The new run of N scale Kato U30C diesels is supposed to be DCC drop-in ready. What I don't know is which N scale decoder to use. One site suggested the DN163K1C. Does anyone know this one? I checked both Digitrax and TCS's websites to see if they had any updates but they don't, yet. Adam
There is an very easy way to tell. What type of LED's are on the existing light board? If they are surface mount, then they would take the Digitrax DN163K1C. If not, they use the Digitrax DN163K1B or thier TCS equivalents. I alwys look at the factory light board before buying any decoder. Edit - I just saw a photo of the unit with the shell removed. Since it has the replaceable motor tabs and surface mount LED's, the best decoder is the Digitrax DN163K1D.
I'll probably end up doing that. My BN Bicentennial U30C is in the shop. When I go get it, probably this coming week, I'll just pop the shell off after the test run and see what's under the hood. Thanks for narrowing it down.:thumbs_up:
TCS's website and a couple of vendors indicate that the TCS K1D4-NC is the correct decoder. I am going to the hobby shop late this afternoon to pick mine up, Lord willin' and the creek don't rise. I will be popping the shell off after the DC test run and comparing with available stock to be sure and I will report back what I learn.
All right. This is what I learned today at the hobby shop. I got my U30C, threw it on the test track, and it ran like a dream on DCC. I popped the shell off and looked at the light board. The shop had Digitrax DN163K1C decoders in stock. I compared the two side by side. The decoder was a little longer to the rear than the light board. I looked at the inside of the shell and the top of the frame to visually compare whether this excess 3 or 4 mm was going to be a problem. It appeared to not be a problem. I then started looking harder for the TCS K1DR-NC. I found one behind some other decoders. It was a dollar cheaper. Why I did not get it was that it looked like I was going to have to wrestle the motor clips off the existing light board just to use it, while the Digitrax one came with it's one motor clips. The extra dollar seemed like a good way of avoiding having to pry and possibly de-solder motor clips from the existing board. I got home, carefully opened the decoder so I could get it out of the bag and really compare it to the stock light board. I took the light board off at which point the motor clips popped off on their own. It turns out that I could have probably very easily saved a dollar and gotten the K1D4-NC but with the price of gas the return trip isn't worth it so I went ahead and installed my Digitrax decoder. It was very easy and fully outlined in the instructions, possibly the easiest "drop in" decoder I have ever done. I tested it and it worked just fine, re-programmed to the road number, 1776, just fine, and runs just fine. I have been pleased with my various Digitrax and TCS decoders. Adam
Thanks! I'm trying to stay with Digitrax decoders for all my locos (except sound equipped units) as I'd like to use transponding on my next layout.
One potential issue I have noticed. The decoder light is much brighter than the stock board. I am thinking that perhaps I need to fiddle with the little baffle behind the cab window that keeps the light from shining out all the cab windows.
