Track Alignment during build

I'm not sure if this the right area to post this but I'll give it a whirl.

I am in the middle of building my layout. I generally have track laid but have run into 2 issues. Number one issue is alignment of track. I have notice that when connecting flex track to my turnouts I am having a really hard time maintaining good alignment. The flex seems to want to come in at a slight angle on the order of 3-5 degrees. When I try to run a loco past it, it literally jumps off the rails. My 0-8-0 Rivarossi, having larger drivers compared to my GP40 or SD24, can power its way through. The 4 axle GP40 can almost get through as long as I go slow, but the 6 axle SD24 is hopeless. All my radii are 18" or bigger which I realize is tight for the SD24 but it doesn't seem to care.

Problem number 2 is mostly self-inflicted I am reusing all my 30+ year old flex and turnouts. Most of the flex is code 100 Atlas but all the turnouts are code 83 Atlas #6 and old Model Power curved Turnouts (18" and 22" radii). What is the best way to join the code 83 and code 100?

 

Hi,

Maybe I can help with question #1.

Try soldering a short piece of sectional track (either straight or curved) to the flex and then connect the sectional to the switch.

Gary

 

I have had many "don't do that!" lessons learning how to work with flex track. I try to maintain a tangent for about 1" beyond a turnout. I've also tried pre-bending the flex track so that it has a small amount of curvature.

 

You can connect code 100 flex track with code 83 turnouts. There're transition rail joiners!

Wolfgang

 

I may have missed it but are we talking about HO or N scale?

If HO, the radius of track, as you indicated, is to tight for six axle diesels. If you are talking about N Scale, you have an exceptionally large curve...a 36" approximate equivalent to HO.

Having no idea if we are talking about a curved section after the switch or a straight section...I'm guessing you are trying to put in a curve.

For either N or HO scale flex track: My suggestion is as follows, when you get ready to attach the switch and flex together, do the following. Spot the flex track so the sliding side is on the outside of the curve. Take a razor saw and cut away the first two sets of rail spikes under each rail. This will give you clearance for the rail joiners. Place the rail joiner onto the rails. Now slide both sets of rails onto the rail joiners. Move the sliding slide until it aligns with no tangents or angles to the switch. Give yourself a 1 inch straight section after the switch before you start to bend the flex track.

With regard to any scale you work with: Wider radius curves are better curves.

 

Thanks for all the alignment tips so far! I was thinking I should put in short straight transition pieces.

BarstowRick: Yes we are talking HO. I know 18" is too tight for the 6 axle SD24 but it does actually run quite well and I only have 1 18" curve. The rest are 20"+.

Wolfgang: I'll have to check my LHS to see if they have any of the transition joiners. Any thoughts if they don't?

 

My HO gauge six axle diesels would make it around most of my 18" radius curves and then when you weren't looking they'd jump the track. The scanner would sound off..."Another of Rick's locomotives is in the dirt".

I do hope we've all been able to help you .

There's nothing like this hobby.

 

If you can not find transition jointers you can crimp the railjointer and lay it under the 83 rail and slide the code 100 in the track and solder it all togeter and you have to do a little filing works like a charm make sure the joint between tracks are well supported

 

LOL, yes it was lively.

I respect PPUIN's response, "Right or wrong?" Humm, I do see different ways to build your layout as right or wrong. I could indulge myself in a lively argument...just not today. Grin!

How can two of us, the same age and most likely with the same number of years of model railroading experience, have differing opinions? Hummmm! Consider this, the five of us here on the mountain certainly differ on how to build a model railroad. Gosh, we are a diverse group of thick headed, flared nostrills, free mouthing...well, you get the point. And, we grab at almost every chance we can... to get together and shoot the bull. Maybe it's because we are all hard of hearing. Do you think?

The following: This from the "School of hard knocks and lessons learned". And from the sub-file, "The for what it's worth department".

"Experience" has taught me: Everytime! I put the sliding rail on the inside of the curve the track narrows causing the six axle trucks to ride up and out of the rails. DERAILING! Not a pretty picture.

Continuing from that same, "Voice of Experience": On my layout now under construction, I had a S curve and forgot to move the sliding side to the outside, as I transitioned from one curve to the other. Yep, you guessed it. It had narrowed to the point that most of my larger 4 driver stoves and six axle diesels would lift up and out of the rails. I had to remove it, as it was out of gauge....I flipped it around, reinstalled it and now it works perfectly.
I'll stand by my recommendations.

You see somewhere, in the great abyss of verbal information, the grapevine, and/or rumor mill a statement was allegedly made by an Atlas Representative that quotes him as saying "The sliding rail should be on the inside". I've never been able to confirm that. There's more to this story but I will save it for later.

Experienced model rails, those I trust, instructed this once newbie to move the sliding rail to the outside of the curve. In their words, "The track will be properly gauged".

You can follow the advice as stated in the quote above. It's about choice and what works best for you. You've got to appreciate someone's honesty when sharing various techniques...right? PPUIN isn't alone. I've visited many a home layout and club layouts and found the flex track laid out as he described. I watched as the larger locomotives fought the rails and in some cases derailed.

Something else you might find helpful: I don't use nippers for cutting track. I prefer to use a dremel tool with a good cutting disc. It doesn't leave burr's that can interfer with installing a rail joiner. Not to mention cause a locomotive or train car to bump unsightly over the joint.

To assure you get your money's worth. Here's a real pot stirrer. I don't use plastic rail joiners nor do I recommend you use them. In time they get brittle and the track will go out of gauge. Instead I cut in my isolators using a Dremel tool and offset the gaps. I have a CYA procedure to accomplish this and Mark Watson, has another way and means to accomplish the same task. Yes, I'd recommend it. More if you want or need it...later!

Tip of the day. This should stir up a hornets nest or two. Never remove the ties from under the rails. Exception: Unless one is hanging out beyond the rails. Instead cut in a gap with a razor saw between the rail and ties. To cut the plastic rail spikes off. Allowing you to slide the rail joiners onto the rail. You will need the ties to keep the rail joint in gauge. A little CA Gap Filling, poured under the rail and top of the ties. This will hold it securely in place.

Use a NMRA track gauge to check and see if the rails are properly gauged.

Did that hurt too much? The last tip was free. I'll send you a bill for the advice heretofore shared. COL

Have fun whatever you do. It's your choice. That is... after all is said and done.

This has been an unpaid, self sponsored, in my self defense... response. I approve of this message.

Gosh! I've been watching to many political adds on TV...me thinks. LOL

For free: It takes less time to do it right the first time then to explain why you didn't and fix it.
.

 

What no lively responses?

As a retired mortician I may need to bury this thread out in the back yard. LOL

Have a good weekend.

 

You stated in "problem #2" that you were using 30+ year old flex track, old Atlas and Model Power (very funky) switches. This may be your real problem. It would be akin to building a new home and using "pre used" sinks, bathroom fixtures, water heater, etc...
Why not start out right with new stuff? And get rid of those old Model Power switches. Go with new Atlas code 83 flex and switches or similar.
OK, did I stir this up?
Woodie

 

Yep, that should of done it.

I have friends (I have a friend...well maybe not after he reads this) who wants to reuse old track and relay it like it was the old Lionel tin type, 3 rail. Most of our HO and N scale flex track isn't meant to be laid down time after time. It can end up with kinks in it and go out of gauge giving you all kinds of fits.

The sectional track although designed to be picked up and put down, will develop gauge problems... after a time.

I'm with Mongol on this one...ahh...Mogollon. Another bad example of how to win friends and impress enemies. baffled:

 

To be honest, I would love to start with all new "stuff". At least it would all be the same size and I wouldn`t have to spend hours with the BrightBoy cleaning rails. I`d also like to go DCC, however, I can't afford 3 expensive hobbies; new lenses for my cameras drive my wife nuts and don't get her started on my need for new sails and other gear for my 36 year old 30' sailboat!

The railroad is a proof of concept, if it turns out well, she might give me more space to build another, larger layout. At least I have her interested in doing the scenic portions of this one while I get to`play`with the trains!

 

Patrick,

I hope that's correct.

We all have to start somewhere and most of us started by trying to get the most out of what we had or could afford. I had to decide on one hobby. Kind of limiting.

Anyway, we wish you the best and I hope you do get your layout up and running.

Enjoy!wink:

 

I have had locos running on the track. Layout is okay, just the alignment in and out of the switches needs to be worked on. Next step is gluing down the sub-road bed (1/8") foam to the 2" extruded.

 

Wish I was close enough to stop in and give you a hard time. Ahh, I mean help you out.

Have fun with your hobby.