A major current goal of mine is to establish a reasonably fair (that is, no being easy on a model because it's old) comparison of the running qualities of locomotives in different scales made in different countries in different time periods. That is, I wish there was something like http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/locos.html for other scales and countries. For the moment, though, I'm just asking one specific question of that. The Marklin 0-6-0T is ubiquitous in Z. Being one of the smallest powered chassis available, it's long been a popular basis for Z and Nn3 conversions. I don't hear of so many based on their diesel switcher http://www.zscale.org/articles/pictures/fivepole_gearpuller0.jpg but, being of similar design and the same vintage, I'll assume it runs similarly (correct me if that's wrong). How well does the 0-6-0T run? You can use N scale locomotives as a comparison, but some comparisons aren't valid. "Runs like a Bachmann" - does that mean a Turbotrain or a Spectrum 2-8-0? Or you can specify operating characteristics. Most importantly: What is the lowest speed a factory-stock 0-6-0T can sustain? Is it steady at that speed? Can it cross plastic-frog switches at that speed? And state the age of your 0-6-0T if you know it. I know they got a new motor around 2000, and I'm particularly interested in knowing how well the older version ran. That is, how good of switchers did Z have in the 1970s?
I had 2 Marklin z scale locomotives (a 2-6-0, and a 4-6-2) both ran for about 3 years. then they both just quit working. This was in the early 90's. I never could figure out why. The 4-6-2 handled the switches and curves well but the 2-6-0 would stall on the switches. By comparison, My 3 Micro-trains diesels ran great. I had no problems with them for as long as I owned them. Hope this helps.
The 0-6-0 is hard to define because there is a difference between 3 pole versus 5 pole motor and each has one axle (center) raised from track so it only has 4 wheels on the track. I do not see much difference in diesel versus steam but I only have one old diesel 3 pole motor versionand several converted 0-6-0 5 pole versionsin Nn3 with GHQ pewter conversions. The more weight they have the better they run and the better the throttle, the better they run. most switches now in Z have metal frog and power routing to the frog based on which point rail is in contact with rail. So with a Joeger or Mendvend throttle you can make them move slowly but they re not going to perform like an GP35 from Micro Trains. In short there are too many variables to say that no matter which 0-6-0 you put on which track with which throttle that you can say it will run like this. With my Jjoeger throttle and a GHQ conversion on a 0-6-0 I can make it creep along so you hardly see it move with the 5 pole motor, but can I walk away and find it still crawling along on its own after an hour probably not. But, I can get it running at 30 scale mph and leave it towing a coupler of cars and come back in hour and find it still chugging along. Would I use for switching no but I would use my K28's for that or a Japnese D51. and if I put two of the 2 0-6-0's together they will run pretty dependably, but I wouldn't bet on them not stopping at a crawl.
Marklin engines were shipped with a certain lube on the gears. Only problem was the grease turns into glue and will lock up the power train. Take it apart and ultra sound the axles. Dry everything and use the correct lube and they should run fine again.
Long story short, how well the 0-6-0 runs depends on the controller you use. Forget about a marklin power supply, they are the worse. Jorgers and snail speed type work well and get desired results. I use a gaugemaster with mine and the results are stunning. Creeps with almost no stalling. I say almost because when it gets humid, no trains run well without the dehumidifier on. With my setup, I'd say they run very much like the new bachman 0-6-0 in N. The latest versions with the improved tender pickup and blackend wheels. Not quite a kato or spectrum, because there are no flywheels but pretty good. Now if you run a deisel, the AZL GP 7 runs as good as any in N, with the MT sd 40 being on the same level both with any type of power supply.
From some of the responses, I can see I didn't really get my primary question across. It may be almost impossible to answer, but... What was the earliest point in the history of Z scale at which it was possible to perform reliable walking-pace switching with an out-of-the-box locomotive, track, power pack and throttle? So how well an old locomotive runs on a modern power and control system isn't too relevant.
From my experience with the Marklin power pack I believe the answer is never. All the "vintage" power packs I've dealt will only start supplying power at 3 volts. On the otherhand every Marklin loco I've seen will start moving around 2-2.5 volts. So at the lowest voltage from the power pack, the engine will go directly from 0 to about 10 scale mph. Without a modern power pack I don't think you can get down to a walking-pace speed.
At the risk of starting a flame-war, to answer your specific question, the answer is... never. Your key words... "perform reliable"... "walking-pace switching"... "out-of-the box locomotive AND track AND power-pack AND throttle". Hasn't happened... yet. MAYBE possible with Rokuhan's future loco releases combined with their track system and power-pack/throttle. Oh, wait... I forgot switching. Not with Rokuhan. So... as others have already stated with their in-depth experiances... you're not going to find a "correct" answer.
early in 2006 when I received my first Micro trains GP35 and my Joeger throttle, the product review in MR of September of 2006 they claimed the slowest sustainable speed was 9.18 scale MPH at 3 bolts and .2 amp http://www.micro-trains.com/PR_z gp35_0906.pdf This is the first engine I tried to switch with and at first the problem was track, it was not up to snuff but by the time I had my Rokuhan roadbed track in late 2009 I had switches , trackand cars that made it possible on a reliable basis and I had converted my GP35's to DCC which worked as well as the Joeger for controlling the engine. so it was a joy to switch . I had a layout and yard using Micro Trains Roadbed trackin late 2007 and while better than Marklin for me at that time(IMHO). The early MTL switches had some gauge and some frog problems that I had to work out and I quickly converted my rolling stock to metal wheel sets and body mount couplers so by the time I built my second yard in Rokuhan road bed track I could reliably switch and that was 2009, but I am sure that some achieved this a bit earlier with Wright turnouts and Micro trains flex. while you may not accept the earlier responses they were the way it was and it made a difference what track was laid how it was laid how much attention had been paid to putting it down, who made the track and most particularly the switches and that with the controller you were using made a huge difference in performance. So yes by 2009 in my opinion if you made the right choices you could assemble a small layout and do reliable switching with off the shelf items with out doing more than pulling the track out of boxes and setting it up on a table top, connecting the controller and putting a micro trains engine and cars on the track and start switching, it isn't going to happen as you have to know about the couplers and get the under track magnet and install it to make switching possible. I am not sure that is the sort of answer you want but I do not think you can just walk in off the street to a hobby shop and buy any Z scale items and get good results without spending some time with the scale and learning what works and what does does not so it is not buy a train set from local supplier and you can start switching like you can with some starter sets in other scales .
As others have stated, can you switch with a standard marklin power supply and the 0-6-0? No. However, with the right controller like the Jorger delux yes. I might add very well. I think the big question really is the power supply. I have an extensive N scale collection and comparing N to Z is impossible. A kato mike runs like a Kato mike on any power supply in N. In Z it is different! You might have a locomotive that you think is pure junk...however, bring it to my layout with Jorger delux controller and gaugemasters, you might see your jaw drop. Let me put it to you this way...using the right controllers in Z can make a locomotive do some amazing things. The best way I can explain it to you is this. Imagine the old bachman mikado that came out way back in the day. Remember how jerky and junky it was? Well that is like Z steammers. Now imagine that same loco running like a kato mike or the bachman spectrum connie...that is what happens to that same said locomotive in Z when using the proper controller! It it freaky to witness! I tell you, when I got the Jorger controllers several years back, I couldn't beleive it. Jaw dropping difference. I hope this helps. It is all about the controller in Z.
I do confirm... Beeing in Europe I found easier to stick to Passmann's controller rather than the stuff available in the US (Zthek, etc). As Passmann's power supply allows very low voltages it's a real pleasure to watch my Z scale locos creep at a speed lower than a scale walking man... With my power routing Wright turnouts I'm definitly able to perform switching. Dom
