Hi, I think from haunting around the threads here i will most likely be getting a Digitrax controller but what i am not up to steam on,(excuse the pun), is will any dcc Board in the different engines work on the Digitrax or do i have to buy the right decoder boards to work with the Digitrax?? I plan to use a max of three engines at any one time on a small layout, 30X48 inches but a logging layout. A goose and two shays. I am still getting up to steam on this and since it will be the first dcc layout, i am really lost! Since the engines i am getting are decoader equipped i might as enjoy it! I don't remember the brand of the Shays but the goose is a con-cor. I also forgot to ask if two truck or three truck Shays but i don't think that makes any difference. I saw a reference to a controller for the switches but couldn't get it in my head as to how the things work? I know..Lots of questions, but short on answers so here i come! i am running N Scale if that makes any difference Thanks, Dan :tb-biggrin:
Hi Dan, Any brand DCC decoder (board or wired) will work with the Digitrax system or any other system. You enjoy DCC once you start. Gary
Thanks for that. That was something i couldn't find even on the Digitrax site. So that should work with everything i have. One other thing i also haven't found is, Do all the boards come with sound and is it programmable for say steam or diesel, ect?? IF they don't, does that mean i need a sound/ decoder board or just add the sound to the one in it?? I should have put these in the first post but CRS is always in play. Thanks again, Dan:tb-confused:
Don't jump to fast. The controller is just fine but there is a lot to non sound and sound decoders, plus locos available with DCC and sound and converting locos. Many are not plug and play. Do a Google search for DCC decoders. Do a lot of reading before jumping. I buy most DCC stuff from Litchfield Station. Good prices and shipping charges and good support. They have answered my decoder questions before. Do a Google search for Litchfield Station. Store the links you find in Favorites. You will refer to them often. Rich
Yep..They are about 100 Miles from me! Just don't want to go up till i am ready. I will get the boards when ready along with the controller and have them do the work. Sounds like that would be the best idea. Thanks again. Dan:tb-nerd:
As a rule you need to buy either a 'plain' decoder OR a sound decoder. Sound decoders tend to be a lot more expensive and although not a lot larger than a 'plain' one are more challenging to install because they usually need a speaker ... space is often tight. I think most sound decoders come with a specific prime mover sound (not just steam/diesel, but different models of them) though many can be configured for things like the horn sound by use of CVs. Some decoders can be programmed with a new sound set, but you would need a PC with software or special programmer to do this, which is cost and effort. As a beginner I'd try and buy one with your requirements built in. You can get sound only decoders to add to a plain one, but again space can be a problem. These are usually used in dummies/trailers or as a retrofit. If you want sound in a powered unit then it's better to get it included from the start.
OleSmokey, Just sent you a PM. Sound in N scale is a hard go if you are talking diesel units. Steam is a tight fit but can be done. But you must have a tender large enough to put the decoder and speaker into. Shay's with sound?? I have trouble getting a decoder into the Atlas two truck Shay's. Got to use a very small decoder like a TCS Z2 or a Lenz mini-silver series decoder to make fit with out cutting up the loco. Have fun
ESU makes the LokSound micro 3.5 decoder that is pretty small. When you pick the decoder you want, you pick the specific engine sound you want. LokSound also makes speakers only 1/2" wide. I installed one in a Z scale Challenger tender with the smaller speakers - sounds great. Another option we "Z scale nuts" are using is a dummy B unit with the decoder/speaker in the B unit wired to the A unit.
I would think that the shay would be easy to put the decoder and speaker in those shays as the back tender should give more room without really grinding out the boiler. Iguess I will find out when its time...:tb-confused:
Dan, I think most of your questions on locos have been answered so let me take a stab at the rest of the layout. The first thing you need to keep in mind with DCC is that *everything* can / should be controlled by that thing in your hand (the DCC controller). The days of setting up control blocks (with insulated rail joiners, etc.) can come to an end with the exception of reverse loops and/or wyes (but there are DCC units to manage those, too!). You are still free to break your track down into sections, but DCC control blocks can be a costly proposition - not that they're not worth it, but you need to decide if they're really needed for a pike of your size. DCC can be used to control switches and various other track-related accessories. Since you don't mention what type of track you plan to use, I can only guess as to the type of turnout controls planned. A number of switch controllers (Tortoise comes to mind) are pre-wired for DCC, or again can be adapted via DCC control units (like the MRC 1628). Regarding your choice of controllers, I recommend actually trying a couple out before you buy. I know this may be hard to do, but while they may look similar the touch, placement of controls, etc. is actually pretty different. My local hobby shop has an NCE DCC controller, which I use when testing out prospective purchases. Its buttons are laid out different than my MRC Prodigy A2, so I always have to look at the controller to make sure I don't run a loco off the test track. Another thing to consider is whether you are or will be part of a local club. It sounds like a lot of clubs are going the DCC route, and unfortunately the hand-held controllers are NOT interchangeable between brands. Personally I am very happy with my decision to build my latest layout in DCC. For me those days of bundles of wire under the benchwork to control track, switches, etc., are all in the past. (Of course, I'm replacing them with building and sign lighting!) I hope you find it to be equally enjoyable. - Dave
Sorry a didn't get back to you sooner but things are getting hectic around here. My dw is getting ready for surgery and so things may be a hit and miss till she gets better. I am checking out all the different company's and decoders. I am wanting to go with Digitrax Zephyr.Will have around 12 switches so i will need three of the DS-64 and Sound decoders for the three engines. That is the basic. The long is Pecos track and Micro Engineering bridge track,Peco's switches and like you said, tortoise controllers. I will be doing some lighting like houses but i will get a small junk transformer so i can give the track all the power it needs. The layout will be only 30X48 but, if i do have enough room when i finish the trailer i could maybe size it up to say 36X60. Same plan. Makes it a little easier on the locos. Am going to be so glad to get that trailer finished. Looks like it will be next summer before i can lay anything out to see how much layout i can fit. But i can buy stuff i will need when it comes up on sale and things like that. My second layout i kinda made it quick and paid the price that time so i am taking it slower this time.I have heard the term chainsaw layout used and that is kinda what happened with that layout I will miss running some trains but will be worth it in the long run. The plan is gold, Just a few ideas and smooth the rough edges out. It should be a really great layout when finished but will have to see what i mess up or break....yeah that...:tb-sad: Thanks and i will most likely have more questions as i continue my research. Check in later, Smokey :thumbs_up:
