I have a 32" by 86" location I would like to use for a simple layout for my son and I to learn about hobby. I like the Kato Cal Zephyr 11 car pack and would use an a-b-a of CBQ engines. It looks like my space would only allow me a max curve of 15" radius using track by Kato. My question is: Is this setup going to work. I own nothing at this point. What engines would I be limited by? Want to use F3A's&B Or do the cars require more radius? I have "O" scale and every thing is clearly marked with the minimal recommended diameters. I can not find this info on most N scale items.
You'll probably want to start with this.. http://www.katousa.com/PDF/N-Unitrack.pdf That's a good starting point.. Generally passenger cars will work/look good on wider turns..
Welcome to the Trainboard first of all. And as previously started it will work but wider curve rad would look better. But as long as your not that picky it will work. Best to stay to smaller axle configurations on that smaller curves though. But most of all have fun; it's built right in.
Thanks, Yes, this is where I saw the different curves to find the max curve available that I could use within my space. I figured 15" rad is 30" diam and will fit on a 32" width shelf. Is this correct? I am not worried at this point on what "looks" good, but mostly interested on what will work. I do realize larger curves are better looking ascetically. It will be just for fun in beginning and maybe a little more serious later.
4848UP- Welcome to TrainBoard! I've moved your topic over to the N Forum, as you'll receive those responses you need, here. I would note that radius you mention may not quite, or just barely will fit 32 inches wide. Usually the track center line is where that measurement is taken. So you have material from there to the edge of roadbed to include in total width. Boxcab E50.
Welcome to trainboard. I'd recommend a combination of 12" and 15" radius track for your curves. I might be able to put together an example.
As mentioned the radius is to the track center, so doubling it will be smaller then the actual diameter. Kato Unitrack has a width of 25mm (a hair under 1"), so to get the diameter, multiply the radius by 2 and then add 1. So 15" x 2 + 1" = 31". You'd have 1/2" of clearance on either side, which I think most people here would agree is too small for N scale. 1-2" of clearance is tight but doable if you had already dropped to your minimum radius. In your case I'd do what others have suggested, mix various curves using the broader ones to transition into the tighte ones.
IMO You will be fine with the dimensions you have. Afterall as you said you are just starting out. The 15 radius are plenty. I have a little layout built with radius of 11 and I run the Kato Amtrak cars with no problems at all. The cars hangover considerably. However they still perform flawlessly. You can have lots of fun with the size you mentioned. I would guess though that eventually you will want more. It is a natural progression. Have fun.
OK.. I do have almost 33" and was leaving an inch off along wall for clearance, even if I had to put the side edge of bed right at the front edge of shelf. I was also told I could use flex track and create my own radius. I am not loyal to any brand yet. I do see 13.75 radius track also. This would keep me away from front and back edges, but was trying to get largest radius. I have a program for MTH O track to help with a layout. Is there anything like this in N? Thanks all for the help....
Thanks... I can't picture that in my head, but I am sure you know what you are doing. Would the combo of 12 and 15 be better than 15 all around? Or were you trying to keep me off the edges of my 32" measurement? I actually have almost 33" but shaved a little off for spare. I saw 13.75" radius also. I have heard of using 1/2 curves and short straights in between, so I guess must work the same. I was going to start with a simple oval. But if you can come up with something better-cooler or that works in my situation, that would be nice.
WOW is all I can say. I have been to other forums and not gotten this much help in days, let alone the few hours I have been on here. Great group. I will probably have many more questions than answers, so it is nice to have this forum. Found by searching info on google My main concern was buying all the stuff to try and then finding out it didn't work. Derailing was my biggest concern. Thanks for all the help, I am sure I will need more.. Rick
xtrackCAD I have been to this site, created a user name, read a lot, but can not get a program to open to start using. How do I start the program?
Yes, my concern is that you will be too close to the edge. On my layout I have an inner loop that is 30.5"s across the outside edges. It is made up of: 19" curve (#6 turnout) 15" curve 12" curve 1" straight 12" curve 15" curve 19" curve (#6 turnout) It would be safe for you to use: 15" curve 15" curve 12" curve 12" curve 15" curve 15" curve You might be able to ad a short straight piece in there. (I'm searching for the post from the guy who helped me calculate this for me using XtraCad).
Sample Track Plan Maybe this will give you an idea to start with. It uses two 12 inch Unitrack sections and four 15 inch sections to make up the 180 degree side curves as Steve suggested. Additional 28 inch broad curves are used to provide more visual appeal. Kato part numbers are printed for reference. This was designed with AnyRail. Jerry
Another program to try out is AnyRail - you can download a demo version that lets you use up to 50 sections of track. I find the drag and drop design is well suited for sectional track systems like Unitrack (it also supports flextrack). For curves my suggestion was to start the curve with a 15" radius piece, and then use a smaller radius for the middle of the curve. Using a 15" 30 degree piece for each end, and 13 11/16" piece for the middle (two 45 degree pieces and one 30 degree piece) you can create a curve with a diameter of about 28 1/2" including roadbed. You can mix flextrack with Unitrack, code 80 is easy while smaller rail like code 55 requires work to create a transition. To joining Unitrack and code 80 track just remove the Unijoiner with Kato's small blue tool, and then attach the code 80 rail using regular rail joiners. You'll want to use some roadbed to raise the other track up to the same height as the pre-ballasted Unitrack. One cavet for mixing Unitrack with other track is that Kato's track is Japanese - it is intended to represent cape gauge track, so the ties are bigger and spaced wider then the 'standard gauge' track Atlas et al sell.
What these guys are suggesting is a very good idea but I would carry it a bit farther. The result of using the different radius curves is creating an "easement". Easements smooth the transition from straight to curve and are especially helpful with long cars, locos, and passenger equipment. If you assemble a 180 deg curve in this order: 19" 15 deg 15" 15 deg 12 3/8" 45 deg 12 3/8" 15 deg 12 3/8" 15 deg 12 3/8" 45 deg 15" 15 deg 19" 15 deg You should end up with a 26.5" overall width. This gives you plenty of room for scenery outside the loop and your cars should look and run fine on it. If you want to go a little bigger: 19" 15 deg 15" 15 deg 13 3/4" 30 deg 12 3/8" 45 deg 12 3/8" 15 deg 13 3/4" 30 deg 15" 15 deg 19" 15 deg This gives 27.5" width. The widest would be: 19" 15 deg 15" 15 deg 13 3/4" 30 deg 13 3/4" 30 deg 13 3/4" 30 deg 13 3/4" 30 deg 15" 15 deg 19" 15 deg This gives you 29" width.
484UP...welcome to the greatest scale EVER! :tb-biggrin: It sounds like you and I share a bit of common experience...I had a pretty decently sized O Gauge layout but later moved to N...mainly becuase O is so expensive compared to N, but also it takes up so much space! As a former high-railer, I've found the focus on radii compliance with N scale isn't as critical as it is with O...as others have mentioned, you can get just about anything (that I know of) through those 15" radii. Also...your dimensions sound like your layout will be on a hollow core door...is that correct (if not, I'm going to waste a large chunck of cyberspace writing stuff that isn't relevant to you)? I started out that way (well, still am to my regret) but there are some problems you'll eventually face with a hollow core door....if its not inside your house/climate-controlled area, the thin surface wood can warp! Also, if you add any amount of scenery that has a decent amount of weight to it, that will also cause the thin surface wood to warp/bend - both of these scenarios are very hard to repair and are a big problem for your track (which you obviously want to site flush!). Also, due to the hollow core design and the Kato Unitrack, you must do something to insulate the track from the wood...a nice sheet of 1" stryofoam would do the trick to dampen a lot of the sound. Another potential issue with a hollow core door is that running wiring can be a bit of a pain....you've got that relatively large hollow gap between each veneer where its really difficult to put wire through without a) a really huge hole (not good) or b) some sort of 'guide' (I use either a plastic drinking straw or smaller hollow brass tubes). Anyway, its not a terrible platform for a layout, but there are some tradeoffs that are good to know before you get too far down the path!
my layout location No, this will be above a partial wall unit / book shelf / tv / desk / entertainment center. I plan to build a shelf to lay on top of the unit with plywood or similar. My plan was to make this into 3 sections so that it could be taken down and played with on the floor, but also run while up above. So it needs to be light. He will be able to observe from a bunk bed across the room. My son is almost 7, so we are still at an observing level at this point. My plan is to have it cross the front of shelf in a straight, flat line with the back / return line elevated and brought back towards the front of shelf and back to the back to start the final 180" back to front. Similar to layout picture included in this thread above or in my head a straight side and a peanut side connected by 2 180" curves. I would like it to cross a bridge in the back also for some architecture. My overall height of layout needs to be under 10". This leaves plenty of room for train above track and shelf below. My length was wrong, it is 106". Scenery is definitely down the road. Trees maybe as a filler. I do have limited space. My MTH O layout is on a perimeter shelf, above the doors, around the game room. Any larger layouts for me would involve joining a club.
