I have put down some plaster cloth along the edge of what I'm hoping will be a cut rock face and what I am wondering is what do I use to smooth it out and cover the gaps and holes in the cloth? I have tried to smooth out the plaster as much as possible, but I'm sure there will be a few open spots.
I'm relatively new at the stuff too. Most people use two overlapping layers to ensure a minimum of holes. I try to avoid that since I want to maximize my plaster cloth supply! I heard if you use warm water, if goes on smoother, and you can just rub the plaster with your fingers to cover the holes. It's worked for me, but you have to act relatively quickly. Once it's dry, you can use lightweight spackling compound or Sculptamold to cover your holes or fill in gaps. I've used both, I've been using Sculptamold more.
Plaster (well, hydrocal anyway) works. The problem with plaster cloth is when you try and plant trees in the very very thin material. Nothing to keep the armatures from rotating, unless you use hot glue under the table to reinforce the base. This is a lot harder under the table than just using plaster in the first place.
As I was new to the scenery game just 3 mos ago, perhaps what I did might help flesh out a method for Sierra117. I put the cloth over the terrain forms (*) pretty much as WS required, although I used less by reducing overlap. I dampen the cloth slightly to improve control. Make sure the right surface is up. When the area is covered, paint the surface with water to wet the cloth, then let it dry a bit. Mix up your plaster to consistancy of "slip" and paint the surfaces as needed to cover over the mesh any voids in the surfaces. When dry you'll have a smooth surface ready for coloring and further work. (*) Terrain forms: I use foam leftovers, bunched together to the approximate shape of the terrain for the base of the terrain. This provides good support for insertions of any kind--if the foam isn't 100% under an insertion, the void isn't very deep and can be still used for support. I got interesting, realistic "rock faces" as a consequence of the "random" faces and edges of the underlying foam scraps. So far, matches my needs for modelling semi-arid desert vor alpen of the Eastern Cascades without using any other modelling techniques. biggrin: works for me.
I have found the cloth that I purchase at the local medical supply is not prone to "holes' Also, it comes in varying widths, and is less expensive, but of higher quality, than the stuff available in the LHS. Since you already have your cloth in place, you might try a roll of the narrowest to use as a patching material. As to setting things in plaster (trees, etc.) i have found that a watery mix of plaster of paris fed into the hole with a coarse eye dropper (1/8" outlet hole) does a good job of holding in place. Temporary support of the 'planted' item may be needed in some cases.
I like to use Sculptamold to fill and form over foam or other bases. It should work well to fill holes and allow you to vary the terrain over your plaster cloth. Sculptamold is a plaster & fiber mixture that you just add water to. It sets up firm, but it is easier to "plant" trees in because it is not a hard shell like Hydocal. I think I have tried all the methods and I like Sculptamold best. You can see some of my scenery by going to my Facebook page. The link is in my signature.
Sculptamold works pretty well. As someone else mentioned, though perhaps in a different way, you need to put a "skim coat" of something on top of the cloth to fill in the holes. Doesn't need to be thick. If you will be planting a lot of tall trees, you may want to think about using something like window screen material impregnated with plaster as your base. Or just use it under the plaster cloth. It's more expensive, but it will hold up much better.
Window screening is extremely inexpensive and will obviate the need for the plaster cloth in the first place. If you prefer the cloth, consider Durham's Rock Hard Putty. It is in powder form in the can and a little will go a long way.
I will also throw in a vote for the Sculptamold over plaster cloth method. Until recently, I was also new to plaster cloth (or any other scenery materials). I used the following "layers" for my basic terrain: cardboard lattice masking tape plaster cloth Sculptamold textured latex paint I have been EXTREMELY happy with the results. When I initially lay down the plaster closth, I do have a lot of the "holes" that you describe, but I can usually get rid of them by spraying a mist of water and smoothing the plaster with my fingers. However, I still find the plaster cloth to be too rough for my terrain so I add the thin layer of Sculptamold. If you like plaster cloth (like I do) you will love Sculptamold (like I do). Magical stuff. Here is a layer of Sculptamold being applied to a hardened layer of plaster cloth: Jamie
I don't have any Sculptamold and the "craft/hobby" stores here local (Hobby Lobby and Michael's) are both way too lame to carry it, but I do have a bucket of Plaster of Paris handy! I mixed some up and used a makeup brush my other girlfriend (inside joke around the house and my circle of friends) left here when she moved out to "paint" the plaster onto the area I'm working on. It left a nice, smooth, even coat and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out! Thank you all for the input and I will have to get my hands on some of that sculptamold. It sounds like a modeler's best friend in regards to scenery!
Brian, I actually found Sculptamold at Hobby Lobby earlier this year, although I have not seen it stock since I purchased that one bag. Recently, I have found it in stock at HobbyTown USA; you may want to check there if you have one nearby. Jamie
I haven't seen it at Hobby Lobby and I have looked quite a bit and the people at Michael's have never even heard of it. I do have a HobbyTown about 40-50 minutes from here, but the manager is a complete @$$hole so I never go in there. He likes to talk down to me like my lack of knowledge should make it illegal for me to buy hobby supplies. I will just wait until my next trip to Denver to get some.
I am using a foam base and WS risers and inclines. How do I attach the window screening to the base? Thanks, Rod
