Hello, need someone to point me in the right direction. First a short story. I purchased a new MTH SD70 ACE with DCC. Discovered that the auto couplers were lower than the NRMA standard and it was causing problems. I called MTH and they told me that I was correct, they are too low, and some of the runs had this problem and it was an issue with the set up of the mold which has been corrected. So, here are the fixes they gave me. 1. Lower the height of the car that hooks up to the loco. 2. Shim the trucks on the Engine to raise it slightly to get to the right height. Beside the "You are kidding me moment I had" I just want to resolve this. So... Can anyone point me to a video or write up on how to remove the trucks on an MTH train so I can shim it up? Really would not like to break anything in the process. Thanks!
Why not just remove the MTH couplers and put on some good ole Kadee couplers. That is what I did on all 5 of my MTH SD70ACe locomotives and everything works just fine.
So you bought a brand-new locomotive, which no doubt was a significant chunk of $$$, and the company was aware of the issue with the low coupler heights, and they expect YOU to fix it. This attitude from the manufacturer just amazes me. Sorry I know this doesn't help your understandable wish to just get it to where it actually works the way you expected it to - but dang.....
Try that first.. The standards for all aftermarket couplers seem to be : Three shank lengths, each having three knuckle heights. I've managed to resolve most of my coupler-height/clearance issues with them.. Example: http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale Couplers.htm
I have five MTH SD70 ACE locos. Three BNSF, one UP and one UP CNW Heritage. I gave up on the automatic couplers my BNSF locos and installed Kadee #5 couplers and yes, I had to monkey with them a little. I ended up using Kadee draft gear box as the MTH ones would not work with the Kadee #5 spring. Then I had to install a small washer between the screw head and the gear box due to the fact there was too much play and the couplers would sag a bit. Now they are good to go height wise with the height gauge and have been working fine on the club layout. I have not converted the UP locos, I will do some test runs at the club and see how they do before I decide to replace them with Kadee couplers.
Yes, I did put on a Kadee #5 and the height is just right. It really is like they set up the train for a standard coupler and then put the automatic couplers on later. I would still like to a make a go of the auto couples at some point, but need to get the height issue resolved to mess with them. By the way, I saw a you tube video of a guy that discovered that the coupler mechanism was hitting as it tried to close. He "turned out" the coupler on the other side of it and then it worked at like 2mph perfectly. Really a good video that shows it much better than I described. Hoping a person who has taken off one of the trucks can give me a hand with how to do it....
MTH Coupler El45, Of course picking a freight car and lowering altering the coupler height on end is an old trick, of course, you must always use that car with that loco. What you surmise about the KD 5 fitting, sounds right on. The mold maker probably was in the habit of making the height correct for a #5. I rather like the remote coupler operation. Especially since there has been much expressed disatisfaction with trip pin and also, trying to fit that pin through openings in the loco front. I believe few are using them. Hadn't noticed this problem---have to look.
