Peco "Setrack" (rigid) is built to the same quality as the "Streamline" (flexible) track, and they can be used together. SETRACK IS CODE 80. Streamline can be Code 80 or Code 55. Setrack pointwork has a very narrow choice: left or right, 9 inch radius to match the curves. It depents on your locomotives, but this is tighter than Kato Unitrack at 9 3/4 inch. Some of my UK outline locos wouldn't go round Setrack but they did go round Unitrack without any argument. You were asking about "Double Standard Straight". It's nothing to do with answering one question in different ways according to who asks the question, you'll be pleased to know! Let's say the standard length of this track is 6 inches. The double is 12 inches. Regards, Pete Davies
yup i personally will be hand throwing those peco tracks (kato tracks will be remote) since they will be used on a switching line. love that snap action. great info here. i was only going to buy the setrack pack only because it came with sectional track. i suppose i can cut my own flex down. if i find a cheap setrack pack ill take that though, less work. the setrack seems harder to find in the usa. now....if only i had peco 55 track to test my pizza cutter wheels on. i bet they wont roll right..
REALLY? well then... now i just have to see how to join kato with peco 55 then if it can be done. i think flash61au gave me a PDF...
Hmm, I've been wondering too how some of my stuff would work on c55. I have an older Atlas SD-7 from the late 90's that I'm wondering if the wheels will work on it. Also, I was thinking that if I ever live somewhere with space for a decent sized layout, I'd consider using Unitrak on any hidden track, tunnels, a storage yard, etc. Not sure if they make curves big enough for a helix, but that might be another idea.
For the original poster (and anyone else)... notice that all comments have been directed at Peco Electrofrog turnouts. No one has said it so far, but I will throw my two cents in---- stay away from Insulfrog turnouts. --plastic frogs wear out over time --they tend to not be DCC compatible (at least older ones weren't). The two rails at the frog were so close together, that a little tiny itty bitty short happens on locos/cars with wide tread. The tread can touch both rails. This short-- however brief-- is just enough to shut the system down. And drive you crazy.
Have two years experience with Peco 55, flex and switches ... bulletproof and easy to install (I'm a beginner.) ... I would suggest using flex as it has been very easy to lay, pull up, and re-lay (many times!) ... One suggestion: Set-track pieces for fixed-radii curves might be used to assure smooth, fixed radii curves (have had trouble getting good looking curves.) BTW, have never snipped wires under the switches, nor soldered "jumpers" to assure connectivity--as is famously recommmended by Gartner. What's thatabout? After two years I now use electrofrog 55 switches, insullfrog 80 switches, narrow crossovers (55/80?), 80 flex/55 flex w/o any problems. Again, no special jumpers or wire cutting. I do follow the insulator placement that is required for C55 electrofrog for all segement connections. Have never had an out-of-gauge issue. Appearance is an issue for some (not me when the trains are running its hard to notice. Recommend Peco anytime.
why would a insulfrog affect dcc anyways? if one truck of my loco pass the frog arent both trucks still picking up info from the track? if a truck is right on top of the frog, i suppose only 1 truck is receiving power but still shouldnt that be enough? electronics is my weakest point as rick knows haha. ill have to read up on that article. i plan to have about 5 insulfrog switches on my new layout running dcc.
We may have a difference of opinion here. I've seen posts on the Peco Insulfrog code 80 turnouts and DCC and some don't like them and had bad experiences (like me) and others say they are OK. The problem is not with the turnout essentials- there's no inherent flaw in how the turnout works. The problem is with the fact that the two rails that come together that make the frog come VERY close to each other. These two rails are of opposite polarity. The frog itself is plastic-- so it is not the problem. The problem is these two rails right behind the frog. They are so close together that on some equipment, the tread of the wheels is able to reach out and touch BOTH rails. This causes a short. On DC, this short is so brief, it usually causes the loco to only hesitate, and then keep on moving-- no big deal. But in DCC, it is a dealbreaker- causing the system to shut down. What equipment? Anything that has a slightly large tread on the wheels. Many steamers seem to be very troublesome. But even a few diesels. Modern Kato locos with finescale wheels don't have as much trouble. People say the solution is: 1) shim the guard rails to keep the loco to the outside (but why would I want to do all that work?) 2) get rid of all offending equipment (I'd rather not use these Pecos). This is just my 2 cents worth-- other people have the same experience. But others don't have as many problems-- who knows, maybe Peco has solved all this. Once again, this is primarily a DCC issue.
This is a also a correct description of the issue with the 10 degree crossing. I have this issue on my layout.
wow, ok that was clear as water, sweet thanks! so i just tested my only DCC loco (IM sd45T2) right now through my only peco switch and it ran perfectly smoothly through it. i may be in the clear for all my locos but i wont know until i dcc them all up. i dont forsee to have any steamers.
anyone know where to get peco track in the states? the setrack sectional track...not the flex or other turnouts. been searching for days and google only brings up all UK dealers dahhh...even my LHS only has what most usa dealers have, no setrack. you can PM me if you feel uncomfy about discussing retailers :tb-tongue: i guess ebay is always an outlet but for the price of shipping from the UK, its basically buying used track at msrp costs.
Mine have been "OK." I have 5 peco insulfrogs. Non of them have shorted out the system, including: Athearn 2-6-0 & 2-8-0, Spectrum 2-8-0, Spectrum 4-6-0, G4, Life LIke 0-8-0, Challenger, etc. and more modern diesels. Some of the steam will stall occasionally coming in from one direction. I have the shorting problem on a couple Atlas insulfrogs, specifically on the Athearn 2-6-0 and Spectrum 2-8-0. Now I just buy electrofrog and haven't had the shorting or stalling problems.
No shorts for me I use only Peco track and switches. I took my time laying it and installing the switches.I also use super elevation on all curves. Flex track is the best way. I have mostly steam locos and have not experienced any of the problems that others have had. I use only c55, dcc by Digitrax Super Chief and miles of wire. Every piece of track, no matter how long, gets its own feeders dropped to the bus. I totally reccomend Peco c55 to everyone.
2 hints for using Peco C80&C55 I've been using Peco exclusively on my layout. I'm satisfied, but two things should be noted: 1. FoyValley metal wheels don't work well as they always will bump into the rather huge gap at the frog. That's not a fault of Peco TO, because when they were designed there was no small wheel tread on the market. Maybe someone has an idea how to narrow the gaps at Peco turnouts? 2. The Code 80 curved turnouts widen the gauge slghtly where the points meet the stock rail. I don't know why this is but it is enough to cause a derailment problem with FVM metal wheels. I use FVM wheels with the narrow wheel tread. If you plan to use them too be advised that there will be a few challenges to solve. Michael
Nearly all Peco turnouts have too much clearance between the stock rail and the molded plastic guardrail at the frog area. I routinely add an .010 styrene shim to the molded plastic guardrails to fix this problem, then check the gauge with an NMRA gauge. The shim helps pull the wheels over toward the stock rail and thus helps wheels track through the frog. Similarly, on the curved turnouts, I've used an .010 styrene shim between the outer stock rail and the outer set of "spikes" to cure the wide gauge problem. John C.
I do that, too (as I may have stated previously). It surprises me that the shim stays in place as well as it does. I rarely have to replace one.
