I'm new to this and have few questions, please advice. Last x'mas I built my first layout using Bachmann HO EZ tracks. This year I want to change the layout as I find the EZ tracks limits me but I also don't want to jmp in too fast. Is Atlas flex track hard to use? I know it requires a roadbed, but does it always need to be soldered? Can different brands of engines be run on Atlas flex track or is it only Atlas? Also once you have the flex track in place can it be removed and stored? I have 2 engines, Santa fe FT-A and GP40 and last year GP40 was easy to operate and ran great but the FT-A seem to lack power, always ran slow. Is one type better than the other? If so which brand/model are better to buy? If you want the outter track to be elevated all the way, not climbing and coming down, I want it to run at a higher level than the inner track, what do I have to use to elevate and to lay the track on? Thank you
Hard to use will have different meanings since it is a relative term across the range of abilities and experience, even with tools. Flex track, to me, is relatively easy to use. However, it takes some getting used to just as most things about the hobby do. Best thing to do would be to buy five or six lengths and play with them. Find out what happens when you curve a length, and note how much linear or axial displacement there is on the sliding rail. That will have to be removed at some point, but many of us insert the length into the next section of track's ties. That way, you strengthen the joint on the curve. Of course, it means the associated sliding rail in the new piece is displaced by about the same amount. Does it need to be soldered? Yes....or no. With brand new joiners, clean ones that are not splayed from handling, and with clean rail tips, you should be fine for a while. The problem lies with time and with contaminants against the inner surface of the joiner and on the surfaces of the rail inside the joiner. If they are covered with glue, dust, and paint, you can severely impact the transmission of electricity that the metal joiners are meant to impart to the joint. We get around that two ways: soldering the joiners or soldering feeders on either side of the joint, thus relegating the joint solely to a mechanical holder. Unlike proprietary tracks, such as Marklin's, any HO two-rail tracks will be fine for any NMRA compliant engine. So, you can operate BLI steamers and Genesis diesels on Atlas and Micro-Engineering and Kato tracks, even Peco's. Your engines probably ran slow due to a number of reasons, but chiefly it is likely to be the result of low voltages the further away the motor is from the insertion point for the electrical leads. That's why we use a heavier wire bus running parallel to the rails, and we solder thinner feeder wires between the bus and the rails every few feet. This practically guarantees robust voltage where you need it. For elevated tracks, you need risers, or pylons, every foot or so with at least 1/2" plywood atop each riser running in the axis of the right of way you desire. Means cutting strips of plywood to the shape of your track plan and screwing/gluing it atop short risers bolted to an open frame. It's a bit of work, but people do it. Just think twice about the arrangement you are contemplating...what impact will it have on visibility and enjoyment from your operating position, and consider reach and access...will you be able to reach safely and comfortably to take up items or to fix problems. Elbows have a way of leveling finely detailed and fragile models.
Having just started a few years ago myself, I might be able to help. I'm using Atlas HO code 100 Flex track. When it comes to compatibly, almost every make will run on it so long as its DC or DCC compatible and besides some Marklin track, no track is proprietary to locomotives so your locomotives will be fine so long as you don't kink the rail or make the radius to tight. Its one of those things where you measure 2-3 times and cut once. It also helps to gently prebend the rail before laying it. Some people like to solider their track, some stacker the sliding rail and solider it, some don't, it just depends on what and how you want to do it. There are an endless number of ways to form and lay flex track so find what works for you. Because my layout needs to be torn down, I can't solider it so I staggered it. Some people glue their track down, but for you I think you might want to ballast it and just nail or screw it down. As for locos, I run Athearn, Bachmann, BLI, and a few other misc makes. Just find a make you like and go with it. For me, Athearn is a good buy for the money and run well so long as I avoid the noisy model years. For track elevation, its best to cut the route out of plywood for best results, especially when doing curves. Most clubs use atlas flex behind the scenes for unseen grades that run over plywood corkscrews. This also might help, http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?128248-HO-flex-rail-issues&highlight=
Thank you for explaning things to me. I visited a train store over the weekend and a worker was very helpful and explained things. So I would really like to use Atlas flex track, they recomemded going with code 100 track oppose to 83. I can buy the cork for road bed, said I can glue the road bed and then nail the track to the road bed. I think I'll be able to handle this. As for elevating, please tell me if this will work. I'm planning on buying risers from Woodland Scenic, glue them to the plywood, then glue the road bed with track on to the risers. Will this work? Thank you
For cutting the track I'd use a cutter and not a razor saw. Just clip and file smooth and youi're ready to go. I prefer to pin my track with tacks and glue it with white glue, you can always soak it off later if you want to change it. As to the locos, It all depends on what model of what brand as far as quality. You would do well to get a cheap set of jewelers screwdrivers and practice loco repair on one of the locos. Over time all locos need cleaning and lubing. Good luck!
I had an 8x12 layout that used mostly flex track and due to space issues I had to cut it down to 4x8 which meant redoing most of the layout. I was able to use all the flex track to build my new layout. It took some trial and error but came out good and now I don't think I would use anything else. I glue a cork bed down to set the track on then I tack the track to that. I don't solder the track together either, just use normal joiners.
