Joint Compound

css29 Jan 23, 2011

  1. css29

    css29 TrainBoard Member

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    This is the only joint compound I have on hand. Can I use this for scenery?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mike C

    Mike C TrainBoard Member

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    You can use it as a topcoat, BUT it will take a looooong time to dry out. The thicker it is the longer it will take to set up....Mike
     
  3. retsignalmtr

    retsignalmtr TrainBoard Member

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    I only use it for making roads. When I lay out the roads location I stick down some of the fibreglass mesh tape used for drywalling, then smooth it on in thin layers until it is the right thickness, letting it dry between applications. For scenery I would use lightweight Hydrocal to create hardshell scenery and for casting rocks.
     
  4. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    It will crack as it dries if you put on more than 1/4" thick at one time. Like Mike says, it's best as a finish coat over Sculptamold, plaster gauze, or similar.

    I hadn't thought of using it for roads over adhesive-backed joint mesh. Good idea, thanks!
     
  5. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    As already noted, it will crack if much more than a skim coat.

    Boxcab E50
     
  6. Ferroequinologist1

    Ferroequinologist1 TrainBoard Member

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    Craigs: I use the 25, 45 or 90 minute dry powder drywall compound that is mixed with water. You have to use what is mixed before it hardens, but the 2nd and 3rd coat can be applied in a short time. It drys hard and is carveable and inexpensive. I add tan paint or brick dye to my mix so that a chip in the future is not apparent. Also the bags are readily available at the local Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Also this material lends itself to ground cover and trees. I have been using it for 20 or more years with good results.
     
  7. css29

    css29 TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for all the great answers. Guess it is time for a road trip to Home Depot.
     
  8. Kitbash

    Kitbash TrainBoard Supporter

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    On the two layouts I have built, I used it skimmed over common cardboard as roadways. The technique was from an MR article back in the late 80's to way-early 90's. I could be wrong, but I think it was a Lou Sassi article.

    Anyway. It works well. And to emphasize what is stated several times above, LIGHT coats. To much, and it cracks as it dries.

    Here's a shot of one of the roads I built. Joint compound over common cardboard and then airbrushed finish:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Pete Nolan

    Pete Nolan TrainBoard Supporter

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    I used it thick and thin, always expecting a second or third coat that would fill in the cracks. Cheapest stuff around, so planning for a second coat to fill the cracks on the first coat, or a third for cracks in the second was just ordinary. Joint compound is all I used, for everything. It's heavy and weak--but it is cheap, especially in the 5-gallon bucket.

    Sometimes the cracks, which form randomly, are part of my scenery.
     
  10. kursplat

    kursplat TrainBoard Member

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    i was just thinking "aren't cracks in the street normal?" :tb-biggrin:
     
  11. Cowboy

    Cowboy TrainBoard Member

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    Not to hi-jack the thread, but could you use it to build concrete pads?
     
  12. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Maybe. But it wouldn't be thick and you wouldn't be able to move it. Whether "concrete" or "asphalt" depends on how you color it. I just use artist acrylics.
     
  13. Cowboy

    Cowboy TrainBoard Member

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    Great. Thanks for the tip.
     

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