Cheap is a relative word. A few questions too. what is your budget? Are you wanting to paint or just weather your N scale locomotives. I use the Badger 150 extensively, in fact just got done using it. It comes in a bunch of different sets and cost range around $89.00 to $99.00 depending on the set. It is a dual action, internal mix airbrush perfect for the locomotives I paint for myself and others. Let us know what your budget and plans are, there are a few of us in here that are always willing to bring another airbrusher into the fold!
Unless you are a tight wad like me! I ended up taking a compressor out of an old refridgerator. I have a regulator and water seperator plumbed onto an old propane tank. I think the whole thing cost me less than $40!
If you are interested, I have some NEW, never been opened Testors airbrushes that I would sell for a reasonable price.
Here's an badger 150 with compressor for $200 at amazon. Amazon.com: Airbrush Depot Kit Badger 150-7 Double-Action Siphon Feed Airbrush Kit With TC-20 Compressor: Arts, Crafts Sewing They also have the badger 150 alone for less than $60. The 150 is a very good airbrush that give professional results. I would stay away from the testors. Daryl
Please keep in mind that practice is necessary to get good results with an airbrush, no matter how expensive the airbrush may be. This is not an excuse to go cheap - as a matter of fact, if you are not experienced, you would be better off with a more expensive airbrush. This way, you will be more certain that your unacceptable results are your own fault, rather than the fault of the airbrush.
I would second what Daryl says, Stay away from the Testor/Azteks. I had them for years and was frustrated with them. Pasche, Badger and Iwata are all good airbrushes.
It may be a good idea to find out what's supported well locally with spare parts, etc. In my town, Paasche, Badger, and Iwata are all well supported. I can go get spare parts for any of these if needed. I own two Badger airbrushes - Badger Anthem 155 and also a side-feed model - and I have been satisfied with them. I have a Harbor Freight double-action, too. I would say it's okay but not great - basically a glorified rattle-can substitute, but I got it for about 7 bucks or something so I can't complain too loudly. I used it for spraying large areas where I just need to lay down color and control is not important.
So we've got a beat-up old compressor in the garage. It's a Sears 1/2 HP Oil-less Piston Paint Sprayer according to the plate on the side. Would this be a viable compressor for use with an airbrush, or is it going to be too archaic?
An airbrush doesn't care where the compressed air comes from. So yes your compressor should work. One thing you WILL have to do though is put a regulator on it to drop your air prressure down to 18-25 PSI and also add a water seperator.
From my experience...as long as you have a 'holding tank' for the air...and are NOT just working off the compressor head pressure anything will work. Working straight off the head pressure will give you spikes and valleys in the working pressure (especially on piston compressors). YES...you will see those spikes and valleys in your finished painted surface...JMO. .
These all come from TCP in San Diego. Check their web site. They have a vast array of airbrushes and compressors. TCP Global - Quality Service Since 1974 On another note, watch the small tank less compressors. Some have a tendency to "pulse" the air. This is not good when you are spraying. Compressors with tanks cost a little more but will give you "Steady air" which is important. I bought a Campbell Hausfield compressor with a tank for $69.00 at Target. One small problem, Noise. It was so loud I had to put it in my back yard and run a long hose to the brush. I took it back the next day. The less expensive compressors are loud. There are very quiet compressors, but they are expensive. Iwata and Silent Air make quiet compressors. Some people use a tank of compressed air or nitrogen. Cheap, quiet, steady air supply. Lots to consider. I have a Badger 160, but most of the time use an Iwata HP-CS. I have a quiet Iwata compressor. (Small and quiet. I travel with it.) Keep asking questions. There is a lot of airbrush and painting information available on TB.
Don't laugh, but a few guys that produce some high end weathering work swear by this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html For $15.00 you can screw it up royally and not feel bad about it. Decent small used compressors come up cheap on ebay a lot. (anywhere from $20-$40) but they have issues as mentioned above. Also I understand that getting a moisture trap for the air hose is essential to pain free painting. Hard to pass up a $60-$70 total investment, even if you can outgrow it once you get good or decide to use it more then occasionally
George, not your opinion, a fact. A holding tank is a must. Years ago when I first started I wondered why I did not have good results with fine areas. The pulse from the piston on the compressor transfers to the spray pattern like George has said. Not as big of a deal with larger stuff but a pain with N scale. And yes, a lot of guys have used larger (non hobby) compressors successfully, just run a regulator and a moisture trap. Also, if you spray with acrylics, thin per the instructions if needed, spray with a medium needle (#3) and LOW PSI. I spray at 16 - 18 PSI and have painted five locomotives in a row with zero spitting. Depending on the acrylic any thing over 25 PSI and the paint will dry up on the tip. And do wear a respirator if you are spraying acrylics without a spray booth sucking the over spray away. I have said for years that people who breath in acrylic particles are slowly killing themselves. Acrylic paint will collect in your lungs.
My buget- Less than $100, maybe around $50 Use- paint locos and weather, but mostly weather, I hope that answers some questions.
I plan on stopping by Harbor Freight Tools and getting one of those tomorrow to see if it's any good. I am rather new to airbrushing and after some bad experiences with a Paasche starter kit, I could use a break. Hopefully this will be the break I need to restore my faith in cheap goods lol.
Here's a trick. Pick up some beading wire from a craft shop. This wire fits exactly into the hole of a medium nozzle of the Paasche air brush (probably others). You can use this to remove the built-up acrylic plaque that will mess up your paint jobs. Run the hole through gently and the gun will work like new!
