OK, Code 55 folks, what did you use to actuate your turnouts? I have and will not be using Caboose Ind. ground throws, as they are grossly out of scale. I would prefer to do minimal scenery excavation, as the scene is nearly done. What do you suggest? It needs to look actual scale size, or close. I prolly should have done this before I scenicked and ballasted.... I have seen and like http://www.telusplanet.net/public/crowley/ground_throws.htm, but the upthrust throwbar is not as appealing. I have ahigh ballast shoulder, too, not sure how to work that.
Hemi, I struggled with the same challenge and decided to use Tam Valley servos... If you find a clean manual fix, I'd like to see it.Regards, Otto
I have been thinking about this, too. I am currently planning on using the Miniatronics micro switches like was detailed in Steve Lohr's article in the Jan/Feb 2011 NSR. That might not work for you if you do not want to do any digging.
I used slide switches for my ground throws. I think that's the same concept of the article Tad pointed out. The ones I used are probably still too bulky for your likings, but smaller ones are available and you could always cut down the switch nub to a more visual friendly profile. Slide switch ground throw installation on Thunder Ridge: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...idge-A-Freelanced-Focus-on-Scenery/page43#423
The switches that were used in the article were these: 38-50-04 The ones that I got to use were these: 38-100-05 I got them because the switch nubs were about half the length of the others and I thought that they would look better, like Mark mentioned. The contacts are placed differently than the ones in the article so the mount would have to be made differently than is shown in the article. I am thinking a peice of channel instead of the angle that the author used.
I am going to go with Tam Valley Servos as well. Have not figured out how I will indicate the throw position though....
You can use either the Tam Valley Depot pushbuttons (two types) or a microswitch attached to the side of the servo. I used the double sided actuator arm on the servo and screwed one of the supplied screws through one end to operate a single pole microswitch arm for frog polarity (the other end throws the turnout) and their yellow LED push buttons. If you want 'real time' indication of turnout position, a double pole microswitch can be used, one pole for frog polarity and the other indication, and use an alternative push non indicated button arrangement.
I am planning on using Dan Crowley's method. I don't think the throw bar up turned will be that bad, and the price is cheap, cheap. But that is my opinion. Mark method looks appealing also. How well does it work in yard and industrial areas?
I got it! The RS-3 Spring! (Ridiculously Simple, Model #3) I read about this years ago, and I used it on my wife's Z layout. Piano wire, bent like show below, inserted into a stock tie, and the throwbar tie. I might be abl to hide it under the throwbar instead of atop it. I might cover it with a switch machine mechanism to hide it:
The throwbar and stock ties next to the throwbar are drilled to accept a spring bent like the photo shows, the spring is inserted intot he holes, and the slight tension will have a "snap" action that will hold the points in position. They act like a switch machine, but the throwing action is done manually by gently pressing the points in either direction. Pardon the poor, low-tech graphics, they were done at 5AM after the idea hit me. I hope that explains it better. The switch machine cover doesn't have to be big. The whole spring thing will be just about as long as the width of two Atlas c55 turnout ties. I plan to use whatever wire I have on hand that will hold shape, and tension, but not be too grossly noticable.
I actually have a photo of the RS-3 spring installed on some Z scale turnouts--the ties are so fragile, I added a backing plate of brass to reinforce it. A picture says a thousand words. These RS-3 springs were installed on the underside.
Over center spring I was looking for a similar solution in a previous thread. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...Code-55-turnouts-to-work-like-Peco&highlight= The solution I liked was over center spring, it's a spring to make the turnouts flick like a Peco. Check out the video http://rcandamoonpie.blogspot.com/2010/01/over-center-springs-for-atlas-code-55.html Greg
the springs are great. unless you want to route power. I'm going with the micro-switch setup myself.. found some small switches on the bay: not thrilled with how they look, but they're smaller than the caboose throws. I'm wondering if I can epoxy those fake switch throws from ME on top of the switch to hide it a bit. But I don't think it would stand up to the constant pressure and movement of a 1:1 finger
Just thinking out loud here looking at your picture. If you were able to mount the switch up a little higher, you could drill the hole for the wire right at the base of the switch. I don't know what kind of plastic it is, but maybe you could take a file to it to give it a little shape, resembling a switch stand. You could also drill a hole in the top to insert an indicator, perhaps a painted sequin glued to a wire, similar to Dan Crowley's method mentioned in the first post. I have also seen those switches with a longer toggle, which may actually be more conducive to giving it some shape... Again, just thinking out loud. I haven't got a switch to try it myself, but would be interested if you think it would work.
Here's a couple: http://www.humpyard.com/ http://www.handlaidtrack.com/BullFrog-Manual-Turnout-Control-Unassembled-p/bf-0002.htm
