It's been almost 8 years, all I do is vacuum and wipe it down with a coffee filter about once a month.
Will using 70% alcohol on a coffee filter to wipe the track down...remove or otherwise effect the no ox ? I just feel using a dry coffee filter or cloth will just spread any dust around...as opposed to wiping it up...TIA
To answer the OP's original question: Kato Unitrack seems to be the most resistant to dirt and oxidation. All metal's oxidize and when nickel silver does, it's easily wiped off. Out of all the track cleaning/polishing techniques I've heard of I believe John Paulson's method and the No Ox is the answer. I could go into my take on all of this. No time for it at the present. I need to continue working on my layout. Besides, I've sounded off enough on this subject, already as this subject jumps up here on a regular basis. It makes me wonder... is anyone really listening? A shout out of support to John and his track care technique. Give it a try.
I'm using Atlas N Scale track in a N Scale Subway. Other then the stations, the tunnels are not exposed. Do you think it is necessary to clean my track? If so, how do I do it?
I would say so, because wheels are going to track in all sorts of dirt. I plan on using a track cleaning car to clean my Helix.
It will not effect the no-ox. The no-ox actually penetrates the rail to protect it. A little alcahol on the least used sections of track may be neede from time to time. I use some in the yard area. Why? because I feel a piece of cloth on my finger is less likely to cause damage than the vacuum.
I was having a similar problem with oxidation on my layout. Cleaned it using a variety of methods... Seemingly every 3 or 4 days. Last August I used Labelle Track Conditioner (Labelle #105) for the first time. I think it serves a similar purpose to No Ox or Clipper oil. The treads on my locomotive wheels would get black streaks, and as the black built up, conductivity to the locomotive would decrease. I haven't had to clean the track since last August. And while there is a black substance that still covers the rail head, the treads on the loco wheels remains black-streak free and conductivity remains excellent.
Well, for derailed tains... The SCTA has prevention measures in place! :tb-biggrin: -Tomytek Subway Cars have replacement metal trucks -Wide Radius track will be installed In case of a derailed train... All passengers will exit to the nearest station where police will be waiting 1) SCTA's diesel work train will go down and attempt to retrieve a single end or pull part of the train closer to safety 2) If 1 does not work, SCTA's Diesel Work will try to bombard and push it closer to visibility. 3) If 2 does not work, Precision tools and a Bendable camera will be used in attempt to remove the derailed train 4) If 3 does not work, sections of the street will be dug up to retrieve the train. Track repairs will be made, speed limit will be tightened, and radius may extend. In case of track repair...make sure its perfect before the tunnels are sealed! 5/6 SCTA Stations (Possibly 7/7) will be extremely assessable by a specially purchased pair of tweezers.
We're entering the season where I have most of my problems - humidity levels starting to go up. I use alcohol in 90% concentration to clean track and locomotive wheels. Just had an Atlas SD50 start to stall today - put the alcohol on a piece of paper towel and then ran each wheel set over the paper towel - what a mess of black junk came off! Once a week I run a car that has a weighted track cleaner pad under it around the layout several times. Works well except when the humidity levels climb - then I use alcohol on a cotton cloth to clean rails. I have to admit that I have never cleaned the wheels on rolling stock...
Well, I tried the suggestion of Deoxit (couldn't get NOOX in Australia) and I can't believe how it has transformed the way trains run on my track. I first put the red on, left it for a couple of hours, wiped it with a clean cloth and applied the gold to the track. Next I put a tiny amount on all electrical connectors in my trains. They are transformed. Everything I hated about the Atlas track has disappeared. The trains run smoothly, the headlights don't flicker, and the trains no longer stall....I'm sold. Best bucks I have spent. I would have got the NO-OX, but will have to try mail order from the US for it. I still don't know why I had so much trouble with the brand new track, but if I had to apply this stuff every 6 months I'd be happy. How long does the De Oxit last? BTW, thank you for all the folks who bothered to reply with info, much appreciated! Now I'll be asking more train related "pleasant" questions.... cheers Gary in Australia
Gary, I’m glad to hear it worked for you, but the real test is how you feel about it in 6 months. If you have to wipe down the track once a week, than that’s too much for me. Actually once a month is more than I want to do. cool: I am interested and I hope you report back in 6 months.
Gary, I have not had to reapply deoxIt to my track yet, I just wipe it down to remove any dust! The old 1980s locos that I treated with it still work great today, and that has been years ago. A friend of mine after hearing about it purchased some and has used it on his old HO locos and just loves it! I use it on every electronic connection I have and have cut down connection problems to zero.
This sounds like there are slightly different solutions to the conductivity problem. As far as I know, none of these chemicals existed 30-40 years ago. Certainly I did not use them on my layout. It's progress! I use No-ox on my layout. I just ordered the DeoxIT to try on the Peco switch (turnout) points. I have to clean them periodically as I rely on them to conduct electricity.
No-ox from what I read on there web site is no more than a silicone grease. I used silicone grease way back in the 1980s, it does work great for some things. I didn't state I used DeoxIT in the 1980s, I said I used it on old 1980s locos to get them running again. I have several Kato GP38s, GP50s, Atlas Kato RS3/RS11 ect., that used the truck frame to chassis frame connection. I have been using DeoxIT for a little over 8 years, best stuff I have found for electronic connections.
I first read about No-Ox in a MR review written by Lynn Wescott. What hasn't been mentioned in this thread is why No-Ox is not like any of the other good choices. The product is NOT an anti-oxidant. It is to be used on clean oxide free surfaces where it produces a conductive oxide of copper. This oxide has more resistance than oxide free copper, but not enough to cause operational problems. It was designed for the electrical industry where it is used on contact surfaces. Robert
I put it on the rail head but not specifically in the notch that "keeps" the points. My problem is the dirt accumulating in that notch and not really the oxidation. The problem is infrequent but I will try the No-ox method, too, as you suggest.
Hello Gary. I also have poor pickup. But I use 2 treatments, which allow my layout to survive : 1) I m installing tantalum power packs in each loco: This solution significantly improove anti-stalling capabilities at extra low speeds due to dust. My locos newer stall! Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4hxSwWe8Vw 2) I spinging all wheels of each loco, this improove pickup 2-5 times. See stages of making here: http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/vadimav/album/125846/ And 2 videos, how it works: 1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-jtZsHNL_Y 2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYcpFB3V0zg -------- Vadim
