I've got 5 smallish (1" to 1 1/2" diameter) silos that I'm planning to build for a mill complex. I was planning on using PVC pipe, but am debating whether wood dowel would be a better choice (easier to get flat tops & bottoms?). Any reco's or advice from anyone that's build them?
I haven't built any silos, but I do have a technique for getting flat edges on things. I use a razor saw in a miter box to get as straight a cut as I can. If, for some reason, it's not QUITE straight enough I drag the edge I want flat across the surface of a large mill file, laid flat on the table, being careful to apply even pressure and keep the piece perpendicular to the file. I check it often against a square. Hope this helps...
I've used both. I cut them on a radial arm saw, so squareness is not an issue. If it is, then Steamdonkey's method is tried and true.
PVC pipe here as well. Far easier to deal with if the cut isn't square as it is not solid like dowel.
Dave, What are the silo's made of in 1:1 scale? If the are concrete or corrugated steel, PVC would be my suggestion also. If they are corrugated, it would be easier to skin the PVC with a styrene sheet of corrugated material. If concrete, easier to score form lines into it them if plastic.
Concrete and cement block are the material of choice. Unless you are talking Harvestores and the were steel and colored blue. But most likeley concrete.
Just an FYI, most local Home Depot's carry PVC in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" in one foot lengths for quick repairs.
I just made some silo's out of 1" PVC pipe with styrene caps. PVC was cut square on a table saw. Styrene caps were rough cut out of sheet styrene and then chucked in a dremel and carved/sanded to shape. Then glued to the PVC using Testors modeling glue. I sanded the whole side of the PVC to blend the edges together nicely and added putty where needed. I'm going to drill the styrene caps for hand rails and piping to be added before painting.
Thanks gang. RIck - those look great. Sounds like PVC is the way to go. I don't have access to a table saw so that makes it a little trickier - I've got to do 4 of them that have to be exactly the same height....but experimenting a little the PVC is easier to work w/ than the dowel.
I use a styrene cap on the top and bottom of my PVC elevators. This elevator has a little lip at the top, but it can be filed to make this addition appear seamless. I attach the styrene with CA glue. I also CA the PVC tubes together. This does not eliminate the need to cut the tubes as precisely as possible, but it will allow for a little error if you don't have a table saw. Here is a larger PVC tube structure.
Dave, You can cut the PVC with a hack saw. I have a chop saw that helps me to line them and up and it's done quicker then I can describe it here. Flash, Excellent work on your silo's. I prefer your construction, and roof top details...the tops vents and etc., over what's on my silo's. Nice work. Dave, Keep us advised as to how that project goes. This should be interesting and fun to build.
Dave, Figure out how big you need them. I have a band saw and a bench top belt sander that we can use to get the square if need be.
here is my grain elevator (a part old one, a part new one) built starting from a faller kit and some PVC pipes...
Dave, Mark me down also for using PVC. These were done with PVC cut on a bandsaw and the ends squared up with a disc sander. The same could be done using a hack saw. You would need to build a small jig to hold the PVC tubes square then use a sanding block, square the ends up . I topped the stacks with styrene cut close to fit, then sanded off any areas that stood proud of the edges. If you run some 100 grit sandpaper over the outside of the PVC it gives it a more roughed up look like real concrete as well as giving the surface a tooth for paint to hang on to. Brian
