laying track on the layout, and learn the most you can!

Mike

 

Thanks for the great advise everyone. As for the question posed by watash...ouch! I have to admit, you have got me. Being a civil engineer you would think I would know this, but it has been about 5 years since I have done any surveying (and that was only in straight lines!). Let me think about it, though, and I will try to get back to you.

 

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John Whitby:
The older models and virtually all of the European models and even some of the Japanese models (which may be of interest to you at some point for kitbashing purposes) still have large wheel flanges which are not 100% compatible with Code 55 track.
Does this apply to just the American produced Code 55 track ?
Most of my present layout is Peco code 80 with a very small amount of Peco code 55 (which does not appear to give problems)
I am, however, considering the use of Peco code 55 track on my new layout. All my stock is of European or Japanese manufacture.
Best wishes,
John.<hr></blockquote>

Hi John:

Acutally PECO does it a little differently than the others. They produce they're Code 55 track by "sinking" standard Code 80 rail into the tie bed futher which actually creates a Code 55 spec. I personally think this is an ingenious idea and while it does make their Code 55 track more robust, you still have the same problems with the flanges of older stock.

Those of you who say it's not a problem I must respectfully disagree with you. If you run early models (and even some of the currently produced European and Japanese models) the bottom of the wheel flanges is acually running on the tie bed! You may be able to get away with it on straight sections but it will catch up with you on turnouts and other "tricky" track work. Trust me, I've been in N-Scale for a little over 25 years now and there's little I haven't experienced.

I still offer my strongest recomendation that Code 55 track is best left to those who run the latest American prototype equipment and do not plan to run any European, Japanese, Brass and/or Vintage equipment.

[ 28 July 2001: Message edited by: swissrhb ]</p>

 

Thanks "swissrhb"
Your comments are very much appreciated. I would really like to use Peco code 55 on my new layout but not at the expense of some of my earlier models. I do have a small amount of code 55 on my present layout (including a double slip)so it looks like I need to thoroughly test all my stock before I finally commit myself.
Thanks again,
John.

 

Here in San Diego (SDSONS) we have ME code 55 laid in our hidden yards, and there is no problems with any flange cleance except for Rapido equipment. The track has been in use for 12 years or so. Hope this helps you out on your decision, personaly I would go with ME 55.
Good luck, Jim

 

First of all if you choose n-scale you limit yourself anyway so go with the better looking track. Most of the stuff you will be able to get will be new, due soon, or junk. For roadbed I use woodland scenics foambed it is awesome. I had it down in HO scale for over a year in room with no heat or ac and didnt have any problems at all. I use liquid nails for foamboard to put it down and to put the track down also. If careful you can remove and relocate track with this method.

 

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John Whitby:
Thanks "swissrhb"
Your comments are very much appreciated. I would really like to use Peco code 55 on my new layout but not at the expense of some of my earlier models. I do have a small amount of code 55 on my present layout (including a double slip)so it looks like I need to thoroughly test all my stock before I finally commit myself.
Thanks again,
John.<hr></blockquote>

That's actually the best "plan of attack" John. I see that many of people here disagree with me but it seems that most of the people on this forum mostly model the American scene and may not have much experience with the European N-Scale equipment like you and I do. Set up a test loop of Code 55 and see if any of your equipment has issues. Be sure to listen and observe VERY CAREFULLY! Believe it or not it's sometimes not very obvious when a Loco or piece of rolling stock is riding on the tie bed. Thanks to my career I have developed a critical ear which usually informs me there's a problem long before my eyes do.

BTW, I also have a huge collection of BEMO HOm equipment and share your enthusiasm for the Swiss Railways (hence my screen name "swissrhb"). Unfortunately, I don't have the time needed to build a BEMO layout right now but someday I will . Incidently of the two types of track Codes available for BEMO which are the older Code 83 (made by BEMO) and the newer Code 70 (actually made by Shinohara and only packaged by BEMO) there are no flange problems as there are with N-Scale but be forwarned that the BEMO Code 70 track is extremely fragile and will definitely need much attention to be installed properly.